Anyone into R/C boats

[Jedi Master]

I run boats too, but it's expensive if you want to go fast. £500 hand built german motors, 22.2v lipo's, bespoke built hulls......it can get crazy!

Getting the set-up right is critical, otherwise you quickly end up smoking your 'very expensive' electrics!!

He's my Triton Toysport on a perfect day;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGSMz6AiXmI

Towards the end of the clip you'll see me 'playing' with the wakeboarders and their rides. With a top speed of 65mph, my 'toy' was quite an amusement for them.

[jwscab]

the extent of my boating was having plans to build one using a weedwacker engine as a basis, I had one with no shaft or 'wacker', but it was good running.....the plan was to use foam blocks cut to shape then fiberglass over that, with the bulkheads built in. Never got around to it.

[slotcarrod]

I have the opposite problem of a lot of people. I have a pretty large lake right outside my back door, but just no desire to own a boat. A tugboat or sailboat would be kinda fun I guess. Maybe one of these days. Old pics, but the only ones I have on my work computer. Lakes don't change much anyway...



You can see my neighbor's dog, Stretch in the foreground. He likes to hang out with me.

What a lovely back yard Thumbs! Any problems with skeeters?

Sail boats are very relaxing! If you have had a bad day and just need to unwind, Sailing with a cold beer or two is just great! Even without the beer!

Did the speed boat thing.... .... After 15 min or so of running... (where is the "YAWN" smilie?) Sold them off!

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Any problems with skeeters?

Only the ones as big as your head! I treat the area pretty heavily so it's not too bad.

I keep my DVR set to record anything with "radio control" in the description and sadly I rarely get a hit, but one day it recorded a show about boats. Awesome scalers, some with working bells or whistles. It was awesome. They had tugboats, warships and about anything else you could imagine. I was surprised no one had the Orca from "Jaws". I think a scale version of that would look awesome making it's way slowly around the lake.

[Jedi Master]

Any problems with skeeters?

Only the ones as big as your head! I treat the area pretty heavily so it's not too bad.

I keep my DVR set to record anything with "radio control" in the description and sadly I rarely get a hit, but one day it recorded a show about boats. Awesome scalers, some with working bells or whistles. It was awesome. They had tugboats, warships and about anything else you could imagine. I was surprised no one had the Orca from "Jaws". I think a scale version of that would look awesome making it's way slowly around the lake.

I used to own and run a stunning Orca boat, but sadly I had to let it go to raise some cash. I was gutted, it was the best scale RC I'd every had;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWVmesro6UU

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I used to own and run a stunning Orca boat, but sadly I had to let it go to raise some cash. I was gutted, it was the best scale RC I'd every had;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWVmesro6UU

Phenomenal! That lighted cabin is the most classic thing ever! Now I know what I want on the shelf next to my Dominator!

[SoloGraphix]

Would any of you with boating know-how care to share some knowledge on converting my Nitro ProBoat Miss Llumar to Brushless?

There is so many variables I don't quite grasp and internet searches sadly have only lead me to non informative discussions about the boat itself.

Do you put 1/8 systems in these things or is a 1/10 system sufficient? I would like it to be at least as peppy as it is now without the hassle of swimming or rowing to it when it stalls.

[Jedi Master]

My advice to DerbyDan, and anyone else looking to convert/upgrade their boat, is to understand how 'very' different the electrics operate when running boats compared to cars;

When you 'gun' the throttle in a car, the slipper will absorb the power or you'll spin the wheels. In a boat you don't have a slipper, and the prop will not spin free in the water; it will grip (hard) and cause your motor to pull huge amps. It will get hot very quickly and fry your motor/ESC/batts.

If you want to really get into the boat scene then you'll find that getting the 'set-up' right is the most important bit. Props come in many different shapes and sizes and materials and they will all load up the electronics in different ways. Honestly, the whole thing can get very complex, and very very expensive.

If you want to upgrade an RTR boat or convert one to electric, then my advice would be to use the complete electrics from an existing boat that has been tried and tested.

Derbydan, for that boat I would recommend something like the SV27, Stilletto or UL-1 electrics. All of the components are readily available from various hobbystores. but I would also spend a bit of time scanning a decent forum such as OffshoreElectrics.com

You'll need to keep and eye on the propshaft and use a decent marine grade grease. If you want longivity from the upgrade, I'd advise you to change that as well. If you want the simple route, then just add a decent brushed esc, with a hotter brushed motor and a decent bttery pack. You should also buy a simple water cooling coil, which wraps around the motor and allows you to run water through it to cool the motor.

Honestly, you have lots of options, but I would scan the OffshoreElectrics forum first to gain a bit more knowledge, and also to allow you to consider all of your options.

Hope that helps!

[DerbyDan]

Great advice Jedi Master!! I will certainly look into those boats that you suggest lifting the set-up for the electrics out of..... for the moment i'm not sure I want to go that fast - yet!

I think I will first give my boat a go just as it is - 'on-off' micro switch included! & see how I like it. As i'm not racing or in anyway wanting to have the fastest thing on the water! I think any upgrades in the first instance will be using brushed technology - I think I will definately be looking for a suitable ESC first then maybe upgrade the motor if I feel the need, I have a 27t stock & a HPI 20t silver can that could be donated to the cause.

Since I recieved the boat last week i've been trying to gleam as much info as possible off the net - & I must admit i'm completely baffled by it all... I did however find this old forum topic which has given me some ideas...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4293035

...it would figure that perhaps the best 'upgrade' I could make is to reduce the friction through the Propshaft.... so I will deffiinately look into that - along with watercooling for the motor - both seem key in improving efficency & reliabilty which I think is most important to me.

By the way I think the boat is more modern than I first thought - the instructions show the Futaba AttackII radio in the illustrations so I reckon it must date from around the mid-90s. The boat as I recieved it is ready to run complete with an original Acoms Technisport wheel radio from the 80s & old 1700mah Ni-Cad

Now safely in my possesion & in good condition

[Jedi Master]

Being a lightweight boat, you'll be surprised how much of a difference a hotter brushed motor will make. Mtronics ESC's are fully waterproof and would be ideal for your first step.

A few other thingsto think about;

Keeping water out.......Always test the hull in the bath. Push it down into the water as far as you can before the level reaches the hatch. Check for leaks and seal any found with epoxy glue.

Bouyancy.........The 'what if' scenario always happens, so when you have all of the electrics installed, fill the space in the bow with polystyrene packaging or pool noodle. Then if you flip it over and water starts to ingress, it won't sink.

Hatch tape........Not sure how your hatch holds down, but whatever the method, always seal the hatch edges with decent tape, such as Renfrew Hockey tape. Don't use cellotape or electrical tape. I can send you some FOC if need, just PM me with your address

If water does get in.........save your electrics by putting a couple of Tampons in the hull. I know that sounds weird, but they will absorb any water way before it gets a chance to ruin your running gear.

Just noticed that you live in the UK, in Northants!!! I went to school in Rothwell and grew up in that area. Am back that way on a regular basis so could always be on hand to offer advice, or maybe bring a couple of my FE Boats to show you. That will really give you the boat-bug, as well as emptying your bank account! LOL!!

[mrlexan]

If water does get in.........save your electrics by putting a couple of Tampons in the hull. I know that sounds weird, but they will absorb any water way before it gets a chance to ruin your running gear.

Jedi gets the award for the tip of the year!

[Diggley]

If water does get in.........save your electrics by putting a couple of Tampons in the hull. I know that sounds weird, but they will absorb any water way before it gets a chance to ruin your running gear.

Jedi gets the award for the tip of the year!

Yeah, but that trick only works once a month..if you're lucky..

[DerbyDan]

Lol @ the tampon trick ..... but I can seriously see that it would work well

Jedi Master - thank you for the offer of the 'Hockey Tape' - i'll PM you my address... if I have just enough to seal it for a couple of runs.... then perhaps I can make an assessment as to how it goes/stays dry etc etc. To be honest I don't think I will be able to seal the hatch completely with the tape due to the design of the cover/hatch as it wraps around the rear of the boat (see the pic on page 1) The hatch itself is quite a large part that includes the two driver figures & covers the whole width of the rear of the boat with the spoiler attached. It is held on with Velcro pads & a continuous foam strip seals the edge.... I think that it would be better to remove the velcro as it causes the cover to sit high - then seal/secure it with your tape.

The design of the hull is in two mouldings creating a cavity between the hull itself & the radio tray/motor room - the only peircing through between the inner & outer mouldings is for the prop-shaft, the hole for the linkage to the rudder & the screws that secure the radio tray cover & for the motor fixings, also for the two screws that secure the rudder assembly to the back of the boat. However I will take your advice & add polestyrene blocks in the main compartment/stuck to the inside face of the cover/hatch - also seal the clear cover over the radio. Luckily where I work we manufacture metal shopfronts/windows & doors so theres plenty of silicone & glazing tape around to play around with

I'm glad you recommended the Mtronics brushed Esc - do you think I should go straight to the highest rated 40amp speedo or do you think one of the lower rated ones would be ok for say the 20 turn motor I mentioned?? As you say this boat is indeed very light - I think that it would certainly get a 'buffetting' on even a small pond in the winds we are experiencing at the moment.

I live/grew up in Wellingborough (for my sins ) And went to college in Corby, so spent a fair amount of time in and around 'Rowel' back then, as some of college buddies lived there. Jedi-Master, was you ever a car racer when you lived in the area? I started over at the Irchester club but raced my first outdoor meeting over at the 'Hunter Print' track in Corby... I then raced at & eventually ended up running the Burton Latimer car club... which has eventually evolved into the club that still exists in Kettering & race every Friday evening; http://www.ketteringmcc.co.uk/ I still regularly race there - your more than welcome to drop in one Friday if you are up this way

[USA-1]

I bought this about 20 yrs ago I'm surprise he still selling them, AC boats Pro 40 II Hydro. Came with a VHS video of this thing running and it was impressive. I never got it running.


K/B 7.5 inboard.

I think the throttle exhaust was the problem need to get a regular carb arrangement someday.

[Jedi Master]

Dan, PM me with your address so that I can send you the hockey tape!