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Yes, I didn't mean that they should have used machine screws into the plastics, but that when compared to the machined metal posts of my Kyosho Optimas (which were of the same or slightly earlier generation) it felt like a cheaper option to have plastic posts and self-tappers. In fact I remember swa...

Can I ask the screw size for the replacement for example 2/56 unc 3 1/6 button will be a m3 3/16 long is that right or am I missing it? The old Schueys somehow managed to avoid metrification - M3 screws must have been a luxury because you only got a handful and these were reserved for fixings that ...

Looks very much like an outdrive to a Schuey diff to me (is that the same as a yoke? I lost track of all the terminology!) :mrgreen: I can't remember if they're the same on both sides but the axle bolt that goes through is a flat head (so you can put a screwdriver in sideways in-situ to adjust it!) ...

Oh my, I only just saw this. I can't believe you're selling it Luke! My own restore went on hold when the little one came along, now I fear that all those parts are never going to make it into a car that I'll actually race. :( Whoever gets this had better treasure it, cos it's a beauty! I only wish ...

This is killing me. I know what this goes to but for the life of me I can't remember. http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k545/gomachv/IMG_20121105_223325.jpg Looks a little shorter but my Tamiya Sand Rover had one of these at the back, as a rear guard and pick-up handle. It poked through the fibre...

Goatless wrote:Anyone?

Dammit I need one of those! How much you want for it?

They look like Traxxas shocks - Googling various Traxxas models reveals this:

http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=66405&id=5638
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=92275&sid=21969

Radicator?

mogul wrote: Apart from the front end damper design, what other changes were made to the cougar?

The Cougar also had slightly more swept forward rear wishbones, reducing the wheelbase slightly. Similar to (or possibly the same part as) the Procat.

Wow, those Cougar shocks look better than new - your restoration skills are amazing! :D Thanks for the advice - I was wondering if sandpaper would be too harsh so I'm glad I asked. My shafts have scratches on them too, so that might explain why the seals are shot. If I can polish them out and make t...

Got any tips on restoring original shocks? The seals are shot and the bodies and springs are badly tarnished so I doubt I'll get them usable again - I've got some replacements for when I get my kitty racing but it would be nice to have some concours units for photo shoots!

Damn I can tell this is gonna get beyond my price range already...

Jason, I was a bit greedy and bought two pairs for my rebuild, but it's going a lot slower than I anticipated (funds being the main problem!). If you're desperate, I can probably let a pair go? I don't ever remember breaking a set of sideplates b.i.t.d. so having two is probably a bit excessive, eve...

Coming in late to this discussion but I recall when anodising our paintball guns was all the rage; an anodised surface is much better at resisting corrosion but is more brittle. It scratched more easily and under temperature (like you might apply to break loctite) the anodised surface would crack. A...

I think the old Schumacher screws were self tapper #4s, which translates to something like 2.8mm over the thread. I used UNC 4/40 button heads in my Cat rebuilds, which held ok as they're slightly bigger despite having a finer thread. If you can get hold of 5/40 button heads then that's probably bet...

I think I must be the only person who never suffered from the belt problem on non-fenced front pulleys! :) Conversely, I did suffer from a shredded belt once after a particularly hard collision (before I did the clamp mod!) caused it to slip onto the 'fences' of the MMS front pulley which, as you kn...