new 10gt

[68sportcoup]

so while im trying to revive my old trucks this pops up on ebay localy
so i just had to have.
i allways wanted one but i also said i would stay electric but ill have to try it out it was pretty cheap.
here it is.





looks like its missing a fuel line it has one short one

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Looks pretty clean. I believe it is the RTR version. That engine is fast as hell when it's running right. Nice score.

[68sportcoup]

so i sloshed some new fuel around in the tank to clean it out.
and got some new fuel lines but im confused the fuel line that is there goes right in the tabk to the bottom do i just pull this out im worried i wont be able to just push a new one in there.
ive taken the tank out does the tank seperate the top and bottom.
i just dont want to brake anything.
thanks mike

[klavy69]

Mike,
pull the fuel line off the fuel fill cap and run that end to the carb. Run a new line from the fuel filler cap to the pipe.

You should be able to push on a new line on the bottom but sometimes you'll need to take the tank off to do it. Also depending on which hose you use they will sometimes swell a little bit making it easy to slip off. A small ziptie around it on the bottom will keep it on though.

the tank will not separate top from bottom.

Todd

[68sportcoup]

heres the tank.



i wouldnt want to pull that line off and not be able to get a new one back on.



i wasnt sure if that was a filter inside the tank and if so how would you change it

[romulus22]

Different than the older GT's but that line will just pull off and a new one will slide right on. If it flows freely no need to change unless you find a tear.

[68sportcoup]

Thanks I just leave it and see if it works

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

If this is your first nitro experience, then do your homework and be patient. Nitro is a Bitch Goddess: It gives with one hand and takes with the other.

There is great info on the net about tuning nitro engines. Do yourself a favor and read it. I know from experience. When I got my first GT I was ready to hang it up before I ever got it started. After reading up and gathering at least some understanding it was a lot of fun though. Plus, there is nothing better than the sound of a finely tuned engine and the smell of burning nitro. I swore it off forever, but with Spring approaching I can kinda hear the clitter-clatter of a finely tuned engine and tuned pipe in my ear.

[68sportcoup]

put the tank back in gave it a couple pulls fuel not going up the line .
took the line off the carb pulled one cycle fuel comes up.
i would have to think the carb is gummed up.
so then i tried a drop of fuel down the carb pull starter doesnt catch every time looks like i need to get a new one way bearing.
or is there an easier way to start it i was thinking i could make some type of rubber wheel in my cordless drill on the flywheel from underneeth or just get the one way bearing.
and i think i need to take the carb off to clean it should i just take the motor off the car to do this.
any good articles om the motor cleaning.
and what is this i read about sealing the motor.
how is this done and is it that hard.
Thanks again Mike

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Gimme a minute to do some research. Kid's in bed and the ol' lady is out on call so I got time.

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Nitro fuel itself is a good cleaner for the engine and carb, and yes I would clean the whole operation before getting started. It will let you know the composition of the engine and make sure you're starting with a clean slate. Be sure to note the setting of the piston as it will have different ports on each side. You need to make sure you get them right when you put it back or the exhaust will not work properly. I know from experience.

Also make sure that the fuel lines are all in the right spots. Check an on line manual for that. It's easy to get them backwards.

Next you want to make sure all the seals are tight. You should feel a good amount of pressure when you give that rope a pull. Not to mention since you bought it used I would start with a fresh glo plug and ring. A good glo starter with meter is handy because it tells you if the plug is bad. A bad plug and all the tuning in the world will do no good.

As for the one way bearing, cleaning it with alcohol or acetone will remove any oil and prove whether or not it's bad or just oily. Be careful when you take it off though. If it unspools you can forget it.

However, if it is shaped like a regular hexagonal nut (and I believe it is). You can use a rig like the one below. You'll just need the right size socket and an adapter. A drill with high RPM is needed to get things fired up. A cheap slow drill will not do it. You may have to run it a bit lean to get it to fire at first so be sure to richen it back up before going full throttle down the road. Otherwise you'll throw a rod. Ask me how I know... And by research I meant find this tiny pic in my giant photobucket.

[klavy69]

thumber pretty much summed it up. Only problem with his starting 'tool' is that you still need an operational one way bearing for it to work . I used a hand held bumpstarter. New at the LHS they ran around $75 set up. You can pick up new ones for around $20 off ebay though and have accumulated several myself over the years buying up other peoples headaches .

Todd

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

thumber pretty much summed it up. Only problem with his starting 'tool' is that you still need an operational one way bearing for it to work

I believe the one way bearing is housed inside the nut within the pull-start housing(unless that's just the O.S. version). I may be wrong(and I usually am ). If it doesn't have that nut then Todd's solution is absolutely right. (and it usually is... stupid know-it-all with all his right answers)

[klavy69]

you might be right on it but when you asked about hex size and saying you needed a correct size socket I figured they were like the flex extensions that came out after the HG yank eliminators. Those used the original one way bearing out of the pull starter and came with a hex socket like a 1:1 car spark plug socket. Never seen one up close since I had a yank eliminator and then went directly to the bump starter when I started accumulating others that I couldn't use the yank eliminator on. I can't get my eyes to focus on the picture right now...

especially after having to squint to read my description .

Either way I hope it works out cuz I'm pry wrong and that know-it-all thumber is pry right

Todd

P.S.By the way you are correct thumber the one way bearing is housed inside the pullstart housing like you said but to use the tool you have pictured it still has to not slip...so to make a short answer long and a derailer thread like we usually do I went that way

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

you might be right

I guess we won't know until he pulls down 'er skirt and shows us the goodies...
I'm going to bed.