Converting the old to new help.
- m_vice
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
[youtube]<object width="640" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JoqDYcCDOTg&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JoqDYcCDOTg&hl=en_US&fs=1&color1=0x3a3a3a&color2=0x999999" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>[/youtube]
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
Hey as far as countersinks go, 4/40's are 82deg, 8/32's are 100 deg, and you will need a 5-9 flute countersink if you want to use it more than once
Re: Converting the old to new help.
Thanks charlie.
So to drill the front for the 10T bulkhead, which countersink did you use? 4/40 82 degree? And what would I need the 8/32's for?
Any additional help/pictures/diagrams etc. would help. Thanks.
M_Vice, nice Starsky clip. Hilarious movie.
So to drill the front for the 10T bulkhead, which countersink did you use? 4/40 82 degree? And what would I need the 8/32's for?
Any additional help/pictures/diagrams etc. would help. Thanks.
M_Vice, nice Starsky clip. Hilarious movie.
- m_vice
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
Love that part of the movie, LOL…
In some projects I have use the 82* to countersink all the screws and it works out ok, it is not easy to find 100* bits.
I need to find a chassis to do this. I like the look of it better than the tub with the long arms. I might have to make one.
This is the link on how I make some of my parts. I would probable do the same to modify the front of a chassis.
Cutting parts for my R/C cars.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
In some projects I have use the 82* to countersink all the screws and it works out ok, it is not easy to find 100* bits.
I need to find a chassis to do this. I like the look of it better than the tub with the long arms. I might have to make one.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
This is the link on how I make some of my parts. I would probable do the same to modify the front of a chassis.
Cutting parts for my R/C cars.
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
TViz wrote:Thanks charlie.
So to drill the front for the 10T bulkhead, which countersink did you use? 4/40 82 degree? And what would I need the 8/32's for?
Any additional help/pictures/diagrams etc. would help. Thanks.
M_Vice, nice Starsky clip. Hilarious movie.
8/32 for the Phillips screws to attach the bulkhead to the chassis
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
- longboardnj
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
its sad to see a nice chassis die... how bad is the stock front end??? id just make a rc10t into a buggy.. this buggy looks to have a stock front end and its doin good on the track [youtube]qPmuohuUBQQ[/youtube]
- m_vice
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
Question, let me know what you think.
![Image](http://www.rc10talk.com/download/file.php?id=31008&mode=view)
If this cars wheelbase was 1/2" shorter would it be a bad thing. It would be to race on a small indoor track.
What would be any advantages or disadvantages?
If this cars wheelbase was 1/2" shorter would it be a bad thing. It would be to race on a small indoor track.
What would be any advantages or disadvantages?
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
The car will feel very free with a short wheelbase and should have better corner entry, but less exit speed be a little slower in the rythm sections or rollers and will jump with a higher altitude than a "standard" car. But that is based off of no suspension changes between the two--you should be able to soften the car up and increase the damping and /or run a two stage piston to get it sorted out And you will need to add lead to keep the front end down and keep weight transfer the same
- m_vice
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Re: Converting the old to new help.
Thanks Reg, I might cut it out of the smaller extra plate you sent me if I can’t find a decent AE chassis to built a runner. I thin I can set it up nicely but I am concern about adding front weight.Charlie don't surf wrote:The car will feel very free with a short wheelbase and should have better corner entry, but less exit speed be a little slower in the rythm sections or rollers and will jump with a higher altitude than a "standard" car. But that is based off of no suspension changes between the two--you should be able to soften the car up and increase the damping and /or run a two stage piston to get it sorted out And you will need to add lead to keep the front end down and keep weight transfer the same
![Cool 8)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
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