Updated RC10T

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Bolt
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Updated RC10T

Post by Bolt »

So after cleaning out a closet and coming across my old RC stuff I started browsing the net and found these boards. After reading a few of your posts and finding a local dirt track that was near my house it renewed my interest in the hobby. I just thought I would share some of my pics.

This is pretty much how she came out of the box.
Image

As you can see the body is shot
Image

...and here she is with a new fitted body, Proline Tires, RPM front bumper & rims (I know it’s a pre-painted body I also bought a clear body the I intend to do a custom paint job on, but this will get me by while i relearn my driving skills).
Image

One last one with the renewed RC10T next to my 1st RC truck a Kyosho Ultima Outlaw truck I got when I was 10years old.
Image

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cyclepsych0  It’s my birthday!
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by cyclepsych0 »

Very nice resurrection of your truck! :wink: Although I do like that old thrasher mag sticker on the old body... 8)

I have that same road hawg's-on-RPM-wheels setup on my GT. I love those tires! Rears don't last to long behind an O.S. .18 engine though! :lol:
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SteveK
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by SteveK »

Are those RPM Torkerz?

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Bolt
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by Bolt »

cyclepsych0 wrote:Although I do like that old thrasher mag sticker on the old body... 8)
I wish there was a way to save the old body but it has become hard and brittle I bet 1 good roll over and it would crack right down the middle.
SteveK wrote:Are those RPM Torkerz?

Yes they are RPM Torkerz with Proline Speed Hawg 2.2" Street Truck Tires

I also grabed a set of Proline Bow-Tie 2.2" Off-Road Truck Tires for off road action. Dunno if a want to run the Torkerz on the dirt tires though... may use the black ones for that.

I'm running a speed gems ruby motor and have no idea what to even look for in a new motor... suggestions?

I have read about people doing brushless conversions but they also seems to tear up a lot of parts and it looks like the parts for the 10T are starting to dry up. I grabbed what parts I could from RPM (extra arms and such). I know at one time you could get every part on the chassis to build a custom 10t but that days are gone now :-(

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DHood
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by DHood »

I like the old body too. Shoe Goo works great for fixing and reinforcing old and new bodys

SteveK
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by SteveK »

They look chromed; did they come that way or did you do something to them? Mine are aluminum finish, same as listed on the website.

You can still get ALMOST every 10T part new; the only major ones are the chassis, nose plate, rear bulkhead, shock tower, motor plate, stock tranny case, and rear arm mounts. The entire front end, tranny internals, and the rest of the rear suspension hardware are still sold. There are enough used RC10s and 10Ts and GTs out there that you can still get a rolling chassis for parts for cheap. I did bought several last summer and except for a few damaged parts like hinge pins, they could all be revived with a good cleaning and a little attention.

You can use the T4 top shaft and slipper clutch, which can withstand the power of a brushless motor. The rest of the truck? Well, don't crash so much and you won't break as much :lol:

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bully
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by bully »

I been running my 10T Team truck with 8.5 novak sport setup with totally stock stealth for ages now and haven't busted anything yet,done more damage to my SC10 with 10.5, tranny has been in and out several times. I must add i have never busted anything else on it but and AE have been awesome with there customer support.

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Bolt
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by Bolt »

DHood wrote:I like the old body too. Shoe Goo works great for fixing and reinforcing old and new bodys
I thought about getting some washers and shoe glue to fill the huge holes in the body but then I asked myself if $20 was too much to spend on getting a new body for it.

Although I did have to come up with an interesting fix for relocating the rear body mounts…

Image

Image

I had thoughts cutting and shaving an aluminum sheet or buying a sheet of carbon fiber and cutting it to size and then while I was diging around for some tools my expired gym membership card popped out of a drawer and I thought what the hell it’s the right size and it flexible enough to not bend or break in a roll over. Drilled a few holes and a few screws and nuts later walla! Body is mounted! I plan on sanding it down and painting it black and maybe trimming it down some but hey it’s a quick fix!

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Bolt
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by Bolt »

SteveK wrote:They look chromed; did they come that way or did you do something to them? Mine are aluminum finish, same as listed on the website.
They came that way I thought they were going to be a flat sliver but the chrome looks great so I'm not complaining!

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Bolt
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by Bolt »

ok so i went to the track today and my old truck is really getting out run... and i somehow striped the motor casing where to motor mounts to the chassis (I can't tighten the top screw enough so that it will not slide the pinion sway from the spur gear).

I have a Futaba FP-R112JE 2 Channel receiver and a Futaba FP S14B servo will this mate up with; http://www.rcplanet.com/Novak_Havoc_Sport_Sensored_Brushless_System_w_8_5_p/nvk3038.htm

Or am I looking a replacing all of the electronics? If so does anyone have suggestions on what to get or maybe a package to get? (Package being remote, speed control, servo, receiver and brushless motor).

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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by SteveK »

That will mate up just fine. You will want to go to a faster/stronger servo than the S148 though. Look for one with 60+ oz-in of torque. They aren't that expensive, you can get a good one from Futaba or Hitec for less than $35.

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mrhemi1971
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by mrhemi1971 »

Hitec also makes servos that will work with Futaba recievers, and the prices are decent too. You want to get the fastest steering servo you can afford with decent torque to turn those front meats....
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treehugger
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by treehugger »

nice ford you must have gone easy on it to last in the hands of a 10 year old .
ive been fixing my old box art T body shoe glue and drywall mesh tape i think it has strands of kevlar in it very strong

Paul

thegame310
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by thegame310 »

Great looking RC10T

Sir
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Re: Updated RC10T

Post by Sir »

Bolt wrote:
DHood wrote:I like the old body too. Shoe Goo works great for fixing and reinforcing old and new bodys
I thought about getting some washers and shoe glue to fill the huge holes in the body but then I asked myself if $20 was too much to spend on getting a new body for it.

Although I did have to come up with an interesting fix for relocating the rear body mounts…

Image

Image

I had thoughts cutting and shaving an aluminum sheet or buying a sheet of carbon fiber and cutting it to size and then while I was diging around for some tools my expired gym membership card popped out of a drawer and I thought what the hell it’s the right size and it flexible enough to not bend or break in a roll over. Drilled a few holes and a few screws and nuts later walla! Body is mounted! I plan on sanding it down and painting it black and maybe trimming it down some but hey it’s a quick fix!

What version is yours?....shock towers are carbon ? or just dyed black but fiberglass?

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