From what era is this Reedy/AE stock from?

[DerbyDan]

I got a nice condition JRX2 roller come through from ebay.us (postage & customs was twice what I won the car for ) It was fitted with this Reedy 'ES' stock motor. I've never seen this motor before & wondered what sort of era it comes from - the design on the sticker is rather 80s - early 90s tastic so i'm guessing its from around then? Its in pretty nice condition so would be nice to finish off a suitable vintage build

Thanks in advance for any info

[floodx]

I got one of these too - yours the ball bearing version or bushing? - I think mine is a 20T bushing version. Here is the link to the history of Reedy motors:

http://aedownloads.com/pdf/oldMRmotors.pdf

On the second page the Reedy E-S are listed there was:

E-S Sport 2 - 20T bushing, fixed timing
E-S Sport 4 - 17T bushing, fixed timing
E-S Ultimate 2 - 19T bb, adjustable timing
E-S Ultimate 4 - 15T bb, adjustable timing
E-S Sport 12 - 23T, bushing, fixed timing
E-S Ultimate Oval - 13T bb, adjustable

Absolutely no clue how you tell them apart other than bb vs bushing and actual taking them apart - appears all the same label and no other unique markings.

Says from Reedy catalog 1991 - I was running on a TQ10 so I am guessing it came out about the time the TQ was being sold. Tried to rebuild it but doesn't appear the can comes off on mine or more than likely I don't have the right tool for the job.

My still runs excellent as good as one of those Team Orion 19x2 SV2s.

[DerbyDan]

Wow! thats brilliant info floodx - more than I was expecting lol!

Mine is one of the 'bushed' motors with fixed timing. Its strange that these are not re-buildable (they have the metal tags to hold the end-bell on) as with those winds even the 23turn is going to need fairly regular skimming to maintain its performance. I guess they were used for spec/stock class racing - may even have been a hand-out motor - so one days use & throw it away

[floodx]

Ask me about any other motor and I am clueless - just so happens i have one and reedy had that doc on their site and I like to know what I have.

It is likely that I don't have the right tool - I tried to get those tabs to bend but had no luck - they look thicker than the can tabs i remember on rebuildables.

Glad I could help - rarely I know anything on this forum that I can actually post an answer to.

[jwscab]

you can get them apart, but it's not easy. you need a strong jewelers screwdriver that has a blade as wide as that tab, jam it under, maybe tap with a hammer, and gently bend them back. Once you get them more or less opened, you can push the shaft to help things along. Being a kid with no money, I used to pull them apart, and drill them through somewhere for a 2-56 screw on each side, and make them rebuildable (can't remember if it was 90 degrees from those tabs or near the tabs), then rewind the armatures with pirated magnet wire from other old junk. worked great except when the solder would melt on the low turn winds.

[DerbyDan]

you can get them apart, but it's not easy. you need a strong jewelers screwdriver that has a blade as wide as that tab, jam it under, maybe tap with a hammer, and gently bend them back. Once you get them more or less opened, you can push the shaft to help things along. Being a kid with no money, I used to pull them apart, and drill them through somewhere for a 2-56 screw on each side, and make them rebuildable (can't remember if it was 90 degrees from those tabs or near the tabs), then rewind the armatures with pirated magnet wire from other old junk. worked great except when the solder would melt on the low turn winds.

Ha ha, cool stuff... old skool! - I remember having a go at re-winding armatures (a mate even tried re-comming them too!) I had the same problem with the solder melting - I reckon they use higher temp solder from the factory? Of cause as soon as you'd re-wind the arm - the balance would be off, I tried using my dad's prop balancer (for his R/C planes) but it was a bit in-consistant to say the least.... Ah.. those were the days!

[jwscab]

eh....balancing is a hit or miss. if you hand wind them and place all the windings identical, it's not bad at all.

the factory spot welds the wire to the armature. I didn't have the tools to reweld the thing back together, or I would have been rewinding motors for a side business......

[floodx]

Off topic question - i don't know much on rebuilding these motors and this may be a dumb question - but what are the limitations on just buying new inards (i.e. armature) and slapping it in a can - I know different cans have different # of magnets. But assuming the # of magnets are the same as the one required by the armature...

[DerbyDan]

Off topic question - i don't know much on rebuilding these motors and this may be a dumb question - but what are the limitations on just buying new inards (i.e. armature) and slapping it in a can - I know different cans have different # of magnets. But assuming the # of magnets are the same as the one required by the armature...

All 540-size armatures should fit into our 540-size cans, they all have two magnets (N & S) & three sets of windings (hence three segments on your comm & arm etc) The only thing you'll have to watch is the spacing - you'll have to add different thickness of shims each end of the arm shaft to make sure the brushes run nicely on the comm - also that you have the right amount of end-float.

[AscotConversion]

Says from Reedy catalog 1991 - I was running on a TQ10 so I am guessing it came out about the time the TQ was being sold. Tried to rebuild it but doesn't appear the can comes off on mine or more than likely I don't have the right tool for the job.

The easiest way to get them apart is to slam it shaft side down on cement or other hard surface. This is how we used to get stock motors apart. You can push the tabs back in when you get it back together.

[rc10johnny]

Well The slam method is what we used BITD when the hand out motors went south.