Parts list so far
ebay T2 pan, noseplate and shock tower
GT rear arm mounts
Traxxas bandit rear arms
Custom works rear hubs
B4.1 axles, bearing spacer, dogbones
Sc10 gear diff trans
B4 1.18 blue shocks
RPM Traxxas bandit front arms
B4 caster blocks
1.02 blue shocks
B4 wheels front and rear
Hand made front and rear bukheads
Losi XX turnbuckles
On to the pics
The joys of ebay
The only pic was straight down from the top. Didnt notice the notch untill after I bid on it. It came with a noseplate with a stripped out hole, a broken off ball stud in the rear bulkhead and a usable rear tower. Good thing it was only $11 with shipping. I still have no idea what they were doing. Wasnt originally planning on cutting the sides down but it looks like I dont have much choice. 
I went with the SC10 trans just to see how the gear diff was. I have heard of a lot of people that like how it works and if I dont like it I can always change it out for a ball diff. The transmission went on pretty easy. Open the square in the pan up a bit and slot out the two rear holes and its in.
The bandit arms are just a little narrower at the inner mount than the RC10 arms. I forgot to measure but I think it was only about 1/8 inch difference. Nothing a scroll saw and a sander cant fix. I really dont understand why traxxas uses all metric screws and bearings but the hinge pins are all 1/8 inch. Thats fine with me. Less parts to modify that way. They do however have toe in built in to the arms. A couple of options are 0 degree inner mounts, not easy to find, or simply run 1.5 or 3 degree hubs with them switched side to side. I figured it would just be easier to spread the arm mounts before I drilled the front holes to take some toe in out. I might make some inner mounts later and just run the stock frame holes and a 0 mount. thats something for later though.
Couple shots of the rear to show off the traxxas arms and the custom works hubs(thanks scr8p). The b4 bones fit perfectly and the T2 tower actually fits really well. The shock spacing is just right and I dont have to make a rear shock tower. They are discontinued but they are on ebay alot. I did recess the outer bearing in the hub another .025 so that the bearing spacer worked. I could have used shims on the inside but I needed to narrow the back up just a bit.
The rear bulkhead had to be full custom in order to support the transmission and give me some usable rear link positions as well as mount the shock tower. The T2 bulkhead gave me no camber change at all and wasnt going to work for me.
The lighting in my garage sucks so these didnt show up very well. They started as two blocks of delrin and after a few hours I had a bulkhead and link mount. The two are only 7 grams more than the t2 bulkhead so I can live with that. I will get some better pictures for all of you.
Right where it needs to be.
I didnt luck out as well in the front.
With the old style caster blocks it came out 10 mm too wide. If I go with the b4 caster blocks it will be wider yet. I didnt really feel like spending $20 on another pair of arms so a new front bulkhead is in the works. I need to get it mocked up with the b4 caster blocks to see how much I need to narrow it up. For right now heres how it sits.
They use 1/8 hinge pins and fit the stock 10T bulkhead perfectly. Too bad they are just a bit long.
I think I have a buggy nose plate found that I can trim down and then I will tear into the front end. Back half is actually done as far as fab work with the exception of a spacer for the wing mounts. Compared to my short course build this one is going real fast.
Nick
) posted recently that ever since the "old is new" formula - dynotech arms and such, there hadn't been as much experimentation going on. Refreshing to see something NEW that isn't "Old is New" 
