QIDI Plus4 - 3D Printer

[XLR8]

Nice work! Much thanks, I'll print it now!



I started out with the Cut line set like this, to remove the roof, took 2 seconds to set it and forget it, pressed Perform Cut:


What just happened???

It cut the band that joins the roof to the body, and somehow removed the lights and all accessories, by itself?!

When things like this happen, I always wonder how hard it would've been to set out to do exactly that

Not sure what's going on with the Gdrive but please check your email. Maybe you can diagnose the problem?

Anyway, for some reason, Orca appears to have separated all the items that aren't actually connected to the camper shell (their geometry isn't merged with the camper's surfaces). I can do this in Sketchup by double clicking them but it's interesting the Orca has done this by accident.
In any event, I hope you're able to run a test print.

[GreenBar0n]

I was looking in the wrong folder for your models, found them Wish I knew exactly what button or setting removed those accessories, that could be useful again.


Printed the model I made without the roof or accessories, first.

Printed upside down, using my least expensive PLA for testing. Good not great.








The window frames are deformed in spots, and incomplete in others. Need to figure out how to overcome this.

@XLR8 made a different version that I'll test print next, really appreciate it, thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

Facts taken from:
https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2010/04/the-birth-of-the-vw-bus-from-first-sketch-to-production/

Here's the prototype '49 VW Bus, first ever made.


This is the first production model VW Bus ever, March 8th 1950.


Park by ear.


Quite a contrast from having no windows, to the first Deluxe model 23 Window available in '51:
https://air-cool-ed.com/2021/04/24/the-true-diamond-1951-vw-bus-deluxe-samba/



Going to start printing @XLR8's Bus model he cut, to see if the cut I did on mine caused an issue with the window frames. Without the roof on, may try printing the shell right side up also.

EDIT: XLR8's cut is much better, going to try this right side up, and as large as my bed will allow or 300mm Y-axis longways. This giant (for my bed) print should reveal any flaws in my bed level, or heating/cooling options.

Really like how you left the headlights/handles, and removed the turn signals, way better than mine. Thanks!

[GreenBar0n]

This Bus shell will take another 6 hours to finish printing, but so far all of the window frames are complete, and don't look deformed. Major improvement.

[GreenBar0n]

@XLR8's roof-cut came out better than my first attempt. Had to print it upside down to get it to work.








I scaled the top too long, and made a microbus mullet.


This model is better than the others available for sale out there, but the window pillars are too wide in the front, and the door handles print poorly.

Using a printed frame and interior with a lexan body is an option too.

[XLR8]

The body actually looks pretty good -- especially when you consider that it was printed in one piece.
Things like door handles, lights and the VW medallion really should be printed separately so everything can be easily prepped for paint. This can be done with this model.

You have perhaps the first "microbus mullet" in history.

[GreenBar0n]

There were some artifacts in the print from my bed possibly being a bit out of level still. I may try to remove the last 0.55mm of left-to-right leveling, to see if I can get the bed perfectly even/flat. Then I can blame something else for causing these defects

In order to keep the roof and the body locked to the same scale/constraint, I'll need to scale the roof and body down together, then separate them - to make it easier or quicker. I'll check the original proportions, and try to make a roof that fits for this body, just to make sure I'm understanding scale properly in the future.

Will try to print the front beam for the VW frame, had some trouble with that last time for reasons I can't remember.

[XLR8]

Hmm, not sure what is happening.
As a test, I've made a new build plate, imported the body, rescaled by 50% and rotated so it fits the plate. Then, I've repeated the process for the roof. This was done in Bambu Studio.

In Orca, if you rescale each part by the same percentage, are they not the same size?

[GreenBar0n]

Thanks! I didn't use percentages when scaling, just typed in an absolute number for both parts on the Y-axis. I'll measure the body first, and make the difference up on the roof next time.

This model might be good for road running, or demolition derby, but it's not shelf worthy unfortunately .

[XLR8]

Thanks! I didn't use percentages when scaling, just typed in an absolute number for both parts on the Y-axis. I'll measure the body first, and make the difference up on the roof next time.

This model might be good for road running, or demolition derby, but it's not shelf worthy unfortunately .

I'm new to 3d printing and still adjusting to the fact that if I screw-up a part, rather than trying to fix it, I can just print another.
What an amazing tool!!

[GreenBar0n]

3D printing is incredible! But I don't think this roof can be smoothed out, this Bus model was pretty inaccurate/rough overall, was worth the experiment though.


Got the wheels on the 3D Buggy, calling this done.

Thanks again @XLR8 for your excellent CAD SRB model, this printed dune buggy body would've been worthless without your SRB chassis!

It will live on top of the QIDI from now on.


I had originally thought I might use this Dune Buggy body with the Tamiya Buggy Champ/Rough Rider kit, but the Tamiya parts would need to be cut, or shortened, to make them fit this Dune Buggy model, can't do that, but might make another one to paint someday.

[XLR8]

That's a great looking dune buggy model. Glad I could help.
Regarding the bus roof, yes it would require a lot of sanding and filling to make a terrace farm like that smooth.
Key to minimizing layer lines is to tilt the part to around 45 degrees from the build plate. When it's time to print parts for our prototype builds, I will create supports that orient each for best results and minimize sanding and filling.

FWIW, I tried to apply the Alclad chrome paint last evening and it didn't work. I've followed Alclad's instructions and advice from a few Youtubers but it simply looks like dark silver paint with none of the reflective properties of actual chrome. Maybe the bottle I have was mislabeled? Anyway, I've reached out to Alclad for advice. My fallback plan is to use bare-metal foil and just focus on finishing this project - which seems to be dragging on forever.

[GreenBar0n]

Sorry to hear about the Alclad II, I used that on Lexan and it came out decent when backed in black:






The best Chrome spray I have seen, for regular ABS, or PLA, is Revell Chrome Spray, it looks like mirror chrome, but can't be touched or handled without tarnishing, also can't gloss over it, or seal it, or it will lose its luster.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/396187636765

Did the Sand Scorcher exhaust stinger in the Revell:


I have some chrome airbrush paint I'd like to try to see if it's more durable.

[XLR8]

Thanks!

I've heard/seen good things from Revell's chrome spray however I'll need to handle the parts to install them so it's probably not an option -- at least not for this project.
BTW, I've received a reply from Alclad:

Hello Doug
I've contacted the distributor who supplies Maul's World there haven't been any issues with mislabelled product ( the paints are produced and labelled in runs of a few hundred).
I'd suggest using ebay refund option in the meantime could you send a picture of the bottle.
regards
Tony Hipp
Alclad II

Not sure if can request a refund for an open bottle of paint. I'll just send them a pic and move on.
Will probably just blast everything with silver and call it good. I have other, more interesting projects in the que.
Printed models are fun to design and build but when it's time to paint and finish the parts, the fun ends.

[GreenBar0n]

Painting is a chore