pair of rc10gt-e conversions

[discgolfer72]

had these old rc10GT trucks kicking around on my shelf for the longest time

both had dead motors and since nitro is a pia I decide it was time to convert them


I had a few of these kicking around
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-GT-Electric-Motor-Plate-Vintage-Trick-Conversion-Rc10-With-Screws-/323414643986?oid=323403139093

so I got started on GT-E #1
it already had a nice alloy bumper and some pretty heavy duty alloy front arms
just had to strip all the gas stuff and install the electric mount

picked up these for electronics

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TWQRY1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NT4RT2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MYRQGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


after the build out I needed a battery and body
but my lhs had no shorty lipo in stock so I said what the hey lets go balls out and bought a venom 3s lipo

due to its size I had to cut the chassis sides then I designed a stiffener to make the chassis rigid again

all that's left for it is to design a stiffener for the rear

[discgolfer72]

im working on GT#2 now


while browsing for rc10 parts I found this file on thingiverse
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3034198
its for the flat tub GT but a bit of editing and I refit it to the tub GT

printed it in abs (might need to reprint in something more rigid )

other than being plastic , its actually much better than the alloy one from GT#1 it removes all of the flex in the rear wich is soo nice


this one im going shorty batt pack

[jwscab]

those printed parts are pretty cool. I'd be a little concerned about the motor mount, since the motor can get pretty warm and cause the plastic to deform. maybe design it with the ability to add a metal plate.

[discgolfer72]

those printed parts are pretty cool. I'd be a little concerned about the motor mount, since the motor can get pretty warm and cause the plastic to deform. maybe design it with the ability to add a metal plate.

agree
I printed it in abs as a test (somewhat high temp)

but I have a roll of petg on the way

we will see how it does petg is a pretty high temp plastic

it has a spot for a 40 mm fan , so ill slap a high flow fan and heatsink on there and gear it light, and hope for the best

worst case if it does fail
ill just install a alloy one on it like gt#1 I designed a rear stiffener for gt1 last night so it should be just as stiff now




what I would like is to use the alloy mount along with the printed mount , but the alloy mount puts the motor almost right on the chassis with no room for the plastic underneath

[jwscab]

I know it's not quite the same, but I used aluminum to make a waterfall bracket, the motor sits flush and it's pretty stiff. You might be able to make something similar out of plastic, beef it up quite a bit of course. I utilized the existing motor bracket/mount holes, three of them. I wrestled with this area for a while before I decided on this approach.

[discgolfer72]

I know it's not quite the same, but I used aluminum to make a waterfall bracket, the motor sits flush and it's pretty stiff. You might be able to make something similar out of plastic, beef it up quite a bit of course. I utilized the existing motor bracket/mount holes, three of them. I wrestled with this area for a while before I decided on this approach.

very nice
wish I had a cnc or lathe to work in metal
only 3d printers (tho I do have 8 or so of them lol)
I did just add a laser cutter to my cr10s4 but it will only do acrylic and wood

here is what I ended up with on the GT1
printed the purple block in the rear and then tied it and the trans to the battery brace using some old turnbuckle's

I do neet to vent the printed block a bit more but otherwise with the battery brace and purple block setup its go no flex in the rear at all

[jwscab]

Nice. Yeah looks like you may need a little more venting.

[discgolfer72]

I know it's not quite the same, but I used aluminum to make a waterfall bracket, the motor sits flush and it's pretty stiff. You might be able to make something similar out of plastic, beef it up quite a bit of course. I utilized the existing motor bracket/mount holes, three of them. I wrestled with this area for a while before I decided on this approach.

hey did you use a lathe or a cnc to make that waterfall

do you have a .obj or stl of it

might work trying to 3d print it

[jwscab]

No, the work was all done by hand; well, a drill press and the lower bracket was milled, but it didn't have to be.

I should have made a copy before I bent it, but i used cardboard to make a mockup and transferred it to the aluminum sheet. The material is 1/8"

the lower bracket is 1/4" x 1/2" inch rectangular bar. I milled a notch in it 1/4" x 1/8" so the plate sits flush. The bottom bracket picks up the three motor mount screw holes on the bottom of the chassis.

the 'flutes' were hastily chopped out with a series of chain drilled holes and filing. I messed it up, I should have milled it but was taking short cuts. these were done before the plate was bent. I bent it around a piece of steel bar I had sitting here. maybe 1.5" diameter?

wow, that was a lot of description, it feels like it took longer to write than to do. If you are interested, I'll see if I can find the cardboard template and the actual diameter of the bar I used.

[discgolfer72]

lol
yea from a quick glance at the pics I could not tell if it was cnc out of one chunk or bent sheet stock
(I see the screws at the bottom now )

Im at my store now but I may take some measurements tonight and try and work up a printable design
I see a few guys on ebay selling a waterfall for the b44 (I think) that's 3d printed

[jwscab]

B5 and b6 use waterfall braces. Could probably startt with one of those. I considered that but I have material and tools here and I don't like spending money

[discgolfer72]

ok need some help gearing this thing

the local hobby shop only had 32p spurs that would work (they pretty much only carry traxxas stuff and I needed a kimborugh designed for associated with 48p (what I have been using )

so I stuck to the gearing chart for the 10gt

and came up with a 64t spur and 21t pinion

but im getting some massive thermal throttling after 5 mins and motor and esc are toasty
before I sun the spur gear due to forgetting to tighten the motor screws , I was running a 87 48p spur (don't rember the pinion) and it was at least able to run almost a full battery before thermal shutdown

so now im running
64t 32p spur
21t 32p pinion
4300 kv brushless
with tires that are 95mm tall
any suggestions

[jwscab]

You'll want to gear down for sure. You may want something like a 16 tooth with a 4300kv motor.

[discgolfer72]

You'll want to gear down for sure. You may want something like a 16 tooth with a 4300kv motor.

the only other pinion I had on had that was 32p (lol old one from a og 6 gear)
was a 13t

doing a ton better now motor seems to be stable esc is still getting a bit hot
i need to order one should i go up or down

[jwscab]

if you aren't really racing, just running in the yard or street, as long as you are happy with the performance, motor temps are OK and the esc isn't getting smoking hot, then it's probably good enough. The ESC will really get hot when you are part throttle for most of a battery pack, which is where the FET's are switching less than 100% so will be generating heat. If you are full throttle the entire time, the ESC should be fairly cool. Also, if you are running on grass, that its a pretty heavy load and will increase esc temps.

gearing up from 13 will make the truck a little faster, but the motor will be loaded more so will increase in temps.