- Early Team Car resto -

[Asso_man!]

I grabbed this car a few days ago on eBay.de for about 100$. I just couldn't resist the price. There were no pictures of the underside of the chassis but a few bonuses like the Mr. R's Reedy motor, a NIP LiteSpeed Heatsink, Yokomo front and rear adapters together with Yokomo pink wheels. I was intrigued when I got it as the battery is offset and the tub is A-stamped. Then I remember Reggie's post about his Team Car build and came to the conclusion that the car I just bought is actually an early Team Car (older style gear cover, A-stamp chassis, offset battery cup placement, older style ball cups, no bumps in the tranny brace, thick 6 hole front shock tower, but unfortunately the OE spur gear has been replaced by a 87T Kimbrough spur gear). It must have been run once or twice and then stored in a dusty place. Perfect candidate for the peroxide treatment which I still need to try by myself. I'm quite happy with it Here are some pics:

[scr8p]

nice score, david. that should clean up nicely.

[slotcarrod]

Yup! Good score! What eBay did you find that? UK? Belgium? USA?

[Asso_man!]

Thanks guys, found it in Germany. Can't wait to clean it up and try the peroxide method, the Team Car was my very first RC10, I was 16

[Charlie don't surf]

Hey hey- nice score! I really need to build mine Hey David- did you take the tranny screws out yet? I'm curious to see if that chassis was factory countersunk ( I bet 99% it was ) but that's the first black "a" that I have seen for the stealth, I have seen only black 6 gear "a" stamp before.
and I hope that front and rear tower set comes out clean, it's fairly rare being the team car tower but the routed version VS the stamped ones

PS, I may have some NIP ball cups for that car

[templeofspeed]

That is a wonderful score, David! The closest I can come to that is a Graphite car with the same spec (Well, no offset battery cup holes, or stamped chassis...).

Sweet!

-g

[slotcarrod]

I wonder if that's an AB stamp? Under that NICE motor it has a B stamp over the A.

Note to self: Start looking on the German eBay!

[Asso_man!]

I wonder if that's an AB stamp? Under that NICE motor it has a B stamp over the A.

I took the motor out this morning and there is indeed a very light B stamp under the motor. The Stealth chassis holes were definitely factory countersunk.

Note to self: Start looking on the German eBay!

Oh no! That is the only place were I can still snag good deals with little or no competition, prices are generally sweet out there. I recently found a very nice Yokie for a hundred bucks as well (pics will come soon).

[Drusky]

What a nice surprise!

[slotcarrod]

Note to self: Start looking on the German eBay!

Oh no! That is the only place were I can still snag good deals with little or no competition, prices are generally sweet out there. I recently found a very nice Yokie for a hundred bucks as well (pics will come soon).

I wont do that to you, your too nice of a guy, and I just don't have any extra spending money, plus I don't speak German (apparently neither does Halgar! ). Good luck on more great deals! Just make sure you keep showing them to us!

[SnoopMaxx]

OH BOY OH BOY


(my wife speaks German )

[GJW]

great pick up dude. keen to see her all smick.

[Asso_man!]

Very small update here as I found some time to tear down the car completely and to scrub all the plastic parts. Next wednesday I'll try to find the top secret fluid that will make these parts as white as new hopefully. I'm especially curious about the Stealth trans case that is really yellowed. Overall the car seems to have been run a few packs only as I couldn't find any wear during the tearing down. Really happy with this one as it was my very first RC10 BITD. Stay tuned!

[SnoopMaxx]

oh that's a pretty sight

Morten

[Asso_man!]

So, the parts went through the whitening process pretty good, they now really look like new, if not better. As there is not so much sun right now in Belgium and the parts were really badly yellowed, I had to soak them for more than a week to achieve the result below. The trans case took a really long time before looking good and it did not get "chalky" after staying several days in hydrogen peroxyde as a member told me. In the mean time, I cleaned and buffed every ball studs and the rebuild started with the rear drive train. The car will look virtually new with only a few new screws replacing the rusted ones. Other than that, it will keep 99% of the original kit parts. I'm really happy with this one as the Team Car was the very first RC10 I could afford when I was 16. Stay tuned!