Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Brushless, lipo, spectrum, etc...

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Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

I was looking for some hop ups for the 10t, and found the rpm 2.65 kit on towerhobbies, it says that it'll give the truck better acceleration, I was wondering, is it worth getting? doest it make a noticeable difference in acceleration??.

I'll probably end up getting it, I just wanted to have all my info before I purchase it.
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by Bugle »

Definitely worth getting for a truck. If you want to run a really fast brushed or brushless motor you won't be able to gear it low enough with the 2.25:1 stealth. That'd be the reason AE put a 2.6:1 stealth in the T2.
It's also worth getting a B3/T3 slipper as the original slipper has trouble holding the power from fast motors.

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

Cool, thanks for the info.
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by Bongo Fury »

Agreed for hot mods, and brushed stock. Even when you can get gearing, it would allow a slightly larger, more efficient, better wearing gear, with finer adjustment options.

But not for brushless stock, the 2.25 would be better, they need a lot of gear.

In a buggy the old ~1.8whatever would be better for 17.5 brushless. Or for Losis the older 2.18 JR & 2.19 XX retros.

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

Ok so, I'm planning on running the 17.5 brushless on the 10T, then the current tranny set up is better than the rpm conversion??
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by templeofspeed »

13.5 is going to be the new stock...

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

templeofspeed wrote:13.5 is going to be the new stock...
13.5 is comparable to a 19T, but for the vintage nationals, 17.5 is the stock class limit, i'm prepping my 10t to race at the nationals, after that, it's just going to be a basher. :wink:
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by Mr. ED »

From the above advises it sounds like you'll be fine at the vintage nats with the original as well as the RPM, so now you just need to think about what you'll use as motor for bashing ;)

I'd just save the money and choose the right motor for the gears you have :idea:

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

I'm running the RC10t and Losi XX, I'm going to be using either the Novak GTB (brushless), Novak GTX or Novak 410 m5 (brushed) I just don't know which to use on which, would the 10T benefit from the brushless more than the XX or vice versa?

As for motors:
On the 10T I have an Associated Stock motor, in very good condition, which I would use with a different recommended brush/spring combo (I don't know too much about motor tuning) and off course I would use it on the 10T, I wouldn't use an AE motor on a Losi, it's just not ethical :D :roll:

If not the AE motor, I would use this: Trinity Co27 Monster Stock Pro Motor on the Losi XX with the GTX Esc.

As for the brushless, I would use the Novak 17.5 motor.

Any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it. :D

I just want to have a combo, that'll give me good performance, but at the end, it's all about being able to finish the races strong.
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by Mr. ED »

just gut feeling : use the brusless on the 10T.
With the heavier weight and the larger tires it should give you both the benfit of stronger acceleration and keeping it easy to control

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

Awesome, that's the kind of stuff I like to hear, keep em coming people :wink:
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by Bongo Fury »

I’d go with the brushless on the truck too. Give the relatively delicate brushed motor the easier buggy load.

For the truck, Novak recommends a 7.5 Final Drive Ratio for a 17.5. We run just slightly lower FDR than that with good results. Using the 2.25 tranny, this works out to something like 87/26, or 83/25. The 2.65 would need around 82/29. As long as everything is in good shape, bearings and such, this is pretty safe, especially with a hard pack track. Just keep tabs on the esc and motor temp, should be able to touch them for a few seconds or more.

The brushed depends a lot more on the track and driver skill, how the motor is set up, and how hard you want to work it. More corner speed and less crashing allows more gear. I run my 2.19 XX CO27 at 22 or 23 with a 88 spur. But it does get pretty damn hot, I don't care much how long it lasts. At this point I’m only an average club driver, trying to work myself back some. In any event watch your practice run time, stay with 5-7 minutes at a time.

Suggest a fresh comm cut, for offroad use at least stiff red springs, preferably extra stiff purples. Better torque, less brush bounce on the bumps. The brushes that come with the CO27 aren’t too bad. I like the ‘F’ brush, not sure who actually makes them, several guys sell them. Or if you can bear it a Reedy 767 I think it is. Don’t forget 1 drop of oil on the bushings every run or two.

Good luck! (especially with the Losi, he he)

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

that's what i don't like about brushed motors, I never quite got how to cut the comm, I have a nice comm lathe, I just never figured how to use it correctly, I'll just have to practice with one of the Old motors I have.

So for the brushed XX w/ CO27, 19-21 with a 88 spur would be a safer bet??
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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by uzzi »

What sorts of problems are you having with comm cutting?

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Re: Is the RPM 2.65 Stealth Conversion worth getting??

Post by tecnica2001 »

The comm comes out kind of rough, not as smooth as other people I've seen do it. I use the black marker method, then I start nice and slow, when I see that the marker line starts to dissappear a little, I move it across the comm, but it comes out rough, maybe I need some type of oil, which one is recommended for cutting commutators??
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