Gold Tub Repair
Gold Tub Repair
Hi guys, got a few qtns to bother you. I've recieved a gold tub with lots of holes drilled for weight lightening. The worst thing is that the chassis is slightly bend upward. Any way to straighten the chassis. Also, any ideas to fill the holes like one of the guy here whom filled the graphite chassis? I've seen Sellery Metal Putty but wonder if it'll work? Thought of filling the holes up and respray the whole thing. Any advise very much appreciated. Thanks.
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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Re: Gold Tub Repair
or slice it and make some good sandwiches...
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Re: Gold Tub Repair
Probably have to weld in bits to fill large holes, not really worth it. You can straighten them, I set it up sitting on blocks of wood at each end of the tub part and jump on it.
Re: Gold Tub Repair
The Chassis on my Runner was bent upwards on both ends, and rather than just bend them back down, I actually manipulated the Sides outward a bit. It came out REALLY straight. You can see "before and after" pics here, http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4545 . Worked really well.
Re: Gold Tub Repair
Hi Monster, can you teach me how do you manipulate the sides? I tried with bare hands and they are abit too stiff...Thanks.MONSTER wrote:The Chassis on my Runner was bent upwards on both ends, and rather than just bend them back down, I actually manipulated the Sides outward a bit. It came out REALLY straight. You can see "before and after" pics here, http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4545 . Worked really well.
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Re: Gold Tub Repair
Well, Im pretty "old school", like Midevial, I used a Vice and a Rag
. Some of it I had to clamp the sides and bend, others I had to put one of the "creases" in the jaws (like this, ]<[) and "straighten" it, to push down on the front/rear of the Chassis. You can look at it, and experiment using your hands to see what effects different bends will make, then use the Vice/Rag put put enough pressure on it to make it stay.
Did that make any sense? It wasnt too hard to figure out, just give it a try.


Did that make any sense? It wasnt too hard to figure out, just give it a try.
Re: Gold Tub Repair
Hi Monster, i will give it a try but need to buy a big vice though. By the way, have you experienced filling unsightly holes on the chassis? They used to drilled lotsa holes on the chassis to lighten weight. Thanks alot buddy!MONSTER wrote:Well, Im pretty "old school", like Midevial, I used a Vice and a Rag![]()
. Some of it I had to clamp the sides and bend, others I had to put one of the "creases" in the jaws (like this, ]<[) and "straighten" it, to push down on the front/rear of the Chassis. You can look at it, and experiment using your hands to see what effects different bends will make, then use the Vice/Rag put put enough pressure on it to make it stay.
Did that make any sense? It wasnt too hard to figure out, just give it a try.
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Re: Gold Tub Repair
No, I actually LOOKED for one with holes to do my Runner.
I wanted it to really look like a Car that had been "Raced" back in the day. Like others have said, unless its a "look" you really want, its probably not worth it.
I guess you could cut it on out, and bolt in another sheet of Alminum (or whatever material you like), like the Carbon Chassis replacement seen in the "The official "lightweight" chassis thread". If you use lighter material, or maybe even thinner Aluminum, it might offset the weight of the Screws used to bolt it in.
Just thinking....outloud(?).

I guess you could cut it on out, and bolt in another sheet of Alminum (or whatever material you like), like the Carbon Chassis replacement seen in the "The official "lightweight" chassis thread". If you use lighter material, or maybe even thinner Aluminum, it might offset the weight of the Screws used to bolt it in.
Just thinking....outloud(?).

Re: Gold Tub Repair
A good design but also a expensive one due to the cost of the CF...
My collections:
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
Nikko Brat, Nikko Dictator II, Nikko Thunder Eagle, Kyosho Pure Ten Nitro, Associated RC10, Associated RC10T, Associated RC10 Graphite, Associated B4, Tamiya Tamtech 1/24 Porsche 962C, Tamiya Striker, Tamiya TRF 501X WCE.
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