I love this Forum! Here is my ride.

[MOmo]

Im all over the towers. Id be down for a couple of sets.


I am very impressed with this car and how it has been developed. I too race a vintage and would LOVE to make it more competitive. I feel improved towers would help quite a bit. Very impressed with what i see in your car. Digging the anodized chassis as well.



MOmo

[wyldbill]

cool nose wing on the #8 car.

[Chewbacca]

Hey Siebenelch,

those are really beautyful cars!!

Since you're doing what i also like, "modern vintage" in a MUCH more professional way and you even race, you should really consider the worlds front setup with the rpm narrow rear conversion. I think due to the more centered roll center the handling should improve noticably. I also saw your weight up front. You might want to consider what I did with my buggy.

After modifiying my RC10T to fit 7 cell Packs (see pics) I wanted the same for my buggy. BUT I couldn't do that the same way due to the longer wheel base of the Truck. Instead I installed a GT sevo saver, and a low profile servo standing up. That way I gained the needed space.

I am not saying you should race with 7 cells, but it would give you more options to position the battery pack for weight distribution.

My Buggy is currently in my cellar, and I don't have any pics of the conversion, only from the truck.

Hope this can help for future races.

[siebenelch]

Hello Chewbacca!

What you did is crazy! 7 cells with BL-power!!! Nice high speed truck!

Your steering is interesting. I always search for the Masami hirosaka-Steering. I think, it´s from a Yokomo-car with a hand-made steering plate.

You bended the tubes to get space for the steering, right?

I own the RPM-RC10T front end, but I dont want use them. I want to keep the original-style.

If I make the steering, like Masami, I can put the battery much more forward. That will be my next step!

Thanks!

Michael

[Chewbacca]

Hey Siebenelch nice that you like my "crazy" setup

This link shows the setup above in an early stage doing a
BACKFLIP

hope you like...

Now, back to steering setups. Yes you are right, I had to bend the nose tubes to make that steering work.

You can leave your current steering setup the way it is, just use a low profile servo standing up (aufrecht stehend) as close to the steering as possible. That way the servo itself is a bit more foreward, and you gail a 7-cell space for better weight positioning. I just used the GT steering, 'cause it's a perfect fit and I prefer those kind of servo savers over the kind mounted directly on the servo.

[wyldbill]

if you can find a set of aluminum sassy chassy belcranks they have the rod mount straight out the back instead of out the side. this would allow you to mount the servo sideways, i recently got a set from skunk werks and plan on doing the same thing on a future build. here is what they look like http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4451&p=42420&hilit=sassy+chassy#p42420

[adam lancia]

Actually, A&L made a set of bellcranks with the same setup but I think it was for a Yokomo...?

Michael: What steering arms (spindles?) are you using on your car? Thanks!

[m_vice]

Hey Michael you could also use the RC10T or RC10GT steering screws and a B2 or B3 steering Servo Saver Kit, you will probable need to cut the chassis tubes. I haven’t mounted it on a tub but yes on a flat chassis.

[Dr. Robotnik]

Nice steering ideas guys, I am copying Masami on one of my builds...

[Chewbacca]

that is my standing low profile 7-cell conversion that I mentioned before.

It might be interesting for you racers for better weight distribution WITHOUT adding extra weight.

[Asso_man!]

Hey Michael, could you tell me what kind of shock set-up you used to race with the RC10T rear shock tower? Where did you anchor the shocks up and down and did you use inside/outside limiters? Thanks!

Cheers,

David

[siebenelch]

Hi!

I use normally very soft springs. Green and brown springs.

With the RC10T shock tower i used the inner/lower holes for B4 shocks. In this configuration you have a little less down-travel. So I put a 6x2mm-shim (Take Off) between the ball-end and the shock shaft-thread to get a little more down-travel.

Maybe it´s the best to use RC10T-Rear shocks. The longest AE-shocks of all. So you have to try different shock-positions at the shock-stay.

I always use the outer position at the A-Arm.

You only have to keep an eye on your driveshafts. I try always to get maximum down-travel without losting the driveshafts from the Drive-cups.

If you push your car on the ground, the chassis-bottom must get contact to ground. If your shocks block before touching the ground, you have to use a higher shock-position at the shock-stay.

Same way at the front-shocks (if possible).

I feel, if I take soft shock-oil, the car gets better and better in this configuration. I use 20-30wt-shock-oil front and rear.

I installed anti-roll-bars at the front and rear. For my opinion the handling of the car is much better now. Especially the front anti-roll-bar helps a lot an high grip-tracks.

And I always use the 30 degree front hub carriers for more grip.

To avoid the extremely bump-steering of the original steering, I put 4mm spacers under the ball-ends of the steering knuckles. That helps a lot and reduce the bump steering until nearly zero.

Hope that will help you! More informations at the Vintage-Nationals. Haha! I hope, you will be there!

Michael

[call-911]

Did you fabricate your own roll bar Michael or did you use one from a newer kit?

[siebenelch]

I made new anti-roll-bars by myself from 1.5mm piano wire.

Michael

[minimini]

Hello there!

Thank you very much for the comments!

This car is not 100% ready. There are some little things to do. I hope, I can start racing soon.

Here are some chassis-pics.

Michael

is there any advantage using the "HPI D-box" in off-road race ??.......