Handling probs and Spin outs on race day......

[dspy8083]

I am having some issues with my graphite RC10; high speed cornering and spin outs. I just raced it last night and I do feel pretty satisfied as far as improvements go. Here is my setup:

RC10T shocks up front, green springs 20W
rear blue springs
Klein arms front and rear
brushless castle 4 pole and Lipo
ESC brakes set very low to minimize spin out when braking
Bar Code tires at all fours (green)
Ride height front and rear at about 20mm (.800")
2 degree negative camber at all fours
30 stock caster blocks
Toe in, zero, toe out have been tried; toe out seems to result in too much steering response and less stable on straight aways.

68% weight to the rear (I have experimented with balance going as light at 64% rear which caused a loss of acceleration traction. Being at 68% rear, I am still satisfied with my steering bite as low-medium speed cornering is good. Also when the rear was too light (64%), if I hit a jump wrong and slapped the chassis at the peak of the jump, the rear end would lift up and flip over.

My biggest problem seems to be high speed cornering. The car just seems 'choppy' and not smooth like the new cars.

1. Is this an inherent balance issue with the RC10?
2. Is this maybe a caster angle issue? *I have noticed the new cars don't have so much of an angle to the front control arms.
3. Should I change caster blocks to 20 or maybe 15 degrees?

Thank you guys for your input!

[farmer]

I am having some issues with my graphite RC10; high speed cornering and spin outs. I just raced it last night and I do feel pretty satisfied as far as improvements go. Here is my setup:

RC10T shocks up front, green springs 20W
rear blue springs
Klein arms front and rear
brushless castle 4 pole and Lipo
ESC brakes set very low to minimize spin out when braking
Bar Code tires at all fours (green)
Ride height front and rear at about 20mm (.800")
2 degree negative camber at all fours
30 stock caster blocks
Toe in, zero, toe out have been tried; toe out seems to result in too much steering response and less stable on straight aways.

68% weight to the rear (I have experimented with balance going as light at 64% rear which caused a loss of acceleration traction. Being at 68% rear, I am still satisfied with my steering bite as low-medium speed cornering is good. Also when the rear was too light (64%), if I hit a jump wrong and slapped the chassis at the peak of the jump, the rear end would lift up and flip over.

My biggest problem seems to be high speed cornering. The car just seems 'choppy' and not smooth like the new cars.

1. Is this an inherent balance issue with the RC10?
2. Is this maybe a caster angle issue? *I have noticed the new cars don't have so much of an angle to the front control arms.
3. Should I change caster blocks to 20 or maybe 15 degrees?

Thank you guys for your input!

ok ill take a stab and asume that you are running on a nuetral track not blue groove not wet. so here are the probs that i see,to soft in front and way to stiff on the rear try this
run 30 with #1s and silver springs front im running the stock single hole tower and andys single hole a-arms camber link inside hole on tower running b2 blades soft like a m3 compound wide fronts that are really scrubed
run 20 with 3s and green springs rear camber inside top on rear BH green jconcepts goosebumps
as far as tow out and in, here goes toe in will give you more stabability in the straights and SLOW your immediate turn in, in the turn but give u a lil more mid way and coming out YOU SHOULD RUN ABOUT 1.0 TO 1.5, camber is also another thing also so is,trailing vs inline front axles toe out will cause your car to wander down the straights and be a lil unpredictable,,in the turns it will have a real quick turn in then scrub off through the rest of the turn,with your back end swapping around thats most likely in your set up do you have any rear toe in? i mean there could be a hundred different reasons but i hope this helps

[Charlie don't surf]

I am having some issues with my graphite RC10; high speed cornering and spin outs. I just raced it last night and I do feel pretty satisfied as far as improvements go. Here is my setup:

RC10T shocks up front, green springs 20W Start with 35w and #3 pistons if you have enoug
rear blue springs
Klein arms front and rear
brushless castle 4 pole and Lipo
ESC brakes set very low to minimize spin out when braking
Bar Code tires at all fours (green)
Ride height front and rear at about 20mm (.800")
2 degree negative camber at all fours
30 stock caster blocks
Toe in, zero, toe out have been tried; toe out seems to result in too much steering response and less stable on straight aways.

68% weight to the rear (I have experimented with balance going as light at 64% rear which caused a loss of acceleration traction. Being at 68% rear, I am still satisfied with my steering bite as low-medium speed cornering is good. Also when the rear was too light (64%), if I hit a jump wrong and slapped the chassis at the peak of the jump, the rear end would lift up and flip over.

My biggest problem seems to be high speed cornering. The car just seems 'choppy' and not smooth like the new cars.

1. Is this an inherent balance issue with the RC10?
2. Is this maybe a caster angle issue? *I have noticed the new cars don't have so much of an angle to the front control arms.
3. Should I change caster blocks to 20 or maybe 15 degrees?

Thank you guys for your input!

Start with(F) a 35w-32.5w #3, 3 thin internal limiters, green to blue front springs with the standard lower perches, lower outer hole on the arms, middle hole on the tower.
30 deg caster blocks (25's are more forgiving on entry, but cause more high speed push) ~make sure you shim the bump steer out on the steering arms with 2 washers when using 30deg blocks~
Don't go more than -1 camber with treaded tires, unless you have some serious off camber corners or you have to turn on jump downsides to set up for the corner, otherwise you kill the effectiveness of the tread-
1-2 deg front toe in numbs the car's steering overall, and calms the car down in high speed sections and rough sections as well
3deg (T2) rear toe blocks (3 deg per side) with 0deg outer hubs
30-27.5w #1 (drilled out with a #54 bit w/ 30w) 6 thin internal limiters, green to black springs using the V2 taller lower spring perch outer lower arm hole, furthest inboard shock tower hole.

If you were slapping the rear chassis on jump faces it can mean your ride height is too low, your oil/piston/spring is too light

Don't focus on weight percentages until your car is in the range of a good setup- then minor changes can be utilized-

[dspy8083]

Thank you very much, I will give this a try next time out! I will advise.....

[Lonestar]

does it still have that funky front mono setup?

Paul

[dspy8083]

No. I went to a T front tower and I am using long shocks up front. I never actually ran the car like that.

[Jay Dub]

Long front shocks = bad...