Cutting a Protech properly

[Lonestar]

Hi all

I am currently putting a stealth CE runner together... with a Protech body, which I like so much more than the Viper. The body was painted before being 100% cut, however now I am struggling to cut the body to clear the rear shocks without taking what looks like too much material. Either there's indeed a lot that needs to be taken off to allow easy removal/installation of the body, either I'm doing something really really wrong...

Can you post a few close-up pics of your installed Protech bodies around the rear shock tower area? Any "tips"?

thanks for the help

Paul

[Charlie don't surf]

I hate cutting painted bodies But I would cut it about 1/8'" ( 3mm ) inside of the cut line, then go back with a dremel and a sanding drum to finish it little by little-

[Lonestar]

I hate cutting painted bodies But I would cut it about 1/8'" ( 3mm ) inside of the cut line, then go back with a dremel and a sanding drum to finish it little by little-

Well there is no cut line that I can see around the rear tower That's my whole issue!

what do your protech's look like around the rear shock tower guys?

thanks!
Paul

[m_vice]

I hate cutting painted bodies But I would cut it about 1/8'" ( 3mm ) inside of the cut line, then go back with a dremel and a sanding drum to finish it little by little-

X 2

[Ruffy]

Look in the gallery section, there are quite a few bodies shown cut and hopefully one that suits you.

Good Luck!

[tamiyadan]

.

[Lonestar]

Look in the gallery section, there are quite a few bodies shown cut and hopefully one that suits you.

Good Luck!

Hi Ruffy - you can probably guess the gallery is the first place I checked

Most cars in the gallery are shelf queens and show bodies that are cut unrealistically for runners, in a way that simply makes it impossible for the user to remove the body without removing at least the shocks away from the shock towers, and in many cases the 4-40 bolt too... hence me asking for "runner" body pics, with a close-up around the shock mount area so I can see how much is needed for removal without going overboard....

Anyone willing to post pics of their cars if they fit the bill?

thanks!
Paul

[Lonestar]

it should be noted for the most part if you cut the bodies on all the cut lines to try and match box art it makes it very hard to install and remove unless you start going further and unscrewing the tops of the shocks off the towers to make clearance to carefully seat the bodies.

exactamundo Looking for pics of the minimum to remove to make it functional while not butt-ugly

Paul

[Ruffy]

Oh I see what you mean:
The pics in my gallery then are of cars where I have removed the material sufficient to have an easily removeable body. I don't like having to jump thru hoops to remove the body so mine have big openings for the tower and suspension.
I just remove the clips and body washers and the body will literally fall off if you shake the car a little. Even my shelfers are ready to go out to the track. Believe it or not the body in the picture below was actually raced at an indoor track.
I bet mine are what you consider "too much material removed" though.

[shodog]

On mine I trimmed the minimal amount needed. it is difficult to get the body off without scratching

[Lonestar]

useful - thanks both Ruffy this looks like what I need. And, true, I can't believe your raced that beauty Mine will sure be a runner, but certainly not as fine as yours!

I know what to do now

thanks
Paul

[esaresky75]

I have the same wing trimmed the same way and want to mount it the same way using the tear-dropped shaped mounts and not have holes in the front of the wing for the wire to pass. Do I flex the lexan that much?

[esaresky75]

NEVER MIND! I couldn't wait, I got everything set and dipped into 150 degree water for 30 seconds and flexed the edge to pass the wire. Will post pics soon as it's just about finished.

[Lonestar]

Body was cut... a bit of a hack job in the end really as it has to be removed/put back on easily , will post pics soon. I'm soooo excited as this'll be my first rc10 runner

Paul