17.5T stock class racer build
17.5T stock class racer build
Going to build my 1993 stealth chassis up to race in 17.5 spec racing this winter. Here is what I have to start, plus a few parts that are going to be donated from my way to expensive B4.1 build. So here is my overall plan going off a buggy I seen on here..
Will any parts from my B4 fit besides the shocks/wing mounts? Will a B4 slipper fit? Are there any lightweight parts? top shaft?
Blasted chassis - be either primered, carbon fiber wrapped bottom or powder coated an unknown color
Maybe milled as well
Stealth trans with Protek ceramic balls
Turbo Mirage body painted by me in a retro fashion
Protek titanium screw kit
AE RC10 aluminum screw kit
RPM rod ends
Lunsford turnbuckles
Avid aluminum servo mounts
Worlds suspension/steering
CVD's
Tekin RS/ Gen3 17.5 combo
JC Dirt Webs gold (spec tire)
Have AE white 2.2 wheels
Have a shorty 2s lipo v(Tunigy 4600)
Have Spectrum DX3 radio w/ Orange RX
Have Savox 1252 servo
Have B4 big bores
The build I plan to copy for the most part -
RC10 chassis and 2.2 wheels.. (all that I currently have)
My B4 I plan to part out kinda - (big bores not pictured but I do have them)
Will any parts from my B4 fit besides the shocks/wing mounts? Will a B4 slipper fit? Are there any lightweight parts? top shaft?
Blasted chassis - be either primered, carbon fiber wrapped bottom or powder coated an unknown color
Maybe milled as well
Stealth trans with Protek ceramic balls
Turbo Mirage body painted by me in a retro fashion
Protek titanium screw kit
AE RC10 aluminum screw kit
RPM rod ends
Lunsford turnbuckles
Avid aluminum servo mounts
Worlds suspension/steering
CVD's
Tekin RS/ Gen3 17.5 combo
JC Dirt Webs gold (spec tire)
Have AE white 2.2 wheels
Have a shorty 2s lipo v(Tunigy 4600)
Have Spectrum DX3 radio w/ Orange RX
Have Savox 1252 servo
Have B4 big bores
The build I plan to copy for the most part -
RC10 chassis and 2.2 wheels.. (all that I currently have)
My B4 I plan to part out kinda - (big bores not pictured but I do have them)
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
B4 top shaft and slipper fit. When you put those big bores on, note that the rear shock tower is spaced forward.
RC10 Short Arm | Novak Tempest ESC | Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T | Savox 1258 | Stealth Trans w/ Exotek Slipper Eliminator (geared 24/81)
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
- jwscab
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
I wouldn't go through the hassle of milling the chassis at all. with a shorty lipo you will still be underweight and milling takes weight away from the lowest point anyway.
- yellowdatsun
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
Honestly, you'll get killed in the 17.5 class. They run the same times as the modified class, because the guys spend a TON of time and money perfecting their cars. There's no way an RC10 can compete. It's actually easier to run the modified class, since the guys rely on the motor more than the rest of the car. The B4 can't even really compete anymore, you need a mid motor car.
You could however run it in the Novice class and have a good time.
You could however run it in the Novice class and have a good time.
- JK Racing
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
On that car, not only is the (custom) rear tower moved forward, it also has an extended front tower.
I can answer questions if you have them.
Indoor, I do struggle a bit against mid motor cars, but more due to me loving my outdoor set up on that car and not working on perfecting a nice clay set up.
There are others on here (and abroad) that have no problems keeping up with - and beating - the latest and greatest mid motor $1000 set ups.
Key is getting the car to 'feel' the way you want it, turn in, mid corner & exit. Corner speed is where the mid motor/longer arm cars have an advantage. Tight twisty tracks, rear motor can not only hang, but shine. The point & shoot ability to swing that rear around quick helps.
And, I am flattered
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- JK Racing
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
I have also moved the speedo to an inline set up. And added the re-re Worlds steering. That battery strap is no long on there, I went back to the original one above, cut down some. The one black arm has been replaced with a white one as well. Do what you have to at the track
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- yellowdatsun
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
I had that speedo setup on my B5M for a while, learned it from one of the pro's. It's a great spot if you can make it work.
You may want to add some actual weights to the front of the car, to help it turn. More weight on the front tires is a good thing. Up by that white sticker thing.
You may want to add some actual weights to the front of the car, to help it turn. More weight on the front tires is a good thing. Up by that white sticker thing.
- JK Racing
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
That car has plenty of turn in, no need for weight.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
I got the chassis sand blasted, and bought the Duplicolor blue anodized look paint LOL. Probably a waste of $20 with the "chrome" paint I had to buy but I think it turned out ok. I'll post some pics tomorrow after the clear dries.
Also today I bought Carbon fiber shock towers (rear one is short for B4 shocks), battery strap, and trans brace. All is 3mm thick except the strap which is 2mm
Next week, I'm buying most all black hard parts including a trans, Lusford buckles/RPM ends, Protek titanium screw kit, 2 AE aluminum screw kits, Avid B4 top shaft, Avid B4 Triad stock clutch, a new body, and RPM arms
Still looking for titanium hinge pins, and a ceramic bearing kit..
Also today I bought Carbon fiber shock towers (rear one is short for B4 shocks), battery strap, and trans brace. All is 3mm thick except the strap which is 2mm
Next week, I'm buying most all black hard parts including a trans, Lusford buckles/RPM ends, Protek titanium screw kit, 2 AE aluminum screw kits, Avid B4 top shaft, Avid B4 Triad stock clutch, a new body, and RPM arms
Still looking for titanium hinge pins, and a ceramic bearing kit..
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
Found the body and decals I'm going to run! Box art TQ10 body and decals! Body from TBG, and decals from MCI Racing
Decals -
http://mciracing.ca/products/blank-7032cc1d-3fce-4d4c-b842-4a3c67787b3c
Body/scheme
This scheme on the wing, only going to use a B4 Interceptor wing
Decals -
http://mciracing.ca/products/blank-7032cc1d-3fce-4d4c-b842-4a3c67787b3c
Body/scheme
This scheme on the wing, only going to use a B4 Interceptor wing
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
Well the blue anodize paint didn't turn out good, so I'll probably run to my friends shop tomorrow and reblast it. What color should it be?
I am thinking gloss black, as the B4 shocks are gray, blue, and black. Will have a bunch of real carbon fiber as well. I also have automotive grade carbon fiber wrap that I can use on various bits.
I am thinking gloss black, as the B4 shocks are gray, blue, and black. Will have a bunch of real carbon fiber as well. I also have automotive grade carbon fiber wrap that I can use on various bits.
- JK Racing
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Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
I've powdercoated in a satin black, semi gloss black as well. I've seen high gloss black as well as many of the neon colors. I personally have a nice purple powder coated chassis & 2 red.
The full red/black/CF looks good.
The full red/black/CF looks good.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
In deed it does! I have a good friend in Wisconsin that does professional powder coating I think I'll go that route this time haha
Re: 17.5T stock class racer build
Thanks for moving this!
Well I decided to ditch the original chassis, as it simply needs well everything and is pretty beat up. Everything my mint unrun, but built re-re World's has. SO that's my plan.. Tired of wasting money haha especially since I just bought $90 in carbon fiber parts. So all that's left is a order from A Main Hobbies for a few parts next week, save for a esc/motor, and pick out a new body..
EDITTED -
True story here - I actually never drove this buggy, traded it for a highly modified SCX10, and bought it back from him still unused about 6 months ago! I was planing to get it running with a old Reedy 19t spec motor, and all AE electronics BUT I decided I want to go in a different direction with my B4 17.5 stock buggy build (had $600 into it and needed another $400)..
SO instead of dump another $400 into the B4, I decided I had a RC10 chassis sitting around that I'd rather build.. well added up what it would cost to for the necessary parts to make a roller out of my 93 chassis.. well I'm better off buying a new Worlds kit and save money at that point.
So I set out to start in on it- first by tearing it apart and come up with a few of the first mods which I have done -
Before getting started - considering tearing it apart haha
To late now..
Torn down, cleaned, and wrapped the front, chassis bottom, and guard of the motor plate in carbon fiber automotive wrap
First mod - cut the bottom out of the battery box
Fits great!
Well I decided to ditch the original chassis, as it simply needs well everything and is pretty beat up. Everything my mint unrun, but built re-re World's has. SO that's my plan.. Tired of wasting money haha especially since I just bought $90 in carbon fiber parts. So all that's left is a order from A Main Hobbies for a few parts next week, save for a esc/motor, and pick out a new body..
EDITTED -
True story here - I actually never drove this buggy, traded it for a highly modified SCX10, and bought it back from him still unused about 6 months ago! I was planing to get it running with a old Reedy 19t spec motor, and all AE electronics BUT I decided I want to go in a different direction with my B4 17.5 stock buggy build (had $600 into it and needed another $400)..
SO instead of dump another $400 into the B4, I decided I had a RC10 chassis sitting around that I'd rather build.. well added up what it would cost to for the necessary parts to make a roller out of my 93 chassis.. well I'm better off buying a new Worlds kit and save money at that point.
So I set out to start in on it- first by tearing it apart and come up with a few of the first mods which I have done -
Before getting started - considering tearing it apart haha
To late now..
Torn down, cleaned, and wrapped the front, chassis bottom, and guard of the motor plate in carbon fiber automotive wrap
First mod - cut the bottom out of the battery box
Fits great!
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