My New Gold Runner w/ 6 gear

[seth556]

I just thought it was funny you had such a great qualifier and race and couldn't talk about anything but getting back to the RC10.

Other note, do you still like the barcodes better than the 4-ribs? I was thinking about trying the 4-ribs and some weight up front. I think next week I'm going to try go get a good bit a practice in with the buggy and dial everything in.

[JK Racing]

I like my 22 also, but as soon as I can afford a 2nd brushless set up, my RC10 will be my main driver. The 22 does carry some fantastic corner speed, but my old reflexes are better suited to the old car

[Ruffy]

There's just something about a well setup and tuned RC10 that feels awesome. That locked in solid feel of a race buggy, where you can still "feel" the track thru it.
The new buggies have almost eliminated that feel, kinda like the difference between a Ferarri vs a Cadillac feel. The Ferarri you can feel the engine, the road surface, etc... the Cadillac you hardly feel anything.

So yes, my main racers are still going to be my gold tub RC10 CE's after this short testing period.

Seth, the ribs seem to be the most consistant normally, but if you can get your car just right and then on that day you can drive it smoothly, that is when I switch to barcodes. Otherwise they seem to be a bit much at times.

[Lonestar]

Ruffy

Good job!!!!


I'll watch your progress closely as I had a similar "revelation" when I tried my restored (stealth) CE at the track during free practice on raceday...

see here:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21202

The car just felt rock solid and the easiest thing to drive on the planet. I feel I need to give it a chance to humiliate the newer designs and upset my fellow racers

What's your take on the front suspension travel and ride height? with 2.2 wheels, the car sits too high and removing spring tension to take it down means that the shocks run out of travel way too early when the suspension gets compressed. thanks!

Paul

[Y'ernat Al]

Where's the "Like" button for this thread? Oh @#$%#, I new that facebook thing was going to be bad for my health.

Anyway great thread. I read it through and it makes a great story! Good mix of information and anecdote!

[Ruffy]

Thanks Guys!
I got to admit that this is all fun once again!


Lonestar: Since our local track removed the huge "air" jumps for a more flowing design, I have removed the external o-ring limiters from both my front and back shocks on the CE's and the cars work great. The laptimes are up there with the best in the state, so my take is that as long as you have sufficient travel in the front to absorb the few jumps and dips needed, the front doesn't need more travel. Think about it like motocross, when the bikes go thru the woop sections, they never want the front wheel down in the "woop-vally's" but instead the bikes work better when they just hit the top of each woop. In the RC10's front, this works great as the larger wheel helps to prevent this and also you don't need quite as much travel since the front end should be floating over the bumps rather than thru them.
As a true race example: We all used to run last year at an indoor track down in Port St. Lucie, that one time setup a deep washboard section with approximately 10 feet of deep washboard grooves ( about 2" deep each valley and about 2-3" wide at the tops of each). The first thing I noticed when I raced my RC10 CE's there vs the other guys running their longer front suspension modern racers, is that I loved the washboard section as it didn't upset my car at all. I just powered thru it like a motocross racer, going over the tops. But then I stopped to watch others racing the B4's and Losi buggies and noticed their cars were getting all out of shape over them causing the cars to flip or wheelie out of one of the woops pointing the car towards a side wall, etc... so needless to say many racers that weekend voiced that they hated those kind of obstacles. Yet my car with the shorter front shocks loved it and I wished they had never taken it out.
My take on the above is that their front tires/wheels were going all the way down into each woop's valley, instead of floating above it, causing the suspension to at first absorb but then it would quickly get out of shape.
The larger shocks help greatly with landing from a high altitude, no doubt. But as far as today's hard packed and smooth tracks with barely a ripple in them, if the track doesn't have huge air jumps or if you can overcome the huge airjump if one exists, the shorter front suspension seems to be better suited for todays tracks, whereas the longer suspension we all know was better suited for the old school, deep dirt, rutted, tracks to help keep the cars stable.
This is just my observation and my opinion from driving the RC10CE, The B4 and just last weekend the 22 for the first time. I did try my RC10CE last weekend early in the morning as a backup plan, and it was like on rails. I couldn't put a tire in the wrong place.

[Lonestar]

Ruffy - makes sense.

Then i'd take this one step further - to come to an equivalent "old-school" droop that allows to glide above the whoops rather than "into" them, and because the 2.2 wheels artificially increase droop since they allow to run the piston higher in the shock, then we also need to limit front downtravel with internal shocks don't we ? on top of removing the external o-rings

makes sense

thanks - really looking forward to 11/12 winter indoor season

Paul

[vwjuice]

I was thinking of this all day/night yesterday after I got all the comments on my thread about my first gold pan. Thanks for all the help guys.

I remembered a fellow member here (Rustbucket) Don, has been racing his RC10 and 10T ONLY for the last few years. His wife runs a XXXT-MF2 and I'm always shocked at how well his truck and especially his buggy handle on the track. He doesn't push them and stays out of everyones way, but I'm sure they would probably be a contender for the win. I got my 6-gear from him, so that got me a little excited. I had a B4 last year and raced it once, but it was too twitchy and I sold it.

Ruffy I think you're right about the short shocks aiding the buggies on todays modern track. Don and I run three different tracks. The first is a clay indoor track that always has a great flowing design. It never has any huge jumps, there will be big ones, but they are tables that flow so easily that you downside it everytime without trying. The two other tracks are outdoor tracks that are watered and taken care of very well. one is an oval and the other is off road. There is always one pretty big jump, but we've found that due to the wind we roll it easier. It's a big table that is 12ft long with a 6ft run up so you get a lot of air time, but only 2-3ft above the track at most. I am really looking forward to running my 6-gear there.

[Lonestar]

Here's the stuff I run on during the winter







you get the idea. You basicall set oil/springs/gearing/slipper for the jumps and you just hope the car copes in the (few) flat sections Hard to drive on that stuff for 5mns without making at least one mistake.

Paul

[vwjuice]

Wow. Looks pretty fun.

[seth556]

Hey Ruffy can you post or send me the setup you're using on your Tekin RS with the 17.5 motor?

[Ruffy]

The one I am using right now is the one by Randy Pike (Tekin Rep) since I have tried a few and nothing feels perfect to me yet.
You can get it here for the 17.5, Randy_Pikes_Setup

[JK Racing]

I've been eyeballing an RS, but I dont need boost/timing . I just want small/lightweight.

[seth556]

I'll give that one a shot, I'll have my laptop Sunday to work on it.

[Ruffy]

Jake, the Tekin RS is small, and has plenty of power tricks up its' sleeve for stock and mods both! We have been hunting for a fast setup for stock, that feels linear with the power delivery. Currently the Tekin has so much power come on when running it with a 17.5 that the car feels faster than with a 13.5 mod motor, just not as smooth in the acceleration.
We just need a few practice days to find a smooth linear feel setup.