RC10 B4 tips and tricks

[Lonestar]

I set my b4 up according to the manual. The reared is really soft and bottoms out really hard. So hard that it crushed the endbell on the motor. I think I need to switch out to some stiffer springs and shock pistons? Would an aluminum motor guard help or are they just for looks?

shouldn't bottom out that hard unless you jump 15ft in the air and land it on the back wheels only... if bottoming out hard, you need to go smaller piston holes to get more pack and lighter oil to get the same "static" damping.

alum parts are mostly for look and then for weight distro. But you don't want extra weight there

Paul

[Kayne]

Well I am just learning to drive. I have been running on a track set up for 1/8th trucks . With nimh batteries it does really good. I just got a 4000 mah lipo and it cooks. I did get a little crazy on the jumps . But it was doing it with the nimh batteries as well. I guess I'll just stock up on some motors.

[JHarris]

You need to get the car to land nose down. Try not leaving the atmosphere with your altitude and then hit the brake in the air. You could also run a stiffer spring in the rear. If compression is an issue try 35 or 40wt with #2 pistons and silver springs in the back. Set the ride height to bones level. Don't neglect the front though. Usually a change on one end means a change on the other. If you go that stiff in the back (which happens to be where my car is at the moment) you will need to go with something like 40wt with #1 pistons in the front with brown springs.

[Kayne]

I'm running with what came in the kit.brown springs and 35wt oil. Do any manufacturer's sell endbells? The Orion sv2 I am running has an epic endbell. I am guessing it was switched out before I got it because it looks like the one that comes on the komodo motors and it has epic stamped on it.

[kaiser]

i burned out the rear outer hub bearing the other night. (it vaporized lol)

i had been using racers edge alloy hubs but replaced them with stock b44 hubs that take the larger outer bearing.

[adam lancia]

Don't forget that the B44 rear hubs use a different bearing spacer between the inner and outer bearing in the hub, it's a little thinner than the one for the stock B4 rear hubs.

[kaiser]

Don't forget that the B44 rear hubs use a different bearing spacer between the inner and outer bearing in the hub, it's a little thinner than the one for the stock B4 rear hubs.

what, what? theres supposed to be a spacer in there?

the bearings don't "seat" into the hub, they rest on a spacer?

great.....this is what i get for getting a used car that i didn't build.

i guess i'm off to order spacers.

[adam lancia]

The bearings do sit into the hubs but the spacers are in there to allow you to tighten the wheel nuts without binding the bearings. They do last longer this way as well.

[Lonestar]

what, what? theres supposed to be a spacer in there?

called a "crush tube" so you can tighten the wheelnut without straining the bearings. Check the instruction manual

Paul

[kaiser]

thanks, i already checked. hopefully my track's shop has some in stock.

this is the first car i ever owned that i didn't build myself.

[adam lancia]

Crush tube! That was the phrase I was looking for. A little more self explanitory than spacer too...

[kaiser]

thanks for the help guys, i was able to get the crush tubes last nite.

then my gtb died. oh well....time to send it to novak.

[soniccj5]

I just got a FT B4 and thought I would revisit this thread.

I am about to place an order, and wanted to know if there was any additional parts I should buy to make the B4 stronger.




Thanks,

ED

[askbob]

May have to get one of those.

[soniccj5]

Just installed a +8mm chassis.