RC10 buggy mid motor project

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aeiou
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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by aeiou »

Looks great! :D

If you ever go with a LiPo saddle pack configuration, AE recently released a new carbon fiber cradle:

http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=9785&category=NULL

May even help to stiffen things up a bit.

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by lowrydesign »

[quote="Bugle"]Another option could be to put a battery down the centre then use B3 steering bellcranks and servo mounting position./quote]

so i measured out the length of a pack and the servo in the chassis and i still need about a half inch more to do it, the only way around that is to move every thing further back and lengthen the wheelbase.....are there ROAR rules on wheel base??

if you guys cant tell, im trying to avoid the saddle pack route...

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Mr. ED »

If you're willing to change the design with the tubes, you could go with a stick pack across the chassis. Like the first rc10's and tekin conversion

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by lowrydesign »

Mr. ED wrote:If you're willing to change the design with the tubes, you could go with a stick pack across the chassis. Like the first rc10's and tekin conversion
explain more......

currently i am running them transverse, its just hard to get them in and out.........

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Mr. ED »

Cut the middle section from the tubes and attach them to a post at the front and a second post behind the battery.
Too those same posts attach a small hinging topdeck that you clip on with bodyclips.

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by lowrydesign »

so here is what i came up with guys... and it works well
** to make stick packs work lengthwise:

1-move the nose plate to truck length, drill new 4-40 holes in crash tubes
2-losi xx steering moved a bit closer together--- this will work with normal length cars without the need to move it closer, only reason i did this was--
-with the nose plate set at long wheel base, the crash tubes will interfere with the bell cranks
-when the nose is set for standard length steering will work as long as the tubes are cut right behind the 4-40 hole
Image
Image

steering is more smoother than the standard style cranks.. and packs fit lengthwise!!

the next chassis that i mid motor, i plan on moving the whole rear end far enough back so that i can put the nose plate in the shorter setting so steering clears with out narrowing it up and still fit a stick pack lengthwise.
also im not going to cut up the next chassis as much.......

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Bugle »

Maybe a low profile servo might just give you enough room to make it possible to mount the noseplate in the short position?

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Chewbacca »

Bugle wrote:Maybe a low profile servo might just give you enough room to make it possible to mount the noseplate in the short position?
You beat me to the low profile...

But you might want to check out low profile in this config:

thats a low profile servo standing up, with RC10GT steering setup. 7 cell conversion, standard nose length.

Thats my car and steers pretty good.

Image
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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Asso_man! »

Chewbacca wrote: Thats my car and steers pretty good.
Yeah and it looks like it's the only thing it can do :lol:
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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by klavy69 »

Asso_man! wrote:
Chewbacca wrote: Thats my car and steers pretty good.
Yeah and it looks like it's the only thing it can do :lol:
Looks can be deceiving...I had a 3 legged dog that got around great :mrgreen:
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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by scr8p »

why don't you try using a custom works enforcer/intimidator bellcrank........ but layed down like how they use it on the barts sprint car. it would give you PLENTY of room. the only issue might be the servo horn hitting the nose brace tube.

they're cheap enough to give it a try.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTD1&P=SM

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by Mr. ED »

scr8p wrote:why don't you try using a custom works enforcer/intimidator bellcrank........ but layed down like how they use it on the barts sprint car. it would give you PLENTY of room. the only issue might be the servo horn hitting the nose brace tube.

they're cheap enough to give it a try.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNTD1&P=SM
That looks like a great idea for some of my projects. Thanks!
Do you know where I could find an online manual for these and other customworks cars?

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by hypertek »

any pics with teh body? im curious how it looks with it on.

But looks pretty cool non the less.

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by 92lxcoupe »

I did something like this when I was 12 (about 20 years ago). Definitely not quite as thought out as yours, as I did not have the additional bracing. Mine was about as rigid as a wet noodle! Pretty cool set up you have.

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Re: RC10 buggy mid motor project

Post by scr8p »

92lxcoupe wrote:Mine was about as rigid as a wet noodle!
sorry to hear that. you know...... they do make a pill for that now. :wink: :mrgreen: j/k

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