Part Differences - Old vs. New

Everything pertaining to the RC10 buggy re-releases.
Classic, Classic Clear, World's, etc...

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by SteveK »

Ah, I just found my old-timey manuals, I see that is what they did.

What about the mod of adding larger bearings in place of the felt seals? Probably only necessary with higher power outputs?

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by scr8p »

those are 3/8 x 5/8. same as a stealth outdrive.

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by WebSteve »

ChisaiKuso wrote:
WebSteve wrote:I can already say that all plastic left- and right-handed parts have an "L" or "R" molded in, where the original RC10 did not. This is not apparent in the photos (the other side is shown).
After recently purchasing a bunch of new black RC10 parts, I have some questions about the re-release parts.
  • 1) Some of the black parts have "L" and "R" markings on them. These markings are raised and easily scraped off with a hobby knife. Is it the same for the re-release parts? In other words, are the "L" and "R" recessed in the parts (so they can't be removed) or are they raised on the parts (easily removed)?

    2) Some of the molds have gotten absolutely horrible through the years. The battery cups have excess material on them. The two halves of the front carrier blocks aren't lined up properly when joined, and the space for the steering block on the left front carrier blocks is too large resulting in excessive up and down movement of the steering block. I have seen flaws like these on every set of battery cups and front carrier blocks that I've purchased at different times throughout the past two years or more. Are the re-release parts being made from the same molds, or have the molds been repaired or replaced?
Please let us know. Thanks.
I can answer 1). Don't know about 2). The L and R are actually flush with the part while around it in a disc shape it sinks in. Only way to scrape it off is to scrape off the entire surface down to the depth of the disc indentation surrounding the letters.

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by JK Racing »

have new parts in hand, I can vouch for WebSteve, you cant scr8p off the L or R on the rear arm mounts :)
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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by flipwils11 »

JK Racing wrote:have new parts in hand, I can vouch for WebSteve, you cant scr8p off the L or R on the rear arm mounts :)
That thar is funny, yessirree :lol:

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by JK Racing »

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :lol: :lol: 8)
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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by RC10resto »

The Box

Image
Image
Image

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by clm »

Ooooh Pretty!

Chris
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-Bashers under contruction- Jrx2

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by JK Racing »

how did you get your grubby paws on those pics?
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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by RC10resto »

you hit the chrome button on the camera :P

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by JK Racing »

:) got me there...where did you get a box from? I keep seeing 10-15 as "the" date?
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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by littleVETTE »

looks like a golden years rc legends photo. maybe for this just past weekends legends gathering.

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by WebSteve »

RC10resto wrote:The Box
Sorry I missed you at the Golden Years meeting, Brian. I decided to go after all, then felt extremely tired. The day's event before had wiped me out.

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by THE H.P FREAK »

HI!... Here's a question. What about the body paint? For years now guys have been mixing different colours of paint to get that perfect shade of RC-10 burnt orange. Now that this car is being re-released, does AE have any plans to produce a perfect colour match in spray can form?
102 RC vehicles and counting...

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Re: Part Differences - Old vs. New

Post by jwscab »

Tamiya camel yellow is really really close if not spot on for the boxart.

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