TRX-1 Build - ALMOST Done.

[mikedealer]

picked this up for $15.00, couldnt resist, new body, not sure if its a trx1 or something else.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230403107499&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

build pix once i start and recieve it lol

[klavy69]

You stole that but then again when someone doesn't know how to list something its their fault . Congrats. The chassis looks to have been 'narrowed' and drilled but other than that you have a great lookin runner there. Keep us posted on how it turns out.
Todd

[Konich]

Thats a nice TRX-1! Great price for $15 dollars. I think thats a protoform body?

I do have a lot of NIP parts, in fact I have that missing belcrank if your interested just PM me Mike.

[mikedealer]

hey i will, gonna see whats in that box, hopefully some good stuff lol. any repro bodies out there yet?

[Konich]

If you find one let me know, thats the last thing I really need for my Scott Montgomery Replica.

[Jay Dub]

Show us an underside pic of the car, I would bet it is a composite craft chassis. Looks like there are an extra set of holes just in front of the bulkhead. I presume this is to move the rear end forward to shorten the wheelbase on the car. -Jeff

[markt311]

looks like a protoform body to me, I think it was called the Javelin.

[mikedealer]

ya it was called the javelin. i dont know what it looks like whether its a single window or what, but guess we'll see.

i plan to make a new chassis and top plate for this, ala composite craft. just gotta find a source for some carbon fiber with a kickup, im sure i can get some somewhere lol

[harry697]

You stole that but then again when someone doesn't know how to list something its their fault .
Todd

You got that right! You know I would have easily paid triple that price if I had only known where to find the auction.


Anyways,congrats on the purchase! Can't wait to see how it turns out!

[Jay Dub]

That is not a javelin body. Or at least not like the ones I just sold on e-bay. They look similar, but do not have the hood scoops. I can post pics if people want. -Jeff

[mikedealer]

ok,i got a bunch of questions here.. if anyone can help, even with 1 that would be great.

1. Will Current RPM arms work on the trx1 here?
like here? http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/traxxas/SandR1.htm

2. Will the RPM gear cover work like here?
http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/traxxas/SandR3.htm

3. Where can i find battery boxes for the trx1? did they ever make a replacement/something that will work?

4. Steering? What can i use, will A&L steering work if i make a new bar possibly? Do they make a suitable replacement easier to find?

5. Axles/Front Steering, does RPM Products work? DO they make a replacement?

6. Rear Hubs, Does RPM Make new ones that will fit?



Shocks i found on tower, Tranny is in good shape, CVD's (which use the yoke ends), i believe i found the parts on tower that should be fine for maintenance. Front Bumper i found too.

ANy help would be great

[The Fuhrer]

I know the Bandit gear cover does not fit.

Front Steering blocks & wheel spindles -Original- #2737 can be changed with #2536

Castor blocks - Original- # 2723 can be changed with #2634R

Rear hubs - Original - #2752- can be changed with #1952

Battery tray: Rc10 trays fit rather well

As far as I know all the later part #'s are current. LHS has been very helpful with Traxxas parts.

I'll get some pics of my runner up shortly.

[markt311]

nitro rustler front arms are a good replacement, the electric version is different and won't work. A&L steering should work, like you said probably cut out a new tie bar. Almost everything else is still available through www.buytraxxas.com or tower. some parts come up on ebay pretty often and usually go for cheap.

Good luck

[drbelleville]

Hey Mike,

You can fill the holes with some epoxy, so they dont get hung up and further destroy the chassis. Also it will stiffen it up a bit. Here is a pic of an RC10L chassis that I just could not get myself to throw away.

[kenooze]

Well

I have a good solution to repare such extra holes.
Put a plate of steel under the chassis, and press it to the chassis.
Put in the hole from the opposite side, a small drop of cyano glue and recover it with carbon powder (usually I file a piece of carbon plate to collect enougth powder). The powder will mix with the glue. And another drop of glue and powder etc...
when you have enougth hard mixture, you could sand the extra material.

That's my tips for such thing