Almost new build, YR-F2
- paul1600
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Almost new build, YR-F2
Hi guys this is a kit i got on ebay few weeks ago was started by the guy i got it from & not finshed, the car you see in photo is one a picked up a while ago with a few Fasttrax Millennium parts, so i'm looking to build up the new one with the Millennium bits (from that car) & the Suzuki parts plus the titamium screw set & aluminum parts i have & waiting on.
Once i finsh this one will build a standard one from what i have left over & make her a runner.
Once i finsh this one will build a standard one from what i have left over & make her a runner.
- EvolutionRevolution
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
You'll notice that you can't use the Team Suzuki c-hubs and Fasttrax Millenium alloy arms together, unless you modify the arms. The c-hubs will work with the original arms if you shave a bit of material off the arms.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Thanks EvolutionRevolution yeah have not got that far in fact not started build, waiting on some parts.
I have the Team Suzuki arms as well so i take it they will not work with c-hubs, if not will use the c-hubs on my YZ10 build.
Will start soon on build with photos, really looking forward to it, been a while for me to play around with my RC cars.
I have the Team Suzuki arms as well so i take it they will not work with c-hubs, if not will use the c-hubs on my YZ10 build.
Will start soon on build with photos, really looking forward to it, been a while for me to play around with my RC cars.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Well here are some photo's of what i've done it's not much but found some time to start.
Took the donor car apart & played around with the steering linkage, found some noce blue alloy ball ends & spacers i think look cool.
Some alloy parts i got with the car came with these kingpins(on left of photo) but as you can see from the photo the collar is to tall on the alloy one compared to the standed yokomo ones on the right, not sure what they would be for.
Can anyone tell me about these diff halfs? I'm thinking they might be Fasttrax Millennium parts?
Anyway will try to find more time soon to build my car.
Took the donor car apart & played around with the steering linkage, found some noce blue alloy ball ends & spacers i think look cool.
Some alloy parts i got with the car came with these kingpins(on left of photo) but as you can see from the photo the collar is to tall on the alloy one compared to the standed yokomo ones on the right, not sure what they would be for.
Can anyone tell me about these diff halfs? I'm thinking they might be Fasttrax Millennium parts?
Anyway will try to find more time soon to build my car.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Just somemore of what i've done.
All titamium screw set & aluminum parts (apart from the pivot balls in the 4 pivot sockets & screws that hold them together), was really lucky to find the long screws in titamium in my box of parts.
All titamium screw set & aluminum parts (apart from the pivot balls in the 4 pivot sockets & screws that hold them together), was really lucky to find the long screws in titamium in my box of parts.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Really enjoying myself building this car.
Im on the look out for 90mm titanium turnbuckles, if anyone has any ideas were i might find some could you please PM.
That's all folks.
Im on the look out for 90mm titanium turnbuckles, if anyone has any ideas were i might find some could you please PM.
That's all folks.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Yeah you are right EvolutionRevolution they don't work even the Team Suzuki are don't work. Saying that the c-hubs i have are the 7 degree of caster ones TS-17. Are these the same as you have or the other ones i've seen?EvolutionRevolution wrote:You'll notice that you can't use the Team Suzuki c-hubs and Fasttrax Millenium alloy arms together, unless you modify the arms. The c-hubs will work with the original arms if you shave a bit of material off the arms.
[/quote]
- EvolutionRevolution
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
I think those c-hubs exist in 10 degree versions, too, but those likely have the same problem. I used the plastic arms on mine.
The diff halves are likely by Fastrax, by the way. Also looks like the turnbuckle for the steering set-up you got is the right length - mine was too short.
There's also alloy bulkheads by Fasttrax Millenium, which make it possible to attach the front motor mount to the bulkheads with two screws. This fixes a weak point on the YR-F2 (makes it less likely that the motor moves in a front impact). I think there's likely also an optional front body mount that attaches to these bulkheads...
Could you measure the thickness of the carbon parts? I get the impression there's some variation there (I have two different topdecks, one thin, one thick).
The diff halves are likely by Fastrax, by the way. Also looks like the turnbuckle for the steering set-up you got is the right length - mine was too short.
There's also alloy bulkheads by Fasttrax Millenium, which make it possible to attach the front motor mount to the bulkheads with two screws. This fixes a weak point on the YR-F2 (makes it less likely that the motor moves in a front impact). I think there's likely also an optional front body mount that attaches to these bulkheads...
Could you measure the thickness of the carbon parts? I get the impression there's some variation there (I have two different topdecks, one thin, one thick).
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Yeah measured the carbon parts & you're right about the upper deck.
Chassis 2.5mm
Upper deck 1.5mm & 2.0mm
Link plate 1.5mm
Rear sup arms 2.0mm
Diff mount plate 3.0mm
I measured the 3 cars i have & found 2 upper decks at 1.5mm & one at 2.0mm. Why do you think that is? Maybe there supplier ran out of 1.5mm carbon one day.
Yes would dearly love to get the Fasttrx diff bulkheads, yeah seen the second hole in the motor mount for it.
Have you seen any photos of the optional body mount?
You can see the drive shafts i have, they don't really work with the white diff there to long so they just fit inside the diff halves, for a shelf queen (like this one will be) they look cool but you would not get the suspension travel on a runner.
Shame about the c-hubs not fitting.
Here is were i'm up to, about to start building thr shocks, still on the hunt for 90mm titanium turnbuckles then to find some wheels.
Chassis 2.5mm
Upper deck 1.5mm & 2.0mm
Link plate 1.5mm
Rear sup arms 2.0mm
Diff mount plate 3.0mm
I measured the 3 cars i have & found 2 upper decks at 1.5mm & one at 2.0mm. Why do you think that is? Maybe there supplier ran out of 1.5mm carbon one day.
Yes would dearly love to get the Fasttrx diff bulkheads, yeah seen the second hole in the motor mount for it.
Have you seen any photos of the optional body mount?
You can see the drive shafts i have, they don't really work with the white diff there to long so they just fit inside the diff halves, for a shelf queen (like this one will be) they look cool but you would not get the suspension travel on a runner.
Shame about the c-hubs not fitting.
Here is were i'm up to, about to start building thr shocks, still on the hunt for 90mm titanium turnbuckles then to find some wheels.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Just found these in the box i got my car in, part numbers for some of the Fastrax millennium bits.
- EvolutionRevolution
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Yokomo updated the car at least once. There's also two different Yokomo motor mounts: the first one only screws onto the front bulkhead with a single screw, while the second one wraps around the layshaft to fix the aforementioned issue with front impacts. Furthermore, there's two different hinge pin sets (regular steel and blackened) and two different layshaft pulleys (a soft silver one and a hard black one - if you have the latter, use it).paul1600 wrote:Yeah measured the carbon parts & you're right about the upper deck.
Chassis 2.5mm
Upper deck 1.5mm & 2.0mm
Link plate 1.5mm
Rear sup arms 2.0mm
Diff mount plate 3.0mm
I measured the 3 cars i have & found 2 upper decks at 1.5mm & one at 2.0mm. Why do you think that is? Maybe there supplier ran out of 1.5mm carbon one day.
Unfortunately I don't know which top deck goes with which version of the car.
Unfortunately not.Yes would dearly love to get the Fasttrx diff bulkheads, yeah seen the second hole in the motor mount for it.
Have you seen any photos of the optional body mount?
It could be that they need to be used with the thin spacers that Yokomo also used on the YR-4 (these go between the outer bearing and the drive hex). One of my F2's has a set of titanium rear axles (no clue who made that, sorry...) that also use the spacers and bring out the rear to 190mm. Yokomo touring cars were always "ultra-narrow" (180-185 mm) compared to other touring cars.You can see the drive shafts i have, they don't really work with the white diff there to long so they just fit inside the diff halves, for a shelf queen (like this one will be) they look cool but you would not get the suspension travel on a runner.
Such turnbuckles do exist (my best F2 has some nice Ti ones with square cross section - might be Yokomo).Shame about the c-hubs not fitting.
Here is were i'm up to, about to start building thr shocks, still on the hunt for 90mm titanium turnbuckles then to find some wheels.
Finding both wide and narrow (either 24mm + 21mm or 27mm + 24mm) wheels in the same design is difficult these days (or perhaps I don't look hard enough...).
- LTO_Dave
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
I see you found the part number for the delrin diff halves. I seem to remember that Integy also made M60 composite c-drives for the YR-F2 a few years ago when I ordered some for my YR4-M2. Mine are yellow, but the YR-4 and I think the M2 Type J c-drives were white like the pulleys Integy sells.
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
EvolutionRevolution I did'nt know there were two different motor mounts, yeah i have the harded hinge pin set new & a set came with one of my cars (the thing is the harded set would not fit in the Fastrax front arms had to use the black ones on the other car), this is the only black shaft i have.
I know what you're talking about with the spacers, it's the drive shafts are long were they come out from the diff half to the inside bearing they push into the diff half & bottom out if you look at the photo from a couple of posts ago you will see the shaft length from standed.
Think you're turnbuckles are Yokomo ones, titanium rear axles would be nice to have.
Yeah not started looking for wheels yet.
LTO_Dave wow it's cool to know that other companys made after maket parts for Yokomo's & i can hunt for these parts as well, cool YR-4
Here are some photos of my other car, did'nt feel like building shocks so played around with second car.
I know what you're talking about with the spacers, it's the drive shafts are long were they come out from the diff half to the inside bearing they push into the diff half & bottom out if you look at the photo from a couple of posts ago you will see the shaft length from standed.
Think you're turnbuckles are Yokomo ones, titanium rear axles would be nice to have.
Yeah not started looking for wheels yet.
LTO_Dave wow it's cool to know that other companys made after maket parts for Yokomo's & i can hunt for these parts as well, cool YR-4
Here are some photos of my other car, did'nt feel like building shocks so played around with second car.
- bully
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Nice mate.. Perth boy and a datto fan ay.. My mates all had the dattos when we were growing up, cool little cars. Not my cup of tea but fun with the right donk.. You racing rc in Perth mate?
- paul1600
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Re: Almost new build, YR-F2
Gday bully yeah love my dattos have 8 of them.
Havent raced in over 10 years but been thinking of starting up again, was racing off road in Rockingham when the club was there & raced interclubs with my Losi's then YZ10, then raced at Bayswater onroad at the track there with my pancar RC10ls(o man love that car) when i started down there in 94-95 was a nitro track then they started letting electric car down there, i raced once in with the 1/10 nitro 15min race with my RC10ls, they came in every 5 min to refuel i came in to change battrey packs (mate did it for me i stayed on the drivers stand) they would pass me down the straight but i would pass them on the infield bends & won the race really pissed off some nitro guys that day, have the trophie in the shed.
Raced at Shenton park was the last time i raced on carpet which is nolonger.
Havent raced in over 10 years but been thinking of starting up again, was racing off road in Rockingham when the club was there & raced interclubs with my Losi's then YZ10, then raced at Bayswater onroad at the track there with my pancar RC10ls(o man love that car) when i started down there in 94-95 was a nitro track then they started letting electric car down there, i raced once in with the 1/10 nitro 15min race with my RC10ls, they came in every 5 min to refuel i came in to change battrey packs (mate did it for me i stayed on the drivers stand) they would pass me down the straight but i would pass them on the infield bends & won the race really pissed off some nitro guys that day, have the trophie in the shed.
Raced at Shenton park was the last time i raced on carpet which is nolonger.
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