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You've certainly put a lot of thought into your car and I can appreciate that.
Do you recall the part number for those Yokomo CVA shafts and if they are longer than the replaced Associated RC10 shafts?
Also, is that first image (top view) distorted or are you in fact running the front wheels toe-out?

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Dec 03, 2017 1:03 am Your down south from me a ways- what track are you headed to?

Have fun tomorrow! I haven’t raced in years but I still remember the sounds like it was yesterday!

“Corner corner corner!!!”
“Who’s on 76?”! Turn off your radios”

Hahaha

Haha... Ah, those were the days.

I designed a rear motor 4-link pan car once. Everyone said it wouldn't work (too much unsprung weight hanging off the back of the axle). Spent a month building it and it actually looked pretty nice (magnesium front axle beam and rear link stays). Showed it around, raced it once, handled like crap an...

SC10 is a B4 with long arms and a longer chassis. Like the B4, normally there's a large spur gear and a relatively small pinion and the gears are usually closer to the motor plate. Anyway, good luck with your race tomorrow.

Hmmm, maybe I need to get back on my extended outdrive project... Oh, sorry mk, I didn't mean to ignore your post. I'm not familiar with your extended outdrive project. Can you simply make a longer bone like the 9911? It appears to be a basic screw-machine part with a setup to do the cross pins and...

Thanks. Actually, I am running flanged bearings on both sides - plus all of the shims moved to the inside. My arrangement is just like the original RC10 except for the CV replacing a dogbone. I should have gotten the 3/16" axle CV arrangement instead of what I have. Oh well, live and learn. I'm...

So, I've been thinking about designing a hub carrier with a recessed bearing bore or maybe a slightly shorter arm to move the CV assembly inboard by a few mm's. Has Shapeways in the US resolved their durability problems (vis a vis the whole NIX91 issue)? Are there better alternatives short of replac...

Just received this morning...

Hey, thanks for the link, dldiaz. I've checked it out and copied a couple of the member's images here.
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Two of the most prevalent images on the internet today. Thank you Photobucket.

An SC10 posted on ebay. The description says it's geared to be fast. I donno but I would say it's geared to melt.

Hi R16, this is your first post so welcome to the forum. That's an interesting car with an interesting mix of vintage and new parts. With the battery mounted so far forward, you must have a high front/rear weight bias. Have you ever weighed the car? Also, the linkages attached to the rear bulkhead a...

Hey Peter I just checked your ProCAT instruction manual and was able to confirm it also uses 1/8" silicone o-rings for the shock seals. So, if you have spares from that car they likely will work in your RC10 shocks as well. Also, I just purchased 100 of these seals from an online source called ...

I found the same, and added a similar washer which all but removed the bump steer. I did the same to the front steering ball joint in the hub as there is a lot of bump steer on the front too. Hey thanks for replying. Yeah, in fact I am doing precisely the same thing to the front (added 3 x 0.6mm th...

Wow, that was quick. Looks great!

After assembling the re-re XLS’s rear suspension in accordance with the manual, I’ve noticed what I would consider an excessive amount of rear wheel bump-steer (perhaps 5 degrees or more per side). The manual has you adding a 2mm spacer under the inboard ball-stud so I added another 1.6mm nylon wash...