Looks good so far. Did you test fit your steering servo before installing the front suspension? Chances are you'll have to do a little 'dremeling' to get it to fit right. If so, it is much easier to do so with the front end removed. I did mine with a hand file to have a little more control and have a better looking finished product.
Any thoughts on the open bottom tranny? I was surprised to see an open case at the bottom. Seems silly to 'seal' the case halves with grease as instructed in the manual. Dirt will take the path of least resistance - An open gap versus two case halves clamped together seems like an easier way inside.
I haven't installed a servo yet, but I have a plan for that.
I know what you meen about the tranny, but I'll be running the car indoors for the time being, so not too dirty. I have set my tranny as low as possible anyway, so there is no gap, but I'm sure dirt will still find a way in
Weave wrote:Looks good so far. Did you test fit your steering servo before installing the front suspension? Chances are you'll have to do a little 'dremeling' to get it to fit right. If so, it is much easier to do so with the front end removed. I did mine with a hand file to have a little more control and have a better looking finished product.
Any thoughts on the open bottom tranny? I was surprised to see an open case at the bottom. Seems silly to 'seal' the case halves with grease as instructed in the manual. Dirt will take the path of least resistance - An open gap versus two case halves clamped together seems like an easier way inside.
Weave
It's possible to make small lexan inserts when you make some room for then at the tranny base. That solves most of the problems. It also fits if you do not make room, but tranny will be warped and not run smootly and the seal will still be bad.
Attachments
I know lousy quality picture.
Small Lexan shield.JPG (18.16 KiB) Viewed 1674 times
I know lousy quality picture.
Small Lexan shield.JPG (18.16 KiB) Viewed 1674 times
Any thoughts on the open bottom tranny? I was surprised to see an open case at the bottom. Seems silly to 'seal' the case halves with grease as instructed in the manual. Dirt will take the path of least resistance - An open gap versus two case halves clamped together seems like an easier way inside.
Weave
Just an idea:
you could get those sheets of felt with one sticky side. Cut it carefully so it won't interfere with the diff gear. It will raise the gearbox a bit though and I'm not sure if that's ok.
Anothter way , but a bit more cumbersome for maintenance: seal it of with silicon* after mounting.
(*:You know the type they use to seal windows)
Goodluck
rather than milling the chassis: can 't you enlarge the hole in the middle?
Looking at the pics in the link, I think the moter you use has a slightly bigger bearing house than the moter plate is designed for.
With a larger hole you could rotate it up wards a bit more and use the bottom one of the 2 lower holes.
(or you could check for another moter with smaller bearing house...)
I had a few days off work so took the opportunity get on with some of my R/C projects which included making a start on my new-build JRX2.
First, I dug out all of the parts that i've collected over the years. This collection was started following a...
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Sorry chaps! I've only just noticed that this thread got 'bumped up' - unfortunately JRX2 No.3 kinda stopped along with that last post about a year ago.... all the parts are residing in a box ready to be assembled into a car..... which probably...
Now I'm not a big fan of nib collections, I just don't see the point, never have done, until this arrived today. 8)
The fact that it's near perfect, 25 years old, and Senna's car, makes me want to keep it as it is, but that does kinda go...
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Hi - given the age of this thread this may be a long shot but I’d hugely appreciate scans of the manual if you happen to have it still, please? I finally retrieved my kit out of the storage unit it was in for many many years and all the parts are in...
i started working on my next what's old is new car, this time using a tub chassis. this will be built for the v-nats, whatever year it is that i get there again. being as though i've never been a 10t fan, i decided to sacrifice the only 10t i have...
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Another little update.
Got a set of M4 Proline Primes for this. Seems to be what everyone runs at the track we go to. The car is still working pretty well, I'm fairly happy with it. Current shock setup:
So this thing has been sitting as parts in plastic bags for almost a year, so I decided to build it. :D I still need a bunch of parts to finish it off, but it's a good start. I have some NIP wheels but not enough screws to attach them to the hubs....
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it looks great with the new wheels and orion matched batteries. :D
in an unrealistic world... it would be cool if we could all get together and have a build off. start with a nib (vintage) rc10 and see who could build it the fastest and have judges rate it based on how well it was assembled and how much care was...
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I'm pretty sure it was aconsola. I'll bet that there's more than a few people that could pull it off.
nope, wasn't me. but i do remember the post. IIRC, he had the sub assemblies like shocks and gearbox already built and just bolted everything up.
I finally got my last Ultima that being a rare NIB Ultima Pro XL.
I now have the whole Ultima line up & most are runners but I never thought my quest for a Ultima Pro Xl would be a NIB. Don't ask why I got a NIB it just turned out that way.
While...
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I'll get some pics of it soon to make you even more not jealous . :lol: