RC10GT fuel tank dilemma

[exitrooster]

Recently I picked up a used RC10GT. It's a red bodied truck with a blue frame. The previous owner insisted it worked, but hadn't been touched in well over a year, and might need some work getting it running again. On a whim, I picked it up making it my first 'Non-retail shop' (read non New Bright and the like) foray into RC cars.

After bringing it home, I found the pull start to be completely frozen. I took it to a shop and they recommended replacing the engine, saying most likely the previous owner burnt the engine up. A friend who is big into rc cars hinted that could be true, but advised trying to tear it apart (the engine) and soaking it with wd-40 with the hopes of breaking it free. Doing this worked, much to my surprise and I thought the battle was over after rebuilding it and remounting it.

I went back to the hobby shop for a new glow starter. The one I had was a rechargeable one, and there was some corrosion on the battery which led me to think that it may be bad, also had to pick up fuel. I bought a cheap-o 'c' cell glow warmer, kind of as a backup, because after cleaning the battery up, it did seem to hold a charge. (needle went high into green when connected to glow plug).

After putting a little fuel in the engine (under the glow plug) I got it to whir briefly to life a couple times, but could never get it to stay running. Debating on the confusing adjustments and not knowing which might do what and what way to turn them (buddy told me there'd be three screws), I started looking elsewhere thinking no way are those things not set yet. Clearly this thing had been run before and had to be at least sort of set up/adjusted already. That's when I saw it.. The line coming out of the back of my tank was loose busted, and after touching it once or twice more, it fell off.

I immediately went back to the hobby shop and showed the fellas my tank, but alas they didn't stock any team associated rc10 series tanks. They took my info and said they'd give me a call (it was yesterday/Sunday). At home, irritated at being so close to seeing this thing run, and curious as to whether it came to me like this, or whether I inadvertently 'bumped' it while messing with the motor, I started looking online for tanks. That's when I made my discovery..

I don't know what tank this thing is, but it isn't the stock on 7719 I think it is, that is supposed to be with the car.

As you can see in the image below, it is not what 99% of the web images show. Most show a white lidded, non-internal fuel filtered unit. I did see one place selling a black lid with metal connector (the white ones are plastic, I realize this part doesn't necessary matter at all), but the other big difference is that the one's I see on the net don't have a fuel filter, whereas the one on my car DOES have a fuel filter inside. It also has the hookup to go from the tank to the engine in the back, and has a non-pierced place to connect something on the top/front part of the tank.

There are no identifying marks anywhere on it, that I have seen, making it a tough nut to crack. I spent several hours searching for rc10gt compatible tanks, and found hundreds of them, all looking like the 7719 just with different name.

Does anyone know tank this may be, or where to find other tanks that are NOT the 7719 that I could look into? I'm sure I could order the regular 7719, but I'm no dummy, I like the idea of having a fuel filter (and the car was set up for such).

As a side note, the air filter rubber adapter that goes from the body of the car out is not stock, either. It is an oval-shaped device, and I mention this because it has no filter ON it. Any idea what it may be, where to get an oval filter? I can provide pics of that as well if necessary, not sure if it's a common thing or not..

The engine is a pull start .15, if that matters..

I'm new to the hobby, as mentioned, so please give me that 'new guy' mentality Thanks for the time,

e_R

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

Not sure what that tank is, but the 7719 does have a stone filter on the tank insert. I never had any issues with the stock tank. To be extra safe you can also install an in-line fuel filter like the one linked below. Good Luck

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK134&P=ML

[klavy69]

It's an OEM tank to it. They had black lids and white lids and same color as tank lids. The newer tanks will have the lid turned around opposite this one so you can fuel up thru the windshield airflow hole on the body. But then again I've gotten NOS old tanks when I've ordered them also but either way it'll work for you. And just like Thumber stated with the extra filter...these motors get expensive and the extra insurance of another filter is cheap.
Todd

[exitrooster]

So the 7719 does have the connector on the back like the one in my photo? I don't doubt ya'll, don't get me wrong, but it seems the photos on the online stores show no connector there at all, nor any mention of a filter inside. They look empty and have two connectors on the top only. Just want to verify, as the shops here don't have them, so I have to buy this online without being able to see/compare..

[justinspeed79]

That is the RTR version of the tank, the 7719 tank is slightly different like Todd mentioned, but is still a direct replacement for that tank, you just need to route the fuel/pressure lines a little different. The difference will be obvious, and easy to work out, when you go to install the new tank. There have been many changes to the GT tank design over the years, but they have all been minor, and they are all compatible. That being said, the newest version is the best. Also, there were a run of bad tanks a few years ago, they are probably all gone by now, but when you get a new tank shake it to see if the stone filter rattles inside the tank, if it does you will have pickup problems when the fuel level gets near half full. Associated was sending out new tanks no questions asked back when this originally happened, not sure if they still would, but the bottom line is if it rattles you need a new one. This was also an issue with the GT2 when it first came out.

I disagree about adding a second fuel filter, the stone filter in the tank is excellent, adding an additional filter is only going to increase the chances of getting an air leak, and is just one more thing to worry about. I have been running GT's since 94', and originally did use a second filter, but after a couple years of never seeing a single spec of anything in the extra filter, I stopped using them, and have never had a single issue since then.

[justinspeed79]

So the 7719 does have the connector on the back like the one in my photo? I don't doubt ya'll, don't get me wrong, but it seems the photos on the online stores show no connector there at all, nor any mention of a filter inside. They look empty and have two connectors on the top only. Just want to verify, as the shops here don't have them, so I have to buy this online without being able to see/compare..

The fuel pickup is now on top of the tank, the fuel line simply goes into a recessed area in front of the lid, similar to where the pressure line used to go. The pressure line now goes on a fitting in the lid, just like the RTR tank you have. That recessed area on the RTR tank is where the pressure line used to go, and on the new tanks that is where the pickup line goes, but the fitting sits further back on the tank.

[exitrooster]

Good deal then.. Just ordered one, and picked up an air filter set as well.. Didn't seem to be any oval ones, figured since a tank would already be coming from them, might as well get the other thing I'll need anyway Can't wait for it to get here, lol. Would appreciate any tips/etc for a new rc guy

[victor_cathedral]

that GT will go fast, so you might want to have a friend with you before you go running, to stand by the truck and do a radio distance check for you. just have him/her stand by your truck with the engine off, and listen to the servos, while you walk away while moving the steering and throttle. make sure you can get a good distance and still be controlling the servos just a thought considering the condition of the gummed up fuel in the motor, its probably been sitting for a few years, who knows the condition of the radio gear, if it came from the same guy. you dont want your new truck to go out of control and crash, right when you get it running from my experience,.. that is the exact moment things usually go out of control,. the 1st time you get it started haha

[exitrooster]

That's some good advice and something I didn't think about.. Tnx for the heads up, have to check that out tomorrow since it can be easily done now while I await parts.

On that thought, currently the previous owner had 4 AA's in a radio-shack lookin' battery holder zip-stripped to the back of the truck. What kind of setup would have been there originally? Same thing (maybe it's not from ratshack, lol), or something solid and together like a rechargeable battery pack? The only guy I know who does big money RC stuff seemed to think it should have had a rechargeable setup, and that the guy prolly clipped it off for some reason (died/wouldn't hold a charge?) and decided to to the AA route instead.

[klavy69]

That 4 AA battery assy is stock. As a hopup I'd recommend going to a 6v receiver pack like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ORION-12227-MARATHON-6-volt-1600-mAh-NiMH-RECEIVER-PACK-/270629160744?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f02c14728

Yes, the best advice for a nitro newbie IMHO is to install a throttle return spring like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-Throttle-Return-Spring-w-Eyelet-/230583746702?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35afdcc08e

I put them on all of my nitros. If you lose battery power to your servo while running drops back to idle using this. As a newbie at one time myself this spring saved my ride a few times. Once because using the crap 4 AA cell battery holder breaking and a few from some hard rear hits ripping battery leads off . Yeah, thats another story though .
Todd

[jwscab]

probably a rechargeable Nicd pack. Probably not an issue. Actually, alkalines have a slightly higher working voltage, so it might benefit you, 6v pack vs 4.8v, unless the pack was a 5 cell pack.

as long as it works ok and gives you good range, it should not matter.