First time in track with T2, need some help sorting this out

[pumpkinfish]

Drove my T2 this past weekend at my local indoor clay track for the first time since "refurbishing" it. Truck was good on straights and jumping, but turns were a nightmare! The first issue is my rear universals were popping out when I drove it hard (my B2 did this as well). When I inspected the rear, the universals appear to be sitting in the outdrive at the very edge, but the pin is fully in the outdrive slot. I thought the ballcups may be stretching with the force from all the traction, so I installed brand-new B4 low friction cups (all the shop had). Didn't make a difference. If I put anymore limiters in the rear shocks, the arms will be almost flat. I have 30wt oil f/r with blue f and green r springs. Rear shock has 2 limiters. Is that enough?

Also, the truck had a major push. I had to jam the brakes on and slide the turns. Maybe it was me being used to the B5m, but I do not remember having to hammer the trucks like this. I was thinking the truck was designed for a 6 cell nimh pack which weighs roughly 400g and I'm using a 210g shorty pack. Should I move to a full size pack and add weight to the front bulkhead? Any other changes to try?

[DaveM]

Hi,

Do you have any shims on the axle?

If you do, move the to the inside to pull the axle in further.

Dave.

[pumpkinfish]

I forgot to mention that. I had the 6 shims as per the manual and now have them all to the rear of the hub.

[DaveM]

Hi Pumpkinfish,

Can you post some pics?

RC10th, might be on later today he is the T2 guru, he might know whats going on.

I have a 10T which does not have your problem but I am running RPM hubs and MIP CVD's.

Dave.

[RC10th]

I know the T2 drive shafts always got close to the edges of the outdrives under full droop but should not pop out.

A few simple things, make sure your drive cups are not chipped on the ends, check that you have negative camber, -2 degrees always worked well. Check for a broken rear suspension arm, I've seen them crack on one side and be able to flex enough even though they physically look fine at a glance

The T2 manual says to use 1 shim behind the hub and 5 shims on the outside, of course you could move some to the back side.

Are you using 1.32 shock shafts in 1.32 bodies? According to the manual no limiters are used.

Can you take a picture with the driveshafts level?

[pumpkinfish]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I have 5 shims behind the hub and 1 shim in front behind the roll pin. Here are the photos showing each side and each pin. I bought the truck used and didn't realize how chipped they looked until I took the photos. I should have realized it when I saw the rear arms on upside down! It wasn't pulling out every lap, but when it did, it obviously set me back while the marshall popped it back in.

Full droop









Arms Level

[DaveM]

Hi,

Looking at that it would not take much arm flex for it to come out.

Can you reduce your droop?

Or move the top shock mount inwards one hole?

What camber are you running?

I am only guessing but like RJ said new outdrives first.

Cheers, Dave.

[JK Racing]

4 pole castle motor is the issue...

I looked at my T2 and realized I still have dogbones, not universals. But no issues with them popping out. For shocks, I followed the FT T4 manual when I built mine, same piston/oil/spring. My truck turns on a dime. When I get a chance, I'll shoot some pics and advise on what my set up is. It could be better, but it is forgiving enough to keep my on the podium for the last 3 races -- Indoor clay track as well, running JC Gold Barcodes on all 4 corners, on JC Rulux spoked wheels.

Have you done the rear shock 'flip' to the rear of the tower? I noticed my truck is much more stable over the giant jumps now.

[pumpkinfish]

Thanks for the tips Joey. After a few weeks of trial and error, I have the truck setup nice. Is there a blank T2 setup sheet floating around? I couldn't find one. Anyway here is where I'm at. No bones slipping out of the drives either.

You laugh but the 4 pole may have been some of my problem. I switched to the gear in my XX4 and the truck flew level at least and not nose up. The problem then was the 6.5t sensored motor and the speed

Front:
Outside shock hole on tower
Inside hole on arm
Green Springs
#2 Pistons
30wt Assoc
0.090 spacers (three)
Arms Level
1oz. on bulkhead
-2 Camber

Rear:
Inside Top shock hole on tower (hole #3?)
Inside hole on arm
Outside camberlink hole
3* Rear Toe at arms
Black Springs
#1 Pistons
30wt Assoc
0.125 spacers (four)
Bones Level
-2 Camber

4600 Shorty pack all the way back
B5m Slipper
84t spur

I Q'd 3rd and finished 2nd. Unfortunately this will be last race for the truck for a while. I picked up a mid motor Kyosho RT6 for a really good price and couldn't resist. I'll save this truck for the VONATS this year. I'll have to take my B2 one day and get it sorted out as well.