RC10T box art restoration

[romulus22]

Yes

[unclemikey1978]

Awesome, will my original rear, three piece wheels work with them as well?

[romulus22]

Yep

[unclemikey1978]

Thanks!

[unclemikey1978]

So I've been stripping and sanding the chassis parts the last few days and I have to admit, I'm not too happy with my progress. I first used oven cleaner to strip the anodizing, which worked pretty well, before sanding down the parts, which didn't work very well. The chassis has deeper scratches in it than I thought, and most of them are under the transmission. If I continue to sand until they're smooth, the rear of the chassis will be extremely thin. This chassis is for a shelf queen so it will not be run, but my plan was to re-anodize it, but with these scratches being so deep, I think powder coating is going to be the way to go. Plus, the few companies locally that I've contacted about anodizing are very expensive. One quote was $115. The lowest powder coating quote has been $35. My question is what, if anything, can I do to fill these scratches? Will it hold up to being baked at 400 degrees?

I've also gotten all of the white parts separated into two freezer bags ready for their peroxide bath and all of the tires cleaned up. Can someone post a picture of the box tire that came on the team truck? I understand that there may have been a few different tires provided. Also, what is the part # for the one piece wheels that were used? Thanks to everyone for their help with this project.

[romulus22]

Wait till a new one pops up on Ebay. I bought a NIP chassis a couple years ago for what it would cost for you to powdercoat yours. If you want it done right just wait till the right stuff is available.


here's a decent one for example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-RC10-NEW-BLACK-TEAM-CHASSIS-BATTERY-BOX-REAR-BULKHEAD-WING-TUBES-NR-/270998427976?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f18c3d948

[unclemikey1978]

Yeah, I have that one saved already. It also has a bulkhead, which I need for another project.

[DHood]

You can use JB weld as filler, Just don't use the 5 min stuff, It's useless for anything. Just make sure the podercoater doesn't blast the prepped area. It will take it right out.

[Charlie don't surf]

The box art side cover and manual shows Proline RED pro 55 Fronts, and Pro 90 rears (smooth sidewall on both/no markings). The box cover is the stock narrow fronts. Again, this is assuming your doing a 7001 not a 7035-

[unclemikey1978]

Yes, I am building it as the #7001 truck, which is what I believe this truck was originally. I had thought it was a #7035 team Truck but after more research here on the forum, I'm leaning towards it being a #7001. I have most everything to do the build but I want to make sure the parts I have are correct. I have the thin front and rear shock towers with two mounting holes (the rear tower has a broken mounting point on it, looking for a new one), Narrow front wheels and tires, wide front wheels and tires, ball bearing stealth tranny, and the right front arms…at least I think they are. I saw a picture of all the different arms on this forum but I can't find it. Can someone post up a pic of the arms or post a link? Also, was the original rear tire #7020? Here's some more pics.

Bags of white parts all cleaned up and ready to be whitened.

Nose plate

A sweet set of old school Tekin decals!

When I opened up the Tekin reverse module, the stickers and one of the pieces of paperwork had some goo on them. Is there a safe way to remove this sticky stuff?

[unclemikey1978]

A few questions:

1) I need two new rear hub bearings. I found a few packs on eBay, but they're really expensive for two bearings. What are my options for a cheaper set of bearings?
2) How can I safely remove the goo off of my Tekin decals?
3) I found a few places locally that will powedercoat my chassis parts for cheap, but I'd really like to get it re-anodized. I've gotten some high quotes locally though. Can one of you guys lead me to a cheaper anodizer?
4) What are my chances of finding a set of rear #7020 tires these days?

[unclemikey1978]

Update:


I finished up rebuilding the shocks today as well as getting most of the rear end mocked up. Here's a few pics of the shock rebuild.

[foots]

I don't know if you guys have ever heard of Speedy its kinda like an aluminum brightner but will strip anodizing qiuicker than anything.

[Quikenuff]

1) I need two new rear hub bearings. I found a few packs on eBay, but they're really expensive for two bearings. What are my options for a cheaper set of bearings?

Not sure if this is higher or lower than the price your seeing but i have used VXB for other projects http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/1-4inch/R168ZZ-1

2) How can I safely remove the goo off of my Tekin decals?

Try rubbing alcohol

3) I found a few places locally that will powedercoat my chassis parts for cheap, but I'd really like to get it re-anodized. I've gotten some high quotes locally though. Can one of you guys lead me to a cheaper anodizer?

Best bet is try to get the local anodizer to throw yours in with another black batch. But IMO unless the chassis is like new, it's not worth reanodizing, at least powder coat or a paint on finish, the chassis can be filled and repairs before applying it.

4) What are my chances of finding a set of rear #7020 tires these days?

Sorry bud, eBay is about it. I've mostly been seeing them with rims.

Quik

[unclemikey1978]

Thanks for your reply. I found some bearings pretty cheap on eBay. I'm also bidding on some tires as well. Fingers crossed. I'll def try the rubbing alchol on the stickers. I think you're right about the powder coating my friend. The original chassis is just too chewed up to anodize. I bought another one that was in better shape on eBay, but it's still marked up pretty good. I have another chassis on it's way as well so I'm going to strip them all and get them coated at the same time. I'm sure I'll use the other two for other projects in the future. Thanks again.

On a side note, I did manage to get some rough assembly done over my weekend but nothing picture worthy as of yet. I also found a sweet motor for the truck ( Thanks NVWAX! ). More to come!