New to me RC10 Team Car on the way

[Peter_B]

One problem I did find when stripping the car was the steering bell cranks. Wherever a ball stud was screwed in the bell cranks had cracked.

Don't know whether it was due to age or over tightening when the ball studs were installed.

Are they a known weak point?

I've got a set of world's re-re bell cranks on the way, and the parts for the linkage to the servo, to replace them.

[lmw94002]

If you crank it down tight the plastic will get brittle with time and crack. Not uncommon, but if the car was not really run... For racing and running you can definitely improve the steering with new bell crank. For restoration, the original style really isn't hard to get.

With a bell crank, I still run a servo saver out of habit though. Nice old school kimbrough ones... Lol.

[jwscab]

the original steering parts were a different plastic blend and most cracked if the owner didn't tap or open up the holes slightly. just set them aside with the rest of the original parts in case you ever decide to take it back to stock.

the re-re bellcranks are a much nicer setup. Funny though, the factory drivers used the original style for quite some time.

[Peter_B]

the original steering parts were a different plastic blend and most cracked if the owner didn't tap or open up the holes slightly. just set them aside with the rest of the original parts in case you ever decide to take it back to stock.

the re-re bellcranks are a much nicer setup. Funny though, the factory drivers used the original style for quite some time.

Setting them aside is exactly what I plan to do. Those and any other parts or hardware that I replace will get out in a plastic tub and stored with the original box and body.

[bluewormx]

^^Peter_B


The bellcranks is a known issue. The plastic deteriorates with age and since it is under stress because the balls are self tapped into place.
Tapping out the holes with a UNC 4-40 tap "should" aleviate the problem. I'll tell you in 20 years time

The re re bellcranks also have a known issue, the nuts will go on really tight. The best solution is to tap them out to UNC 8-32.
Another solution "not very elegant" is to sand the barrel part of the nut until they can be inserted in the bushings/bearings.

[Peter_B]

^^Peter_B


The bellcranks is a known issue. The plastic deteriorates with age and since it is under stress because the balls are self tapped into place.
Tapping out the holes with a UNC 4-40 tap "should" aleviate the problem. I'll tell you in 20 years time

The re re bellcranks also have a known issue, the nuts will go on really tight. The best solution is to tap them out to UNC 8-32.
Another solution "not very elegant" is to sand the barrel part of the nut until they can be inserted in the bushings/bearings.

Does the but not go into the bearings by default then?

I haven't seen an assembled setup, just thought it would from looking at the pictures.

[jwscab]

I think you are asking if the 'nut' does not go into the bearing.

The re-re kit actually uses bushings. You can alternatively switch them out to bearings to alleviate the binding. The plastic nut increases in OD when self tapping the 8-32 screws. If tapped, there should be no issue. If you don't have a tap, you can also sand the barrel. For me, it was easier just to swap to bearings. They fit tight but no binding once installed.

[Peter_B]

I think you are asking if the 'nut' does not go into the bearing.

The re-re kit actually uses bushings. You can alternatively switch them out to bearings to alleviate the binding. The plastic nut increases in OD when self tapping the 8-32 screws. If tapped, there should be no issue. If you don't have a tap, you can also sand the barrel. For me, it was easier just to swap to bearings. They fit tight but no binding once installed.

Yes that's what I was asking. Silly fat fingers on my phone to blame there.

I ordered bearings to go with the bell cranks anyway as I don't have the bushings.

[jwscab]

if you ordered just the re-re bellcrank kit, it comes with the bushings. But the bearings are a good idea.

[Peter_B]

if you ordered just the re-re bellcrank kit, it comes with the bushings. But the bearings are a good idea.

I ordered #6254

It turned up today with no bushings in the packet. There also aren't any pictures when viewing that part on the Associated website.

Is there another part number that would have included more than just the bell cranks, nuts and spacers?

[lmw94002]

I think 6252 might be the other part number.

[Peter_B]

I think 6252 might be the other part number.

Oh yes that does come with everything! Oh well, I've got the other parts now and bearings on the way.

Only problem might be my mounting screws are longer than those in that kit, but as the nuts are open ended it ought to be ok.

Also the Team KNK stainless set, that I have to collect from the post office tomorrow, might have the right length ones.

[Peter_B]

I've now stripped the transmission. Everything seems to be in good condition, apart from either there was no thrust spring in the diff or I dropped it without realising. Either way I don't seem to have one.

I had a problem with one of the bearings that the top shaft runs on. It would not slip past the hole for the roll pin. It was a proper **** to get off and took a fair bit of force.

Is it usual for bearings to stick there? Or is there a fault with the top shaft? I can't feel any sticking spots with my fingers.

[lmw94002]

Sometimes the diff spring is stuck down in the out drive and you don't even realize it.

The top shaft can get the slightest ding or scuff when the roll pin gets inserted and makes getting the bearing off a tough job. Very high grit sand paper right around the roll pin to help polish up the shaft and get any edges smooth may help. I have very fine grit sanding sticks I've used to make sure the shaft is smooth. Just make sure you provide even force on the bearing when you really push to avoid blowing up the bearing.

[Peter_B]

I looked in the out drive and couldn't see any sign of the spring.

I found a new one for a good price and the same place also had a new top shaft so I ordered that as well to make the most of the postage.

I'll try giving the top shaft a bit of a sand. I've got new bearings for the transmission so I wasn't too worried about damaging the old one but it did eventually come off in one piece.