srt to shortcourse questions

[mjremote]

high there my first post and its loaded.

I have 2 srt trucks. one is in good shape and will not be touched. however the second which I got used was not original in some respects and pretty beat up.

after about a 5-6 year gap of playing with my stuff I have decided to get back into racing. going out to the track I see EVERYBODY seems to be running shortcourse stuff. with the slash being the most popular of course. after looking at them my brain started flying.

I decided to build my own lcg chassis out of the second srt. so I took apart it and using chassis plate as a template I have drilled and cut out a close to the correct wheelbase plate. my question is this though. in my digging though all my parts and pieces I found a pair of rear arm that appear about 3/8 or so longer than the originals. however it appears the hingepins are parallel and from looking at the first srt the rear toe in built into the arm and not at the rear block? not I have a couple extra pairs of rear blocks the are marked +1 this refers to the rear toe correct? also I would have like to use the longer arm in the rear and get the pro-trak front arms and have a poor mans pro line kit. however if I cant get the proper rear toe in I doubt the handling would be where I want it as the track I will run and is kinda loose. btw this will a pure racer no bashing. also I would like to do that to run the zero offset rims and still keep the wheels under the body plus too have compatibility with the assc 4x4 I plan on getting in the future

so I guess part of the questions are what are the parts that will crossover? also I got too looking at the nirto rustler and it appears the that there again the suspension is practically identical except that the rear bulkhead if flipped for the nitro engine?

also where did the longer rear arms come from?? the electric rustler I think I remember that the wheels for that were very deep set at one point but then where did the rear toe come in?

so I would really like to get in touch with someone that remembers what all the parts were like and what changes may have been made where? I would like to maintain as much parts compatibility as is reasonable and still not compromise performance as I plan on dominating with this thing

I have also thought about getting a slash 4x4 and I hear the arms are the same front and rear and compatible with the slash rear?

also this car will be a test bed for a couple other ideas. I will be posting pictures as the build continues but as of right now its pretty much just a piles of pieces sitting on the workbench.

THANK YOU for any help anybody wishes to forward

[SRTracer121]

rustler had 0° toe in, good ole traxxas

the stock arms for the srt are the same length as the slash so they will work with stock offset rims

the slash 4x4 arms are the rear for the rusty & pede (those long trx arms you mentioned) the nitro rusty is infact the same as the srt... except nitro... and with a flipped bulk and tranny... and a rx box hanging off the end... but ya know, details right?

im all over the place atm but ill get back to you with more thorough answers, i planned on doing the same thing with my srt since it had been shelved for a few months and i wanted to run it in our clubs sc-turned-latemodel class.

[mjremote]

ok good info to know

but that brings up a couple other questions I have seen a few aftermarket cvd kits marketed as compatible with both the 2w and 2w slash? if the rear arms are in fact different lengths they would have to make it up where the inner hinge pin is mounted. so is this what they did or am I missing something there?

also looking at the spare truck the two front arms are different one was longer than the other and the longer one uses the smaller hinge pins ala srt. I guess the guy I got it from had broke an arm and got the wrong one. I did not notice till I was taking everything apart to cleanup and work on this project. so i need to get a new pair of front arms hence also part of my thinking to the pro trak stuff and zero offset rims

part of my thinking was to use the longer arms with the zero offset rims for the assc 4x4 as I am hoping to get that at some point this summer (perhaps) so that I did not have to carry as many different wheels and tire around with me and they are easier to keep track of.

also I was thinking the longer arms may give a slight performance bump.

actually doing the chassis was quite easy as I used the original as a template and since the rear suspension mounts are the same width as the rear bulkhead I just line those as I was drilling to get a little over an inch stretch and while that may not totally to scale or correct its gonna be close enough for for right now I think. the top plate and sides I left lined up with the front and I will probably span the rear with a piece of fiber to a piece of angle aluminum hooked to the rear bulkhead ( it might not have the side stiffness I want but I have not made it quite that far yet)also cutting fiberglass was pretty easy as well since my mom has a diamond band saw that is wicked cool (she uses it for stained glass and jewelry. I will probably re do it over the winter for next season.

anyway looking forward to getting info and bouncing ideas of and glad to hear that at least one other person has been still running this pretty awesome truck!!

[harry697]

Interested in seeing some pics of your build! I was actually thinking about doing the same kind of build, but just haven't had the time to get started. As far as I can tell, it should be a very easy and straight-forward project. Hardest part will probably be deciding on what area of the chassis to lengthen (which isn't really much of a decision if using stock SRT parts).

As far as the arms, I think SRT racer pretty much nailed it. The electric Rustler arms are a little longer but have no toe built in. The front one that you mentioned having a smaller hinge pin hole is from an old XL-1 model IIRC. That was back when they decided to use 5x8 bearings in the front and rear hubs.

[SRTracer121]

im going to take a stab at ID'ing those arms as HPI nitro rush" arms, its an old trick some guys did to get that extra width before people started just using the rear arms up front (didnt help that nitro rush parts became impossible to find)

[mjremote]

actually I took a road trip today and went to a mom and pop type hobby shop and got some parts. turns out that what I thought was the longer arm is actually the correct one and the oddball arm was to short. it was not by much but enough that I noticed it. I think I will go with the stock components for right now as I would have to order what I want and dont want to wait another week to get too putting this thing together and I have enough on hand except for wheels and tires to make a go of it. I can use 2.2 tire for test runs anyway I have a few of those. right now all I have is the bottom plate drilled and cut out still need to countersink it. will do that in the morning and start assembly. I will be taking pics and hopefully getting them posted.

people were mounting rear arms in the front?? I really dont remember that. boy could you imagine original ruslter arms all the way around it would been WAY wider than it was long!

a couple of questions on the tranny. with the delrin and aluminum ider with the traxxas ball diff handle a 8.5 brushless and a decent lipo?? thats what I have to run with at the moment. I know back in the day I was running a 11 turn mod it it and had no real troubles but I am adding a little bit of weight and bolting on more power so was just wondering if I should go with the steel gears to start??


THANKS

[SRTracer121]

yup and now people mount jato arms too

bashers are funny

i tried the wide arm thing on my pede, for all the trouble of making it work it was just easier to learn how to set the car up with the stock arms.

also didnt know there were such thing as mom and pop shops anymore, who'da thunk it?

[markt311]

Those different front arms you have with the larger hinge pin holes are probably nitro rustler arms. I know there's a difference in slash/rustler and nitro rustler front arms. The nitro rusltler one uses bearings in the wheel, like the srt and the other has a live axle and 12mm hex like a slash.



it's been a long time since I had to remember any of my traxxas history

BTW your tramsmission should hold up fine, once it wears out you can just a slash idler gear and topshaft in it. Diff gears are still easy to find.

[SRTracer121]

no, front arms are the same between them your thinking of the rears, the camber blocks and spindles are different (floating axle verses bearing in wheel) but the front end is basically the same between the srt, pede, rusty, bandit, slash [2wd], nitro rusty, nitro pede. with exception to the knucles and blocks they all share the same bulkhead, arms, pin diameter , same bumper, etc.

where they differ: the shock tower is different for the srt but it retains the same geometry in the plastic versions, then you also have the grey vs black bulkhead, the fiberglass tiebar (there are 2-3 versions made from different materials and the first gen pede/rusty/bandit lacked one from the factory) the hinge pins only differ in that you have a set that used e-clips, a coarse thread philips head, and a coarse thread 2.5mm hex head the later 2 had tapered tips and were hardened, unlike the e-clip ones which bend if you look at them wrong. shock mounting changed from the srt to the others as the srt still used the older design with a separate shock bushing that was carried originally from the trx10 (which they included as loose parts with the r/p/b up until i think the blue xl5 cars)

[markt311]

slash/rustler/pede
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_926/products_id/17544/n/Traxxas-Front-Suspension-Arms

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_926/products_id/115087/n/RPM-Front-A-Arms-Black-Rustler-Stampede-Slash-2


nitro rustler/stampede
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_661/products_id/14852/n/Traxxas-Front-Suspension-Arms-2

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1466_661/products_id/47818/n/RPM-Front-A-Arms-Black-Nitro-RustlerStampedeSport-2

2 different parts, even in the RPM version

[SRTracer121]

sob your absolutely right. and they are longer

'lectric:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJK51&P=7

3 1/4"

nitro:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=+&FVSEARCH=2531X&search=Go

3"

you learn something new every day

[mjremote]

well a couple of the ideas I wanted to are not working out quite the way I wanted. still going through with the project but I am certain there will be more incarnations of this vehicle come next winter.

kinda bummed too because I had to pull a few parts of my good srt to make this work. the other one was too far gone in a couple areas. still working on it and making progress and taking pictures now so things are moving along just not a pace I would like

[crusaderlyf]

hello just a few questions about the traxxas srt, this studium is competitive truck? which year that has been made? 1995? I have collected a nib srt but was stock another place.the box marked competitive and proline xtr included, white fiber glass chassis & upper deck

[mjremote]

yes this one of the last if not the very last traxxas vehicle that was a pure race truck. I am not sure of my timeline but i believe it was introduces in 95 and was discontinued in 97. I may be of a year one or another but the is the approximate timeframe. It did include pro-line tires in the box. It was and still is quite competitive with the current generations trucks. Mine before T took it apart for my project was setup quite nicely and could hang with ANY truck out there. traxxas did have a line of option parts for it that was mostly to replace the white fiberglass with carbon fiber pieces and some tranny parts. Many of the parts are still compatible with currently produced traxxas vehicles. The suspension is a direct replacement for the nitro ruslter with the rear bulkhead simply flipped to the rear of the chassis. the front is identical. the transmission internals are still compatible with the slash, rustler line of vehicles with the exception that the materials that make up the gears have changed to handle the power of brushless. of course yours has a ball diff and they have sinced switched to a gear diff(a step backwards for performance but better for maintenance) the ball diff is even still available but without the delrin gear I doubt it would handle much more than 17.5 brushless. dont know that for a fact but it is a good guess I believe.

[harry697]

the ball diff is even still available but without the delrin gear I doubt it would handle much more than 17.5 brushless. dont know that for a fact but it is a good guess I believe.

I put a full racing season on a stock ball diff with the Traxxas VXL system without any issues. Lots of diff maintenance, but never had to replace the gear itself.