Winter Budget Beater RC10EGT

[Toaster]

So I won the heap for $70 and almost instantly regretted it, not because of the amount but I have this funny feeling it is going to derail my original reason for building this project in the first place. Essentially bought it for the front and rear shocks, MIP steering, the slipper assembly and a front body post.

With all the rust and crust I could see in the pics, it was likely sitting outside and I will fear the worst when it comes to the diff/tranny and engine and hope for the best.

I am starting to think that maybe the white GT bits I was going to use were a little too good for a basher and might swap them out for another build and go for an all black build...will update when the heap gets dropped off

[RC10th]

$70 doesn't seem like too bad of a deal to me. You'll end up restoring it as well, it's a vicious cycle

[juicedcoupe]

I don't even like gas cars, and I'd give $70 for that.

[Toaster]

Well the first small bunch of bits for this project came in the mail this morning and the good thing with buying cheaper used bits is if you goof, it doesn’t hurt so much.

The rear associated tires are in good shape with a lot of tread left, so I am going to clean them up and mount them to some rims; ended up costing me $14 which seemed alright. The teflon shocks were actually for my Yokomo project but I ordered the wrong size (they are T rears) so they will likely be added to this pile. Then finally I goofed hard on the body, I mean it was $10 but not even remotely the right one (I think it is a T2 body)

[Toaster]

Of course you guys were likely right as I have had a real hard time leaving well enough alone. Ended up selling a couple of bits off this project and buying some replacements off of the bay to get it closer to what I wanted and it seems to be going from basher to restoration rather quickly lol

I always liked the white arm look, these were cheap enough and the blue paint was ‘fairly’ easy to remove (lots of scrapping and nail polish remover later) so I cleaned them up and mounted them to get a sense of what I had.

The heap arrive yesterday and I spent most of the day, tearing it down. It was a huge ball of rust unfortunately but the MIP steering was salvageable (minus the screws and nuts that I had to toss...that bad), shocks were in ok shape and thankfully the slipper assembly I was able to disassemble and will be using on the project. It also had lunsford’s on it which I was pretty happy to see, cleaned them up and threw them on as well. Still a long way to go and I will sell the remaining bits to keep myself from building yet another project before finishing this one and see if I can lower the investment in this one which is around $100 right now.

[Toaster]

Well juicedcoupe’s ‘heap’ is looking so good I was determined to at minimum give him a run for the money and dug my ‘heap’ out to get back to work.

As suspected by many on here, this is really starting to turn into a full restoration but I wanted to continue with my attempt on salvaging the used body, swapped out the shocks to maintain more of a blue look and threw on some blue aluminium screws sitting around (they are a little beat but at least they now match the coloration).

I am torn about continuing this as an EGT and will at least rebuild it closer to a GT and see how it looks before I potentially make a change. Thoughts? Suggestions?

[juicedcoupe]

Those are my kinda tires.

[Toaster]

Must....resist...complete...restoration...must...keeep...a...beater...arrgggg..the pain!!!!!

[RC10th]

Will you take $70 since you regret buying it so much

Looking pretty good, the white arms are a great touch and I like the color choice.

Are you stil going to run it?

[scr8p]

That's a nitro DS tub on that truck. Your're gonna have to run the 10t steering bellcrank for that to work properly.

[juicedcoupe]

That's a nitro DS tub on that truck. Your're gonna have to run the 10t steering bellcrank for that to work properly.

I just use short screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis, then put the bellcranks in the front holes.

[scr8p]

That's a nitro DS tub on that truck. Your're gonna have to run the 10t steering bellcrank for that to work properly.

I just use short screws to attach the nose plate to the chassis, then put the bellcranks in the front holes.

Yeah, or that.

[Toaster]

Hey guys, appreciate the heads up on the chassis. I have never owned a nitro DS so it must have been on one of the parts trucks I bought. Am I mounting the nose piece incorrectly? Never owned a GT before so am flying a little blind here. Had another chassis although a little discoloured, is this the proper chassis? Is it the flywheel gap that differentiates them?

[romulus22]

The nose of the chassis is shorter on the DS chassis

[Toaster]

Thank you Romulus22, cant believe I didn’t notice that difference when I was deciding what chassis to go with. Well now I have something RC related to do tonight so at least there is that hahaha