I have an 84 Cadillac thats been run 1 time I was thinking of running my 21.5 in. Would I be better off using my old a-stamp car or should I crack into my new re-release car? I have another never run a-stamp 6-gear and never run stealth gear car and my old first stealth gear car (would this one be the best option?) Just looking for a durable car to buzz around the yard with (dont need to break the land speed record).
keep the Orig and run the re re, cheaper parts compared the orig, but when I got my old graphite team car up and running, never broke a thing though, but parts wise its better to run the newer one as you will never get orig parts cheap. Or if you have a beat up 6 gear goldie, might as well run em then when parts brake, you can always replace em with new re re parts. much cheaper.
“It is more shameful to distrust our friends than to be deceived by them.”
― Confucius
Can they take a lickin' and keep on tickin'? I was thinking about getting one for my kid for Christmas. He can wheel an R/C very well, so it's not gonna be hammered on. I'm just looking for some input.
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Why not? Do the Team kit...if he's a good driver, as you say, it should be an awesome father/son deal. Dig up some older stock motors and learn him about brushes, oiling bushings, etc while you're at it. If it was a few years from now there wouldn't...
i was wondering if you guys could give me an idea about the durability of shapeways plastic in the usa. been thinking of geting some of niki's parts but my car will be raced. durability will play a big roll in if i buy any.
Thanks Geo
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Probably a good option for anyone in europe.
Paul knows the requirements of rc and is probably more willing to communicate about print orientation etc. than shapeways or materialize.
I'm actually thinking about handing over my works 91 suspension...
How time flies, NIX91 Masami replica has been around for a few years now.
As far as I remember, NIX91 is the first semi-mass production car with 3D printed parts.
I bet many has been driven around.
Can some of us here share their experience...
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They are weaker than the molded parts that come in mass produced kits. Very brittle when cold. They flex some and don't keep their geometry under load very well.
For the guys that have an opinion/experience, how did the aluminum CVD bones (RC10/B2/B3 sized) hold up back in the day relative to the hardened steel or shiny ones? Now that the bones are longer for modern cars, MIP doesn't make them out of...
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I've acquired a set of the aluminum versions by mistake (I thought they were HG ti's). When I had them ID'd, I was told they were typically used by the dirt oval guys not so much in off-road so I haven't tried to run with them in the B3.
Does anyone use whitened parts on theyre runners or just purely for the shelf?
I know there can be strength issues with the white nylon parts sometimes as it is even thou i havent had any concerns as of yet!
Does the peroxide treatment radically...
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no we don't but we have spatula city. the rest of the world is jealous!
At our little backyard track, we don't have shelf queens. If it is capable of running it will run. One of my old race buddies and Brother has an original XX that I am sure is just sitting on a shelf/box somewhere around his house. If parts are...
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Most parts are available, except diff gears. They are a bit rare to come by, don't slip the diff. Stuff like the the bumpers that wear fast or front arms that break often, tend to be higher in price to replace.
1911Colt, 
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