advise needed for special build... please?

[Mr. ED]

I'm building a project that's going off the beaten path and am a little stuck: the stock XX U-J's don't reach far enough to stay in the drive cups

What I need to find is a rear axle carrier that will accept the standard XX bearings and axle but will bring the wheel inwards by about 5mm.
If possible it would also raise the wheel a bit more above the arm.
(I had some old JRX-2 carriers for the H-arm conversion at hand to try. But they raised the wheel only about 1-2 mm and their offset was identical with the XX carriers. EDIT: they could have raised the wheel more if I hadn't cut the lower mount many many years ago)

From the manual it looks like an rc10 b3 carrier might work, though it does nothing with the wheel if not lower it further into the arm...
The XXXS carrier brings the wheel higher up, but I'm not sure regarding the bearing size and it has an even bigger offset than the stock XX carriers
Any ideas are most welcome

[jwscab]

the first thing that pops into mind is the rpm truck carriers for rc10, RPM 70272, though they are discontinued now.

the second thing that pops into mind is the custom works carrier CSW3241

both raise the axle in the carrier, and are roughly centered in relation to axle and outer arm hinge pin. the custom works has two locations for the outer hinge pin.

[Mr. ED]

thanks!

I had just stumbled over the custom works parts myself and ordered a pair. Hopefully this will work out.

[mytimac]

The XXXS rear hub uses same bearing size but smaller diameter hinge pin. So that would be something to deal with if you tried that part.

Another option to keep in mind if you have the parts around is maybe converting to sliders. This will help with your driveshaft issue staying in the drive cups.
But if you don't have sliders then that could prove to be not worth the effort in acquiring financially.

If you have the sliders then all you need is A3095.
http://sabulatech.com/storefront/product.php?id_product=115

Here is picture on a XX buggy that shows how much slider length you would have to work with.

[Mr. ED]

I didn't know the xx diff came with sliders. Both the xx and xxt i got second hand had steel outdrive cups.

[mytimac]

Yeah most people don't know that it was in the bushing models.

For those who are interested and didn't already see it in the link earlier.

"With the realease of the new Double-X and Double-XT kits with bushings came a plastic differential for the Double-X transmission. This new differential is designed to use the plastic "slider" type drive shafts. This was a design that many thought was incorporated only for cost reasons, but the truth is that there are conditions in which the plastic drive shafts out-perform the dogbone type drive shafts. Once the team drivers started using the slider drive shafts, Team Losi decided to offer a conversion kit so that anyone with a Double-X transmission could try them out.
The fact that the plastic differential and outdrives are less than ½ the weight of the standard steel outdrives and dogbones makes them ideal for stock class racing. Less rotating weight results in quicker acceleration, which is important in the stock class. The sliders also work in the modified class. The biggest advantage comes when the track is extra slick, or extremely bumpy. If the track is bumpy and slick, all the better.
It will fit any Double-X or Double-X retro-fit transmission."

To be honest they should work with just about any buggy or truck that uses the A3073 Drive Cup. Which is just about everything after the XX line up until the XXX Gen II transmission.

[Mr. ED]

I actually have a bunch of un-used sliders in my traxxas collection, so I'll defintely get some to try this: but only if the custom works carriers don't work out.

For the moment I'm using different U-J's with a sleeve around the cups to stop the axles from bouncing around in them. The whole construction is metric and allows me to use 12mm hex wheels... which is pretty cool. But I think using the right dogbones/sliders will prolong the lifetime

[shoman24v]

I never understood how going with the sliding u-joint was more cost effective for the bushing model.

[mytimac]

Injection molding parts is way cheaper than machining parts like the bones if doing large runs. Plus the molds already existed for most of it.

[Mr. ED]

Got my customworks parts today. But decided to not use them after all; as I'm pretty pleased with the new solution I found in the meanwhile.
Inspired by the idea of going 'slider' I went through my stash and came up with this: composed U-J with dogbone from the XX a new cross part ( origin unknown) and a metric axle (probably Traxxas). YR-4 (Kose?) rear axle carrier and some touring car hex modified for a 5mm axle.

Pictures say more than words: