RC10 Green Edition - Build
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
Looked in to the shock options, and the CC shocks are $70 +tax and shipping.
Found some Team Car hardened anodized green with black aluminum cap shocks for $70, but cramming those on top of short arms doesn't seem like a good idea.
Going to have to polish the orange off the stock shocks, to keep the cost down.
Even if I were to chemically strip the orange, the surface would still need to be polished after the process. Would like to keep the inside of the shocks smooth to promote correct wear, so I guess that means I will have to polish them. Have some MacGuire's and Dremel, need to study up on how to do this without ruining anything.
Found some Team Car hardened anodized green with black aluminum cap shocks for $70, but cramming those on top of short arms doesn't seem like a good idea.
Going to have to polish the orange off the stock shocks, to keep the cost down.
Even if I were to chemically strip the orange, the surface would still need to be polished after the process. Would like to keep the inside of the shocks smooth to promote correct wear, so I guess that means I will have to polish them. Have some MacGuire's and Dremel, need to study up on how to do this without ruining anything.
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
Figured out the rear wheels so far, but still deciding on the front wheels and tires.
- RC10resto
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- Dangeruss
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- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
With some of the resto's I've done relating to aluminium parts - shocks/chassis plates etc
- I just removed the anodising
- Polished them to a shine - polishing before anodising gives a better finish
- Have re-anodised locally(at a company) in a different colour to set mine apart from the standard kit
But in saying this - they look awesome but my shelf cars are dry rebuilt so can't tell if the shocks will hold any oil...
- I just removed the anodising
- Polished them to a shine - polishing before anodising gives a better finish
- Have re-anodised locally(at a company) in a different colour to set mine apart from the standard kit
But in saying this - they look awesome but my shelf cars are dry rebuilt so can't tell if the shocks will hold any oil...
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
How did you remove the anodizing in the past?Puffdogg wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2025 9:02 pm With some of the resto's I've done relating to aluminium parts - shocks/chassis plates etc
- I just removed the anodising
- Polished them to a shine - polishing before anodising gives a better finish
- Have re-anodised locally(at a company) in a different colour to set mine apart from the standard kit
But in saying this - they look awesome but my shelf cars are dry rebuilt so can't tell if the shocks will hold any oil...
I've seen Lye (sodium hydroxide) used in many forms like Drain cleaner and Easy-Off oven spray, also have seen Zep purple degreaser used to remove anodizing.
Lye will go too far too fast if not watched, and Zep or Simple Green can take an hour or more.
Looking for the quickest and safest way to do this.
I have Simple Green here, seems like the perfect thing to try first.
If that won't do it, maybe this will :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085FS4JTD
Q: can you please provide ingredients list for those who are severely chemically sensitive?
A: Benzisothiazolinone, Sodium hydroxide, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone are preservatives.
- RC10th
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
Oven cleaner is the easiest and fastest method, just don't leave it in there too long, 5 - 10 minutes at a time.
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
After 13 hours in Simple Green, they smell good.
Going to have to get something more serious to remove the orange. Will try the Easy-Off oven cleaner first, and then the lye soda beads/flakes as a last resort.
Going to have to get something more serious to remove the orange. Will try the Easy-Off oven cleaner first, and then the lye soda beads/flakes as a last resort.
- MarkyDents
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
The original yellow can Easy-off is what you’re going to want to use. Your going to have to babysit it but it’ll definitely get it done and quick
Who do you race for ?
Me……. I race for me.
That’s impossible, I was told you need a sponsor to race.
Hey Cru ! Go balls out
Me……. I race for me.
That’s impossible, I was told you need a sponsor to race.
Hey Cru ! Go balls out
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
Ordering the yellow Easy-Off spray cleaner now. Thanks for another vote for this.MarkyDents wrote: ↑Sat Jan 11, 2025 10:18 pm The original yellow can Easy-off is what you’re going to want to use. Your going to have to babysit it but it’ll definitely get it done and quick
Couldn't take those Jackman 5-spoke wheels and tire-writing from the Sand Scorcher, made a different front pair for the GE instead, these are the Pargu wheel covers.
Need to go back over the tire-writing with a toothpick and wet Q-tip to clean up/sharpen the lines, and then touch it all up again with the paint pen. Not fun, but better than trimming a large pile of decals.
- juicedcoupe
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
These were mostly stripped with Easy-Off. I used a Dremel and brass wire wheel to remove any remnants.
Always looking for new and interesting ways to waste money.
- GreenBar0n
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Re: RC10 Green Edition - Build
Very clean, that's the look I'm going for.juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Sat Jan 11, 2025 10:41 pm These were mostly stripped with Easy-Off. I used a Dremel and brass wire wheel to remove any remnants.
Screenshot_20250111_163719_Gallery.jpg
I got both the aerosol Easy-Off and the liquid for soaking, should be here Tuesday.
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