B2 "Box Art" Build
- duckhead
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B2 "Box Art" Build
All of the recent B2 action has motivated me to add a B2 to my collection. The plan is to build a box art replica and I am excited to start my first "build" thread!
I have sourced most of the necessary parts and tried to use "NOS" where possible (available). The ultimate goal will be to swap out any new items with "NOS" as it comes along.
All parts ready to be assembled:
More updates soon...
I have sourced most of the necessary parts and tried to use "NOS" where possible (available). The ultimate goal will be to swap out any new items with "NOS" as it comes along.
All parts ready to be assembled:
More updates soon...
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
So many new bits and pieces! Will enjoy watching this....
I killed an Edinger...the shame
- slotcarrod
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
I bet there is double the value of a NIB B2 in those bags! 
Looking forward to watching this build!

Looking forward to watching this build!

Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
- duckhead
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
You are probably more than correct there Rodslotcarrod wrote:I bet there is double the value of a NIB B2 in those bags!
Looking forward to watching this build!

The NIBs I am coming across (and don't get outbid on) just go to the shelf as is, I don't have the heart to disturb them, yet. I haven't been in the vintage scene very long, but I have yet to see a B2 NIB too...
->Mark
- duckhead
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
Very small update...
So as I started out last night I am already noticing quite a few differences on the couple of re-release pieces I had to purchase to make this build happen in a reasonable timeframe. On a tangent, I am now going to take my time to document the differences between the original pieces versus the re-release pieces.
To do this, I am tearing down, cleaning and rebuilding two other B2 rollers I bought. One of the two others will become a runner, not sure what the third will wind up being. All three examples are #9000 Racer Kit cars so it will be a like for like comparison hopefully.
So as I started out last night I am already noticing quite a few differences on the couple of re-release pieces I had to purchase to make this build happen in a reasonable timeframe. On a tangent, I am now going to take my time to document the differences between the original pieces versus the re-release pieces.
To do this, I am tearing down, cleaning and rebuilding two other B2 rollers I bought. One of the two others will become a runner, not sure what the third will wind up being. All three examples are #9000 Racer Kit cars so it will be a like for like comparison hopefully.
- slotcarrod
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
Your chassis and top plate are B3 btw.
Ok here is a small list of true B2 parts that are often missed
1) Top plate has no holes for sway bar. (HTF)
2) Chassis has no holes in rear for sway bar
3) Front bulkhead has only 2 holes for shock tower mount (HTF)
4) Rear suspension mounts are less material on top part where the rear screw goes and uses 4-40 screws (VHTF)
5) Slipper is the old Stealth type with bushings
6) B3 wheels look close but B2 wheels are smaller and have a larger flange on the outer part of the rim.
Front tower, f&r arms and narrow rear chassis plate, universals, castor blocks, hubs and axle, and the body. The wing had no scribes, just like CE/Team Car wing.

Ok here is a small list of true B2 parts that are often missed
1) Top plate has no holes for sway bar. (HTF)
2) Chassis has no holes in rear for sway bar
3) Front bulkhead has only 2 holes for shock tower mount (HTF)
4) Rear suspension mounts are less material on top part where the rear screw goes and uses 4-40 screws (VHTF)
5) Slipper is the old Stealth type with bushings
6) B3 wheels look close but B2 wheels are smaller and have a larger flange on the outer part of the rim.
Front tower, f&r arms and narrow rear chassis plate, universals, castor blocks, hubs and axle, and the body. The wing had no scribes, just like CE/Team Car wing.
Rod Littau
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
Slotcarrod's Rumpus Room: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=16113
25 Years of the RC10: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059
- duckhead
- Approved Member
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- Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2015 12:41 pm
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Re: B2 "Box Art" Build
Thanks Rod, that is what sent me down the rabbit hole to detail all the minute differences between the B2/B3 and even the differences in the re-release parts that may say B2 on them but really seem to be more geared towards B3 (like the top plate, etc.)
slotcarrod wrote:Your chassis and top plate are B3 btw.![]()
Ok here is a small list of true B2 parts that are often missed
1) Top plate has no holes for sway bar. (HTF)
2) Chassis has no holes in rear for sway bar
3) Front bulkhead has only 2 holes for shock tower mount (HTF)
4) Rear suspension mounts are less material on top part where the rear screw goes and uses 4-40 screws (VHTF)
5) Slipper is the old Stealth type with bushings
6) B3 wheels look close but B2 wheels are smaller and have a larger flange on the outer part of the rim.
Front tower, f&r arms and narrow rear chassis plate, universals, castor blocks, hubs and axle, and the body. The wing had no scribes, just like CE/Team Car wing.
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