Newbie with 10T questions

[KevinRC10T]

I'm new here but kind of an old timer when it comes to RC. I currently own 3 RC10T's that I would love to update w/ newer electronics. All 3 trucks have RPM 2.65 Transmissions, T3 slippers, full ball-bearings, and several other upgrades. These are mainly backyard bashers and occasionally might be taken to a track for open practice. I don't think I need to go as far as brushless or LiPo batteries, but I want something that's gonna run fast w/ reasonable run times. I have older 2000 stick packs and an older Pro-Tech charger which I'm assuming should be updated also. Money isn't really an object but I'm not looking to break the bank either. What's a good motor, ESC, battery, & charger? I currently have 81t spur gears on all 3 trucks. What size pinion should I be running?

Sorry for all the questions, any help would be great!

[PBR Allstar]

I'm going to go ahead and jump in here in an attempt to help you out. Not sure what you currently have as far as ESC's and motors, but if you have good brushed stuff now why not just run what you have? If you have to buy new ESC's and Motors I would strongly reccomend going brushless. I stuck to brushed stuff for a LOOOONNNGG time, but when I finally made the jump, I was very happy. the cost of buying a new novak havoc is not much more than buying a decent esc and 19T brushed motor. The brushless stuff is nice, runs better, for longer, once it's geared right you don't have any heat issues, almost no maintainence, etc.

Now, as far as your battery situation goes. if you're gonna buy some new packs, just go lipo and get a charger. Chargers can be had cheap, I'm sure there are some good recommendations for an economical lipo charger out there. for good packs to get going I'm sure there are a couple other opinions out there, but I have a couple of the smc sport max 6000mah packs, which I really like and will run them in competition as well when I need to.

as far as the cost goes, the return is more long term, even though you get benefits right out of the box. Look at an SMC 5200 24c pack from tower, it's 75 dollars, a 5000 duratrx nimh pack is 60 dollars. That extra 15 dollars will give you a pack that will retain it's original performace for 200 cycles rather than 20 cycles. The lipo batteries give better run performace offering a higher peak voltage over a longer period of time than a nimh or a nicad. Then there's the fact that they don't care if you pull them out of the car and put them back on the charger where nimh packs do not really like this kind of treatment.

Again, it's totally up to you, if I were you though, there would be no question on the lipo thing, just make the jump, and like I said, if you have some brushed stuff that works, keep running it for now, and if you have to buy new stuff, think about going brushless.

On top of all that, talk to some local racers, most of them have switched to brushless so ofter you can find really good deals on high end, well cared for brushed esc's and motors

[KevinRC10T]

Hey, thanks a bunch for the speedy reply! This was the 1st place I thought of to ask these questions. Some of the younger guys that work at the local hobby stores can be a pain to deal with. The motors and ESC's I have are just like the 10T's, all from the 90's & pretty outdated. Do you think that brushed motors and NiMH/Nicad batteries will someday be totally obsolete? I'm gonna start looking into the brushless systems & LiPo batteries more now. I've always liked Novak's products so that will be where I start.

If I have any updates, I'll be sure to post up. Thanks again!

[PBR Allstar]

No Problem Kevin, glad we could help out and welcome to the board.

as far as brushed and traditional cell batteries becoming obsolete.... I kind of think the hobby is right at the changing point as we speak. If you have the brushed stuff though I say run it til you need to replace it, unless the money thing to buy new gear is a non issue? In which case I'm with you, I've always been a novak fan, I have two GTB systems, and a havoc system, although, the one point where novak is behind the other manufactures is the user interface with the speed control programing, I've played with the tekin system with the hotwire, and own a mamba system in my 1/18th scale latemodel and their castle link is pretty cool, way better than counting blinking lights and holding buttons. If you're looking for a basher system I might suggest looking at the castle mamba systems, if you plan on racing I'd check to see what your track allows or what is popular.

back to the lipo batteries for a second, one thing I forgot to mention is that lipo's do not like being over discharged, it will damage the packs. most new esc's have "lipo cutoff" which will interupt power to the motor when the battery gets to a certain point. if you run lipo with a an older esc you can either be careful not to over discharge (watch how long you run vs. how many mah it takes to recharge the battery, very similar to how much mileage you get when you fill the tank on your car) or, you can get a lipo cutoff switch which wires in line between your esc and receiver, novak sells a nice one. I found the lipo thing pretty intimidating when I got back into rc, but after running them and charging them a couple times you'll be an old pro.

lastly, never mind the kids at the hobby shop they've probably never even built a kit!

[KevinRC10T]

Ok, Novak lists 7 different Brushless Systems w/ 8.5, 10.5, & 17.5 turn motors.

What can the Stealth trans handle?

Any recommendation as to which system to go with?

Havoc Sport Sensored
Havoc Spec
Havoc 1S / SS Pro
Havoc 3S/Ballistic
Havoc Pro/Ballistic
GTB/SS Pro
Kinetic/Ballistic

[PBR Allstar]

there should be a 13.5 system in there as well. If you go with a sport system like the Havoc I would keep it to a 10.513.5 motor, which is about the same as a 19T brushed motor, if you want something hotter than that I would look at getting the GTB system. the reason behind this, and this is my own personal experience, is that the havoc seems to run a little hotter than the GTB, I think this might be do to it's higher internal resistance? They are both excellent systems, and in 13.5 classes I've run the Havoc in competition before without any complaints. Again, I would base this choice on what local are running if you plan to go to the track (even if you don't plan on racing and just doing practice days, it's nice to have the same setup as the guys racing, make for better sparring on practice days)

As far as what the stealth can handle motor wise, the transmission is plenty capable of handling a very powerful motor, 8.5 should be no problem, the main things you need to watch for are slipper and diff adjustment. I run various versions of the stealth on dirt oval, including the original 2.25 version and with the torque of the brushless system you either have to run a slipper or keep the diff on the tight side. A few times I've gotten lazy about adjusting the diff and melted the diff gear (I don't run slipper clutches traditionally). so I would say run the slipper and just set it up so it gives a little bit on take off, not a lot, I usually see people with slippers way too loose and sounds more like a clutch on a snow mobile. just set it up so the slipper give before the diff.

[KevinRC10T]

Hey thanks for all your help, once again! I should have a pretty good setup in the next week or two.

[mc10ce]

Hey cool thread and great questions! I have been wondering about some of those same things since i've been "out of the game" for a while. The bulk of my electronics are old school (except my LRP esc) and I hope to be able to update and take advantage of the new tech stuff soon. Anyways thanks for the info.

[Brandon G]

Excellent combo deal here. I'm sure they would ship to you.... Tell them you heard about it from Brandon Giles.
http://www.nashrcracer.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4185

http://www.whitehousehobbies.com/

[vintage racer]

I would like to see NMHI batteries obselite.The larger capacities are so unreliable and I dont think they have a place on the market.No value for money.Allthough brushless is great I will stick to my brushed systems.There is nothing wrong with an old Novak hammer or a GM V12 etc.Its great that brushless came out and made all these brushed speedos so cheap now plus I like to run and see my old brushed motor in my old cars.Deffinetly go lipo,you will enjoy your electric cars on a totally higher level but I would say if your brushed systems still perform why change.Unless you have a whole heap of gear ratios to try and pleanty of time to work it out then stick to your brushed.Hell who doesnt enjoy skimming an arm on the com lathe ?:mrgreen:

[m_vice]

So, can you use a lipo on an old Novak like a M5 or 410 Hpc?

[vintage racer]

I am useing them with an old Novak 610[think thats the model]and havent had a drama.Its only an extra .2 of a volt.I know some of the old Novaks could handle up to 10 cells so they wouldnt have a drama.

[KevinRC10T]

Interesting! Since I have 3 RC10T's I'm only going brushless with one of them. Maybe I'll try running one of the others brushed w/ a lipo pack.

I agree w/ Vintage, it's nice now that all the older ESC's & batteries are so cheap!

[slotcarrod]

I run all my old Novak, Tekin and Futaba esc's with 7.4 volt 2 cell lipo packs. No problem! Just remember when you notice a power drop, STOP the car! You do not want to get below 6 volts on a 7.4v lipo!

[KevinRC10T]

I run all my old Novak, Tekin and Futaba esc's with 7.4 volt 2 cell lipo packs. No problem! Just remember when you notice a power drop, STOP the car! You do not want to get below 6 volts on a 7.4v lipo!

Isn't that what the Novak Smart-Stop Li-Po Cut-Off Module is for? If so, I'd definitely pick one up.