Vintage racing
Vintage racing
I was just wondering what impact the re re will have on the local rc racing circuit?
Honestly I'm hoping some people get the bug again and race a re re or dig out their old RC10, put some of the new aftermarket parts on it, and hit the track in a vintage class!! I'd be happy to see a few gold pans show up even if they were put in with the modern cars.
Honestly I'm hoping some people get the bug again and race a re re or dig out their old RC10, put some of the new aftermarket parts on it, and hit the track in a vintage class!! I'd be happy to see a few gold pans show up even if they were put in with the modern cars.
Re: Vintage racing
If there is not a second run I would say there will be minimal impact on the vintage racing scene...vsefiream wrote:I was just wondering what impact the re re will have on the local rc racing circuit?
Honestly I'm hoping some people get the bug again and race a re re or dig out their old RC10, put some of the new aftermarket parts on it, and hit the track in a vintage class!! I'd be happy to see a few gold pans show up even if they were put in with the modern cars.
That is the kit itself...the influx of parts to get more cars running would probably have a bigger impact.
-Joe
Re: Vintage racing
I know at my track, Joey and I are the only ones who bought cars and while we both plan to run ours, they will get thrown in with the regular buggy class. Mine is pretty stock, so I don't expect it to do great, but it will still be fun to run it.
RC10 Short Arm | Novak Tempest ESC | Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T | Savox 1258 | Stealth Trans w/ Exotek Slipper Eliminator (geared 24/81)
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
- JK Racing
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Re: Vintage racing
There are 3 others at our track that have RC10s as well (vintage, not "classic" kits). One I know races his, another I am trying to get him to come out, but he only races about twice a year...the third, I am working on him 
If we get all 5 of us at the track at once, I am sure they will give us a vintage buggy class.
Ryan, you can make it competitive with modern cars, just get the right wheels/tires on there. You will be surprised.

If we get all 5 of us at the track at once, I am sure they will give us a vintage buggy class.
Ryan, you can make it competitive with modern cars, just get the right wheels/tires on there. You will be surprised.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
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Re: Vintage racing
A few of us that have known each other and raced together back when these cars were new the first time got together at the beginning of this year and discussed a Vintage RC racing class. We all wanted to go earlier than the RC10 but decided the cars were worth too much money and were hard to find all of the parts to build.
I decided to go with RC10s as I had recently found cars in good condition for $25-$100 while hunting for other stuff. A set of initial rules was drafted based on 1-1 racing car classes for a Spec Early RC10 class circa 1984-85. This is still in the works while everyone gathers up cars to do this as most of us are involved in 1-1 motorsports.
At this time it is planned to be invitational only. While doing the research we found tires were going to be an issue and we were going to have to run the swamp buggy 2.2’s to be able to get tires. Cars were mocked up.. Photos were shared with vintage period correct bodies and while this was going to be hard to swallow this is what we were going to have to do. NOW that this car is out and we have TIRES and PARTS its an easy no brainer to be able to run these classes of cars we have drawn up.
We went as far as building our own track so that we wouldn’t have to run on the rock hard local speedway that they sweep with all of the 90 and 190 degree corners. There is No Flow man and it’s a good thing they don’t build women like this.
I have 2 ReRes on the bench along with 4 original vintage cars.
All of the bulkheads on the Vintage cars have been replaced with new units to run Lipo packs and not butcher up survivors. All the spindles have also been purchased new (steering blocks) due to the stress these parts receive.
Right now we are leaning towards Brushed motors heavily as that was vintage power. While I would love to get a truckload of Checkpoint gold motors for an “Open” class we will have to pick out a Spec motor.
So this was our plan and it nicely lined up with Associateds plans.
I decided to go with RC10s as I had recently found cars in good condition for $25-$100 while hunting for other stuff. A set of initial rules was drafted based on 1-1 racing car classes for a Spec Early RC10 class circa 1984-85. This is still in the works while everyone gathers up cars to do this as most of us are involved in 1-1 motorsports.
At this time it is planned to be invitational only. While doing the research we found tires were going to be an issue and we were going to have to run the swamp buggy 2.2’s to be able to get tires. Cars were mocked up.. Photos were shared with vintage period correct bodies and while this was going to be hard to swallow this is what we were going to have to do. NOW that this car is out and we have TIRES and PARTS its an easy no brainer to be able to run these classes of cars we have drawn up.
We went as far as building our own track so that we wouldn’t have to run on the rock hard local speedway that they sweep with all of the 90 and 190 degree corners. There is No Flow man and it’s a good thing they don’t build women like this.
I have 2 ReRes on the bench along with 4 original vintage cars.
All of the bulkheads on the Vintage cars have been replaced with new units to run Lipo packs and not butcher up survivors. All the spindles have also been purchased new (steering blocks) due to the stress these parts receive.
Right now we are leaning towards Brushed motors heavily as that was vintage power. While I would love to get a truckload of Checkpoint gold motors for an “Open” class we will have to pick out a Spec motor.
So this was our plan and it nicely lined up with Associateds plans.
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Re: Vintage racing
Spec motor... I am not a racer due to lack of tracks in my area, but how about the reedy radon 17 turn? 
Chris

Chris
Losi - Jrx2, Pro, Jr2, Pro SE, JrxT, JrT, LXT, NXT, XXKE, XXTG+
Mini - T, LST, LST2, Crawler
Micro - Trekker, SCT, T
Crawlers - Trx4 Defender, Bootleg Bruiser Shelf Queen
-Bashers under contruction- Jrx2
Mini - T, LST, LST2, Crawler
Micro - Trekker, SCT, T
Crawlers - Trx4 Defender, Bootleg Bruiser Shelf Queen
-Bashers under contruction- Jrx2
Re: Vintage racing
Why bother with the new bulkheads if you are going with vintage electronics? Or are you going to go brushed motors with LiPo batteries? In that case you might as well just got mild brushless just for the maintenance aspect.TheSpeedway wrote:
I have 2 ReRes on the bench along with 4 original vintage cars.
All of the bulkheads on the Vintage cars have been replaced with new units to run Lipo packs and not butcher up survivors. All the spindles have also been purchased new (steering blocks) due to the stress these parts receive.
Right now we are leaning towards Brushed motors heavily as that was vintage power. While I would love to get a truckload of Checkpoint gold motors for an “Open” class we will have to pick out a Spec motor.
So this was our plan and it nicely lined up with Associateds plans.
-Joe
Re: Vintage racing
$80 will get you a Hobbywing EZRun 35a esc and 13T motor. $100 will get you a Speedpassion ESC/17.5 combo. $120 will get you the Novak ESC/17.5 combo.
$50 will get you a used Novak ESC and a Reedy Radon 17T motor.
$50 will get you a used Novak ESC and a Reedy Radon 17T motor.
RC10 Short Arm | Novak Tempest ESC | Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T | Savox 1258 | Stealth Trans w/ Exotek Slipper Eliminator (geared 24/81)
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
RC10B3 | HW Just Stock Club Spec | Reedy 13.5 | Savox 1258
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Re: Vintage racing
Hi Joe, The bulkheads have nothing to do with the electronics you run. We will most likely run something modern for an ESC but without a bunch of adjustments. I don't need to program it like a Motec with the laptop. The floor is absent in the new unit so that it will fit a LiPo Battery. No sense hacking the vintage units as they should go to someone restoring a shelfer. As far as running a Brushed motor with a Lipo - Its just a battery but one that has a helluvalotlonger charge than the 7 cell packs we ran. Mains were 4 minutes and we barely got that with an open motor'd car. You didn't take a test lap back then or you might not finish. Thank you for the tip on low maintenance. Im good with brush swapping and more however and these motors are cheap today. Back in the day that Checkpoint gold I ran cost me $75. It was only that expensive as there was a cap on the motor prices at $75. We thought it was cheap as you could spend a couple hundred on a slot car motor back then. I didn't make much over minimum wage so it was still pricey for me.joeman37 wrote:Why bother with the new bulkheads if you are going with vintage electronics? Or are you going to go brushed motors with LiPo batteries? In that case you might as well just got mild brushless just for the maintenance aspect.TheSpeedway wrote:
I have 2 ReRes on the bench along with 4 original vintage cars.
All of the bulkheads on the Vintage cars have been replaced with new units to run Lipo packs and not butcher up survivors. All the spindles have also been purchased new (steering blocks) due to the stress these parts receive.
Right now we are leaning towards Brushed motors heavily as that was vintage power. While I would love to get a truckload of Checkpoint gold motors for an “Open” class we will have to pick out a Spec motor.
So this was our plan and it nicely lined up with Associateds plans.
-Joe
Mark
Re: Vintage racing
OK When you mentioned running brushed motors I assumed you were going vintage on all the electronics, including batteries. What you are saying makes sense. I remember how expensive things were when I got into the hobby about 1990 and the price and performance these days is crazy compared to that. Either way I think you will end up having a lot of fun. No one up by me seems to have any interest in running or racing vintage stuff so I am kind of on my own. We don't even have a real buggy class any more, everything is SC trucks, they run one mod buggy class and it is basically free for all, 4wd, 2wd, it doesn't matter because they get about 3 cars and they run with the 3 stadium trucks that show up. It is a lot different from what I remember from back in the early 90's...TheSpeedway wrote:
Hi Joe, The bulkheads have nothing to do with the electronics you run. We will most likely run something modern for an ESC but without a bunch of adjustments. I don't need to program it like a Motec with the laptop. The floor is absent in the new unit so that it will fit a LiPo Battery. No sense hacking the vintage units as they should go to someone restoring a shelfer. As far as running a Brushed motor with a Lipo - Its just a battery but one that has a helluvalotlonger charge than the 7 cell packs we ran. Mains were 4 minutes and we barely got that with an open motor'd car. You didn't take a test lap back then or you might not finish. Thank you for the tip on low maintenance. Im good with brush swapping and more however and these motors are cheap today. Back in the day that Checkpoint gold I ran cost me $75. It was only that expensive as there was a cap on the motor prices at $75. We thought it was cheap as you could spend a couple hundred on a slot car motor back then. I didn't make much over minimum wage so it was still pricey for me.
Mark
-Joe
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