My RC10 Graphite runner
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My RC10 Graphite runner
Lately I've been driving Niki-built NIX10M and like it a lot. Now as they are closing the indoor tracks for summer I need another car for outdoor tracks. So I finally begun working on my summer car to be, which is RC10 Graphite team car. The car was quite rough and missing a lot of parts, so restoring it was not an option. I'd like to build it to look somewhat like Masami 1989 prototype, like this. Not exact copy of course but more modern runner for turf and clay.
This is the starting point: If possible I will steal some ideas from 10M like battery tray from 44.2 and steering servo position(Masami's prototype has it the same way if I'm right). I'm not sure which shocks to use as original team car ones are missing. I like the look of golden shocks like the prototype car has and I already have a set of CE golden shocks. But if I decide to use big bores, are there anything golden bb's available that fits?
What is the reason for flipped rear bulkhead in the original prototype? Is it worth doing?
This is the NIX car:
This is the starting point: If possible I will steal some ideas from 10M like battery tray from 44.2 and steering servo position(Masami's prototype has it the same way if I'm right). I'm not sure which shocks to use as original team car ones are missing. I like the look of golden shocks like the prototype car has and I already have a set of CE golden shocks. But if I decide to use big bores, are there anything golden bb's available that fits?
What is the reason for flipped rear bulkhead in the original prototype? Is it worth doing?
This is the NIX car:
- Lonestar
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
cool project- Nix10M looks good btw, makes me want to build mine
Gold BB's, nothing that I know of. You might have to start looking into no-name cheap asian options on eBay, but performance might not be up to expectations. Otherwise, have a set of modern BB, deano them and have them reano'ed... but that's become costly.
Will follow with interest
Paul
Gold BB's, nothing that I know of. You might have to start looking into no-name cheap asian options on eBay, but performance might not be up to expectations. Otherwise, have a set of modern BB, deano them and have them reano'ed... but that's become costly.
Will follow with interest
Paul
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
OK, thanks! Kashima looks to be close enough but very pricey. I would have to get a full set of bb shocks + the kashima bodies. Kyosho has something called velvet coating and that's also close. Both are darker than AE gold but I bet without reanodizing nothing will be the same colour. I have to look closer into Kyosho ones as they also have golden alu cap and not plastic.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
Actually, me thinks kashima bodies are more on the dark champagne side I'd say (hence why I didn't mention them!). But they are the closest thing to gold ano available as-is now, I guess
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
I found Exotek golden caps for Team Durango bb’s but I have no idea if they have the same thread pitch or even size than AE or Kyosho.
These
I think they would look good on both AE or Kyosho. Anyone know’s if they fit?
These
I think they would look good on both AE or Kyosho. Anyone know’s if they fit?
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
This is where I'm at now and run out of parts. I'm using Nix steering as I like how it performs on my mid motor car. I will change all the ball cups to white shock rod ends and see how they work. Rear shock tower will change as well to be more like the prototype car's tower. I like to look of the golden shocks and will use those with bb springs(and golden caps and white parts at front as well). They are the top loading ones so hopefully will not leak like old style shocks. If I manage to find golden bb shocks I will have to reconsider.
I did cut the chassis nose a bit but not as much as Masami's car. I have to find or make a front bumper and drill the chassis for servo mounts and B44.2 battery trays.
I still don't know the idea of flipped rear bulkhead but it seems to work just fine as soon as I get the support done.
I did cut the chassis nose a bit but not as much as Masami's car. I have to find or make a front bumper and drill the chassis for servo mounts and B44.2 battery trays.
I still don't know the idea of flipped rear bulkhead but it seems to work just fine as soon as I get the support done.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
Hi Tomi
I think the idea of flipped bulkhead is to align shocks better with rear arms. Especially you have LWB-setup.
I think the idea of flipped bulkhead is to align shocks better with rear arms. Especially you have LWB-setup.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
Hi Tomi
Nice build so far
Why did you flip the rear bulkhead? You are not going to use a transmission brace then or are you going to trim the rear tower to fit the brace?
Cheers,
Daniel
Nice build so far
Why did you flip the rear bulkhead? You are not going to use a transmission brace then or are you going to trim the rear tower to fit the brace?
Cheers,
Daniel
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
Yes, I will have to make different shock tower and transmission brace. The reason, like Joksa said, is to get the shocks better aligned. I'm not sure if it really makes a difference or not but as it was done on the RC10GX prototype car I decided to copy it to this car. I did a little testing with the rear arm mounts on LWB setting and shock is at better angle when the tower is a little farther back.
And I'm quite sure I will have to use rere worlds arms at the front also as I'm running out of wide white arms. I don't want to break the last sets I have.
And I'm quite sure I will have to use rere worlds arms at the front also as I'm running out of wide white arms. I don't want to break the last sets I have.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
I got some parts in the mail, stole some from NIX10M and got the car on wheels. I like the look even if I'm still missing a lot of parts. I just wish those battery cups came in white.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
Looks really good Tomi. Have you considered reversing the ballstud in the servo saver so that the link becomes perpendicular to the bellcrank?
Doug
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
I didn't even notice the servo link agle before. I tried to reverse the ballstud with the servo saver and with hard arm but it didn't work. I then tried different servo and now it's at better angle. I also got more room for esc.
I had the saver on the servo because I kept on breaking steering parts at indoor tracks. I hope outdoor tracks are more forgiving and won't be needing it.
I had the saver on the servo because I kept on breaking steering parts at indoor tracks. I hope outdoor tracks are more forgiving and won't be needing it.
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Re: My RC10 Graphite runner
OK, I got a little confused here while testing front end geometry. My golden shocks are bottoming out way before they should.
They are 0.89 or at least they are the same length as B4 v2 front shocks, which definitely are 0.89. Where are they from? I thought they were 0.71 as they are top loading ones. It doesn't really matter but now I need to get new shock tower as well as I only have the shortest ones and 0.89 ones. I don't want to use the short ones.
They are 0.89 or at least they are the same length as B4 v2 front shocks, which definitely are 0.89. Where are they from? I thought they were 0.71 as they are top loading ones. It doesn't really matter but now I need to get new shock tower as well as I only have the shortest ones and 0.89 ones. I don't want to use the short ones.
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