Suspension / handling questions

[RC104ever]

Hey everyone, so I was out the other day driving my B44 and then drove my hopped up RC10. What amazes me is that the B44 is so...stable. No matter how fast you turn it, accelerate or brake, then thing is just unflappable. The RC10 is like an old 50's muscle car that doesn't turn or brake very well but its hella fast in a straight line.

SO...my question is, what can I do to improve the handling setup on the RC10?

I'm already running 2.2" wheels on Dirt Hawg tires, with RPM arms front / rear. I have a front sway, but am still trying to figure out a way to run a sway in the back and I think I have a solution, but I will need to switch to use the Dynatech arms and my CVD's that I have lying around.

I am also using B44 threaded shocks, with #1 piston and 30 wt oil up front, 20 wt in the rear I believe. Can't remember which springs but I think they are the Gold ones? I have the green, blue, red or whatever the other ones are in the package.

The really funny thing is that my son's RC10 with stock arms, shocks etc is actually a lot more forgiving than my car, lol.

[Charlie don't surf]

Your 2wd car will never feel as good as your wheeler- try the B44.1FT indoor setup on your 2wd car, it worked great on my sons's B4.1 and really calmed it down on the track-

[RC104ever]

So what's the b44.1 ft setup? I need details please

[teman]

I've been looking at these setup sheets, not sure how good they are or anything
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associated/SetupSheetsAssociatedRC10.htm

[Charlie don't surf]

http://teamassociated.com/setupsheets/B44.1/

Suspension only, let's not over tighten the front diff

[RC104ever]

Excellent, thanks!

[RC104ever]

Okay so I did some changes as above and also put the Klein arms on the back. Now it is more stable and doesn't want to flip all the time.

But, it still spins out when I hit the brakes. Ive checked my front alignment and I think it's good.

Any suggestions? I think the blue front springs are too stiff, and the green rears a bit soft. I also might have a way to install a rear sway bar so that might help.

[Jay Dub]

Blue front springs are way to stiff for most applications. Usually in race trim, black or green is normal. As far as braking is concerned, on a 2wd car you need to turn the brakes down until the wheels stop locking up. This will keep the car tracking under braking. Try a stiffer rear spring too. I have found in most applications (with new rubber compounds) that the green springs are too soft, and allow too much chassis roll (lessening traction). I currently run silvers or blues, with the shocks layed in all the way at the top. This will provide more traction and allow the chassis to roll evenly. -Jeff

[RC104ever]

Excellent, thanks Jeff. I figured the brakes were locking up and because the chassis was unbalanced that was causing it to skid.

I will try that and report back! Hopefully I can get it dialed in more so it won't be as hairy to drive on my street, lol.

[RC104ever]

Hey everyone, I just thought of another question - what do you guys use to adjust your alignment? ie. toe in / toe out, camber, ride height.

[Goatless]

I use a Hudy set-up board.
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=262&Hudy_Session=00985e8bdcb1c57ec2b9fc817c799dde

[dspy8083]

I am having similar problems with my graphite RC10; high speed cornering and spin outs. I just raced it last night and I do feel pretty satisfied as far as improvements go. Here is my setup:

RC10T shocks up front, green springs 20W
rear blue springs
Klein arms front and rear
brushless castle 4 pole and Lipo
ESC brakes set very low to minimize spin out when braking
Bar Code tires at all fours (green)
Ride height front and rear at about 20mm (.800")
30 stock caster blocks
Toe in, zero, toe out have been tried; toe out seems to result in too much steering response and less stable on straight aways.
68% weight to the rear (I have experimented with balance going as light at 64% rear which caused a loss of acceleration traction. Being at 68% rear, I am still satisfied with my steering bite as low-medium speed cornering is good. Also when the rear was too light (64%), if I hit a jump wrong and slapped the chassis at the peak of the jump, the rear end would lift up and flip over.

My biggest problem seems to be high speed cornering. The car just seems 'choppy' and not smooth like the new cars.

1. Is this an inherent balance issue with the RC10?
2. Is this maybe a caster angle issue? *I have noticed the new cars don't have so much of an angle to the front control arms.
3. Should I change caster blocks to 20 or maybe 15 degrees?

Thank you guys for your input!

[RC104ever]

Whoa, you just spouted a bunch of stuff. I didn't totally understand. Can you add some pics with your questions so I can understand your setup?

I have to admit, I'm totally a trial and error kind of guy, and don't look at the real numbers side of things.

[Goatless]

Try adding weight to the front to minimize the on power push. I run a lead weight on top of my servo.

As far as the back-end kicking over in mid-air, it sounds like your rear springs are too stiff. That or try adjusting your spring collars.

[farmer]

hows about telling us what type of track you are running one (bluegroove,wet,dust ,rutts etc etc)
i can give you set ups all day, but a blue groove setup is going to be a handfull on a wet and loamy
i have noticed on my goldie that it likes a softer setup i have a couple of vids on here driving it take a look! any help needed just let me know