Okay I just got these and they are my first so being that I am not that knowledgeable at identifying the multiple variations of this chassis,what exactly is it that I have here??
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They call me.........THE COLLECTOR!! Collector and restorer of everything vintage
Thank you sir!!!! I don't think they are bad at all for the $80 I spent on both RTR with everything you see in the pics.The first one I just finished doing a complete teardown and rebuild and while I was at it made a carbon brace for the top of the trans to replace the stock plastic one.The second car has yet to be done. Whats with the black part in the my CE'S steering linkage and the black shock caps,are they from a newer black plastic equipped RC10??
Restored
This one is a little worse off but still not bad,the front nose is dented in and it has more scratches,the diff shaft has a little play in it also making me think that the bearings/bushings are worn out. The front aluminum side pipes are bent also so I am thinking he had a hard front end impact at some point.You can see the damage in the first front end pics I posted. Hopefully I can pound that dent out somehow without damageing the anodizing.
They call me.........THE COLLECTOR!! Collector and restorer of everything vintage
the top one is the original rc10 gold pan. if you remove the motor, you will see the letter "A" stamped in to the chassis.
this is the 1984 version.the first gold pan.
the other one with the green motor is a "B" or "C" stamped gold tub. those came with better transmissions than the original did.also the front control arms are different from the 1984.
rc10 gold pans look the same, but they are differnt in many ways! all the parts are interchangeable.. the only thing you cant do is install a stealth trans in to the "A" stamped tub, you can do it if you drill, but drilling is not nice.
these all are different on the A, B,C stamped gold pans.
front A arms, rear A arms, front shock towers , rear shock towers, bulk head,transmissions, but these are all interchangeable.
your cars appear to be period correct (meaning that they appear to have the original parts) the one with the wholes in the wheels, i dont think those were factory,
im still learnig about these goldpans, the B and C ones any way, the original 1984 cars i can build them by the book with out the book. nice cars though, id do a resto and shelf em!!
"your attitude in general and had robbed you of any credibility in my opinion. honesty costs nothing by the way."
a quote from Bormac. i think he's rite.
you can probably bend the nose plate back slowly and gently in a vise, with a cloth or thick paper on the vise jaws to prevent scratching the anodizing. If the aluminum is stretched far enough that is has hairline cracks, there isn't much you can do to make that go away, sometimes bending back into place closes up the cracks so they practically dissapear though.
It's funny as I rememebr my brothers friend having a really hot rc10 back in 87 or so, but when I had my first chance to get a real rc car when I was 9 or so I chose the tamiya king cab, cool car, until the friggan chassis broke lol.
Anyhow,...
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I went and bought some more underbelly gold screws today along wth new strut bottoms, new battery tray screws,, new roll pins for th rear stub axles and probably something else. I'm getting ready to clean the second car which has some ghetto crap...
They say they will be available in late november, in white or yellow.
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That's a bummer, I have plenty of B3/Phoenix wheels already. I was under the impression that these would be a direct fit 2.2 wheel for my gold pan, instead of having to order wheels from the uk.
okay i have a few questions. the edinger and caddilac gold pans have a few different parts.
the caddilac gold pans came in boxes that had the caddilac address, some still came in edinger boxes, but is the picture on the box the same? also the...
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Thanks to Brandon for the wheels, they look great. The gold anodized centers have more of a copper tone to them than the tamiya plating, which is more yellow, but I think they look good together.
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you have to be careful with the teu101 that comes in with the kits. it has 2 wires that go to the rx, one is for the battery, the other is for ch2. it puts full voltage to the rx, so you have to use a BEC receiver. I did not realize this at first...
Hello All. I've had an interest in vintage RC10s ever since I remember reading about the worlds and RC10T kits in the magazines as a kid. I figured now is a good time to get into it with the ReRes out. I just traced a TC4 for what you see in the...
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I won an auction for some front end parts for the second car. Once I have them in I'll be doing a cleanup of all of the plastics.
So, this was my first rear RC, bought with a lot of hard-earned lawn mowing/snow shoveling/pet sitting money back in '94 when I was 12. I ran it until the MSC burned up, then it got shelved. I got back into RC when I was 19, but I was into nitro...
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Hard on my kits sounds like an understatement.
Well, I prefer to look at it as most manufacturers just not building them tough enough :wink:
It's one reason I won't waste my time with Traxxas, though. Save for the Revo, their stuff breaks if I...
How different are these?
I can see the thread look=s a bit bigger on the AE but it could be only a color difference.
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I like MIP stuff, but when it comes to shock shafts, I have found the coating on the MIP's to wear off sooner than others. However, they are usually cheaper. -Jeff