Difference between axles: 9755 vs 9598

[jbmeyer13]

The 9755 is from the worlds re-re and the 9598 is from a B4. What is the difference in there overall length?

[XLR8]

The two axles shafts are very nearly the same length (9755 is only about 0.015" longer than 9598).

The distance from the axle's flange face to inside of the roll pin (the bearing portion of the axle) for 9755 measures 0.576" and for 9598 it is 0.588".

So the 9598 is 0.012" longer on the bearing part of the shaft but 0.015" shorter overall.

Of course the big difference between these two axles is that 9755 is CVA while 9598 is CVD.

[Joksa]

Both are for B4, but for different bone.

https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/9755-ASC9755-cva_axles_rear/
https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/9598-ASC9598-mip_cvd_axles/

[jbmeyer13]

The two axles shafts are very nearly the same length (9755 is only about 0.015" longer than 9598).

The distance from the axle's flange face to inside of the roll pin (the bearing portion of the axle) for 9755 measures 0.576" and for 9598 it is 0.588".

So the 9598 is 0.012" longer on the bearing part of the shaft but 0.015" shorter overall.

Of course the big difference between these two axles is that 9755 is CVA while 9598 is CVD.

Seems the CVA is the preferrable option on modern tracks. This is what I currently have but the issue on my Stealth when using modern tires is clearance with the shocks. I’m using 9588 B4 wheels which have a greater positive offset than the 6805 world’s wheels. I either need to drill out the rear axle to move the pin further outboard or need to create an axle collar slotted on one end with a cross hatch key on the other to mate with the B4 wheel.

[Joksa]

Something like this? https://www.customworksrc.com/product/rear-wheel-spacer-125/

[jbmeyer13]

Something like this? https://www.customworksrc.com/product/rear-wheel-spacer-125/

Yep, exactly like that. What is the diameter of the axle hole? I’m not familiar with the Dominator, Enforcer, etc.

[Joksa]

Yep, exactly like that. What is the diameter of the axle hole? I’m not familiar with the Dominator, Enforcer, etc.

I don't have any experience, but I have seen those used many times in this forum. Those seem to work with 3/16 axles.

https://www.google.com/search?q=custom+works+spacer+site:rc10talk.com

[jbmeyer13]

[quote=jbmeyer13 post_id=513487 time=<a href="tel:1599142873">1599142873</a> user_id=9576]

Yep, exactly like that. What is the diameter of the axle hole? I’m not familiar with the Dominator, Enforcer, etc.

I don't have any experience, but I have seen those used many times in this forum. Those seem to work with 3/16 axles.

https://www.google.com/search?q=custom+works+spacer+site:rc10talk.com
[/quote]

Yeah, those appear to be the ticket. I already ordered aluminum tubing and since I’d need 2 on each wheel ($50 in parts) I’ll try fabricating my own with dremel and files.

[Joksa]

I already ordered aluminum tubing and since I’d need 2 on each wheel ($50 in parts) I’ll try fabricating my own with dremel and files.

Yeah, little bit dremeling and fabbing is the essence of this hobby

(there are also wider .250 spacer available from custom works https://www.customworksrc.com/product/rear-wheel-spacers-250/ 16$/pair )

[XLR8]

Those CW spacers are 0.125".
I'm running the thin nylock wheel nuts and there is almost exactly 1/8" of thread projecting past the nut. As such, the 0.25" spacers would not work in this application.

[Joksa]

Those CW spacers are 0.125".
I'm running the thin nylock wheel nuts and there is almost exactly 1/8" of thread projecting past the nut. As such, the 0.25" spacers would not work in this application.

Good info. I sounds that going past .125 spacer, you would need extended barrel nut for the wheel.

[jbmeyer13]

You can always increase the depth of the pin slot on the spacer so that it sits further from the outboard edge of the axle. Do that in conjunction with 8/32 serrated lock nut and
It should be okay.

[XLR8]

For some reason this conversation has inspired me to pull the B4.1 off the shelf, install a motor, ESC and Rx and run some laps. Man, what a great car! I think handling is miles ahead of the original RC10. Is the B5 really a better car??

[jbmeyer13]

For some reason this conversation has inspired me to pull the B4.1 off the shelf, install a motor, ESC and Rx and run some laps. Man, what a great car! I think handling is miles ahead of the original RC10. Is the B5 really a better car??

Good question. I own a B5 but not a B4 so I can’t say. However, the B4 was the winningest buggy associated ever produced and was the refined version of the ‘91 Stealth (and we all know how I feel about that car ). The B4 evolved through older travk surfaces through to high bite so it was a very successful design.

What would be cool is marrying a ‘91 chassis to B4 parts.

[XLR8]

"What would be cool is marrying a ‘91 chassis to B4 parts." That could be done.

Those are some interesting facts about the B4. I know almost nothing about the car since it came and went during my 20-year hiatus from the hobby.
This B4.1 that I've been running has a gear diff, rubber sealed bearings and shocks that don't leak so it's virtually maintenance free. I've tossed in a 3500kv motor so it's not over-powered yet it seems fast. Also, I'm running Bow-ties and it seems to like a loose dry track so there's no need to water the track to gain traction. I just toss in a battery and go have some fun. I really like this car!