However... the plastics quality has degraded considerably since TT took AE over a few years back. They'd been manufacturing AE stuff for years anyway, but once they got control on the whole thing it seems they went for slightly different plastic formulas. The parts quality (molds flashing, arm holes sizes, ...) has also not improved as much as the other manufacturers' - anyone who's assembled an Xray car would know what I'm talking about. For instance, there's quite a bunch of C-hubs where the hinge pins just won't fit unless you use a vice.
Tips from a former B4 racer (I sold it a couple of months ago with the idea of buying a TRF201X for the winter season as I race 8th scale offroad only in the summer - but then again the 201X's price has kinda shocked me so I might very well pick another B4 soon enough as I still kept parts for it...):
- ditch the stock gear cover and replace with the RPM one
- Replace the 4/40 screws holding the front block to the chassis with M3 screws
- ditto on the rear ones
- ditto on the top ones that hold the front brace to the chassis, use socket heads and use washers
- ditch the front body holder (that funny "pierced" socket head) and use velcro to attach body to chassis
- don't overtighten the tranny case screws

- Run the team composite chassis and not the graphite FT one (later FT kits have the team chassis in the box btw...)
- if the track is tough on front arms, don't hesitate to use the RPM bumper - it's ugly but it's a life-saver in some cases.
Here's my (ex-)ride, pics taken by a web-reporter during an indoor race

There is no $200 car on the market that works so well straight out of the box. A true modern classic that keeps beating the competition consistently in everyone's hands year after year. The pinnacle of 2WD

Paul
PS: Mayfield and Cavalieri are AE's two most prominent drivers these days
