RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

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Dave145
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RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

Ok so here's what I'm looking for. I'm in need of some support for the front nose plate of the car. I had the original body brace tubes on the car, but due to a little mishap with a cement parking block, they broke and the car looked like a potato chip. So after taking it to the local machine shop and getting it pressed and flattened and having to 1/16" plates welded to the car, the car still had minimal support against roll ups. So then I added twin vertical support beams lengthwise in the car to form somewhat of a channel down the center of the pan. This works great for the middle (and possibly the rear) of the car, but what can I do for the front nose plate? I'm tired of bending it and breaking truckloads of nose brace tubes during front end collisions. So what can I add to the front to make it sturdier?

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by scr8p »

stop running into stuff. problem solved. :wink: :mrgreen:

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Dave145
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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

I'll attribute the running into stuff to the fact that I don't have any capacitors on my motor. Ive been told that's why my car keeps losing control so often. A lack of steeing and brakes on pavement also helps and to that problem though. :D

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by THUNDERSTRIKE1 »

A big ass piece of foam then bounces off obsticles lmao.DON

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Dave145
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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

Kind of like a touring car bumper on a buggy? I might try that sometime.

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Harrylarry »

If your breaking nose tubes a bumper won't help. Gear it down a bit and you will gain more control. Sometimes going slower is actually faster. Can we see some pics of mr potato chip.

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

I tried gearing down to my lowest ratio of 17:81 put it didn't do too much for impacts. I'm currently running a ratio of 25:87 for drag runs/burn outs down my street. Ran great until the steering glitched and sent the car into the shoulder of the road. But yeah the last time I broke a nose brace tube was in a full on front end collision with none other than a steel fence poll at 40 mph. The car looked like a pringle and the right front nose brace tube was absolutely shattered.

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Harrylarry »

Had one once that had a broken antenna wire would work fine and then act all screwy. Possibly need some new electronics.

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Jascot »

Dave145 wrote:Ran great until the steering glitched and sent the car into the shoulder of the road.
Instead of asking how you can strengthen your car sufficiently to survive these collisions, maybe the thing you should be investigating is how to stop these glitches that keep causing you to hit things the car isn't designed to survive? I fought with steering glitches like you describe for a long time until I finally gave in and replaced my 25 year old radio/receiver which probably has a break somewhere in the antenna lead with a new Flysky radio/receiver. No more glitching anymore. Otherwise, you mention earlier not having any caps on your motor. Caps are cheap and fairly easy to add. You'll break a lot less if you don't hit obstacles in the first place.


Jeff
1986(ish) Edinger RC10 -- Hobbywing 13T Motor -- Hobbywing 35A ESC -- Flysky Radio

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by steelhead »

Jascot wrote:
Dave145 wrote:Ran great until the steering glitched and sent the car into the shoulder of the road.
Instead of asking how you can strengthen your car sufficiently to survive these collisions, maybe the thing you should be investigating is how to stop these glitches that keep causing you to hit things the car isn't designed to survive? I fought with steering glitches like you describe for a long time until I finally gave in and replaced my 25 year old radio/receiver which probably has a break somewhere in the antenna lead with a new Flysky radio/receiver. No more glitching anymore. Otherwise, you mention earlier not having any caps on your motor. Caps are cheap and fairly easy to add. You'll break a lot less if you don't hit obstacles in the first place.


Jeff
I agree, running your car like this can be dangerous if it's glitching like you say. Not only are you destroying your equipment but you could hurt someone.

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Dave145
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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

Ok I just got back from a run with a traxxas 2.4 ghz radio and a titan 12t motor and the car still glitches once It's out about 20 feet.

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by RC104ever »

You need a better radio and receiver. Try the Fly Sky setup, cheap anemone has never glitched, even better than my Spektrum setup
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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Lonestar »

Dave145 wrote:Ok I just got back from a run with a traxxas 2.4 ghz radio and a titan 12t motor and the car still glitches once It's out about 20 feet.
if new radio and mill and still glitching, you need to try a different speedo and then a different steering servo. If it still glitches, ditch RC and start bowling or ball dancing...

Paul
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Dave145
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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by Dave145 »

I do like bowling.... Anyway i do have a newer hitec servo up front right now, but i did fond something interesting. When i gear down the motor to a 17:87 ratio, the glitching stops. However when I gear it up to 25:87 it glitches again. Ii confirmed this with two different radios, and two different motors (with and without capacitors) I figure that its the heat build up from the bigger pinion and the 100+ degree parking lot and temperature outside recently. I also had glitching issues with my stock Sc18, but none with my stock Losi Micro T. Any ideas? I tried all these on the same day for the record. :D

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Re: RC10 Gold Pan Chassis mod suggestions?

Post by JK Racing »

sounds like the BEC system on the speedo is weak. as you pull more amps (geared up higher) the speedo cant supply enough juice to the radio...

try adding an external battery pack to power just the radio, when you do this remove the red wire from you speedo to the receiver...dont need to burn that up testing.
--Joey --
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JKRacingRC.com

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