Ive always wondered why Losi made the few steering parts for the xx series white, maybe its the material they had to use? who knows. So I decided to try and Dye these parts in RIT fabric dye and I think they came out pretty good. I've included a few pictures of the final product one with a flash and the other not. Hard to explain how they look other than black chrome without the shine with a hint of gold. The picture with flash doesnt look as good as in person thats why included the other picture, In real person they fall somewhere in between the 2.
Sleeps with a night light on, not because he's scared of the dark but because the dark is scared of him...........stay thirsty my friends
I Think the first gen XX had black plastic steering parts & maybe the front bulk head.
The white steering arms are made with a stronger nylon & has adj ackerman. I did break a set on my XX. The updated set first came out on the CR. The white bulk head was a latter update again.
I've done this quite a few times with the losi parts. I've tried lots of different colours and they all come out quite well. Would like to get some fluo dye to try and get the same colour steering parts as the old jrx series cars....
slapshot1979 wrote:And here I thought I was doing something a little different. sheesh
Hehehe! I got a set of XXT natural wheels dyed with what I hoped was 'hot orange' like the JRXT, but they didnt turn out too hot, so they are to be black now
On the subject of dyeing Losi XX parts such as the front bulkhead, steering arms and drive shaft yokes, how long are you leaving them in for?? I know that the longer you leave the parts on simmer in the dye, the more colour that the part will absorb but how long until saturation???
I'm also interested in having a go at dyeing some Pro-Line wheels black but I want them to be 'jet black' and not a dark grey. I've seen some RC10 parts that have been dyed but they look like they could have been left for longer.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
K
~I'm a lot older now than I was then and wish that I knew then what I know now~
Probably about 20-30 mins I'd say, just keep inspecting them every 5 mins or so, if they are not taking very quickly, add some more dye and salt in, they will turn eventually.
I gave this a shot a few months back. I wanted to dye some white/natural parts pink. I used rit fuschia pink.
Even though i didnt find a pink i really liked it was fun playing around with the dye, messing with the timings etc. I think i read in Derbydans yoke thread that the pink colour can be sharpened with a pinch of rit tangerine? Ive ordered rpm purple rod ends for this particular build. Contrasting purple is easier than dye matching the springs!
The steering assembly seems quite a hard plastic and visibly took longer to 'soak' the dye up in comparison to the other parts i had. Worth noting.
urpaldan wrote:I gave this a shot a few months back. I wanted to dye some white/natural parts pink. I used rit fuschia pink.
Even though i didnt find a pink i really liked it was fun playing around with the dye, messing with the timings etc. I think i read in Derbydans yoke thread that the pink colour can be sharpened with a pinch of rit tangerine? Ive ordered rpm purple rod ends for this particular build. Contrasting purple is easier than dye matching the springs!
The steering assembly seems quite a hard plastic and visibly took longer to 'soak' the dye up in comparison to the other parts i had. Worth noting.
Looks good - those parts seem to have taken the colour really well. A couple of questions:
How long did you leave them in for?
Did you use salt and if so, how much?
Thanks.
~I'm a lot older now than I was then and wish that I knew then what I know now~
I didnt use salt from what i remember. The rod ends only need 3-4mins while the steering assembly needed around 10mins. If you keep checking them its easy enough to judge how long to leave them in the dye. I think it would have gone almost red if i had left it much longer.
Dont know if this is the correct place to post my question, but how are you guys dying your parts? And can parts already dyed become black easily?
Thanks
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if you could find the online copy of rcca january 1989, read up on the article to dye or not to dye . great write up on how to dye parts. i've been using it ever since i bought the magazine.
you could get the whole year of rcca 1989 from doug at:
So looking I'm seeing 3 brands of popular dyes for synthetic...
RIT Dyemore
Dylon Multipurpose
Jacquard iDye
Anyone have recent experience? I understand RIT's regular dyes changed formula some years back and don't work nearly as well.
BONUS if...
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Rit standard dyes I haven't had any luck with lately. It used to be my go to. The Dyemore is fabulous on nylon. I was shocked how well and how quickly my fiberglass towers took also. In the past, even the good old stuff took forever. The Dyemore...
Guys, i won an old unbuilt 2WD RC500 on ebay. The guy that owned it previously dyed all the nylon parts red. I want to dye them black as the red is inconsistient. Any tips on dying nylon parts? I thought i read somewhere before that dying the nylon...
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You should have no problem dying them black. I like RIT dye which can be bought at most supermarkets.
I have also heard that boiling the parts relieves the stress of the molding process but I don't have any data to back that up.
I just tried to dye a buch of parts and ended up with a very bad result. I have doe this before many times with success but this dye brand seems not to work at all. Just ended up with brownish parts instead of pure black. In the instruction...
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^It's a LOT longer than for nylon. Just leave them in until they are done. The longer you leave them the darker they get. Try an hour or so, it shouldn't do them any harm at all so don't worry.
Will using Rit black dye cause my death?......I mean will my wife kill me for turning her pot black?
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Will dying parts wreck my pot? Just don't drop your pot in the die and it should be fine... :mrgreen: A coffee can on the grill.... Works like a charm.
Think the coffee can idea is best if you don't have a junk pot.
Are there any alternative steering parts I can use for my RC10?
I'm thinking something with bearings like the MIP system. Ive got some NIP original steering linkage parts but want to use something a little stronger for racing.
Thanks
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Did you see these?..they are cheap enough and period correct..
I have these but not sure how good they are as the plate is attached via only screws with copper plate with no bearings.
I'm going to race a Losi XX and I'm running into issues with the amount of steering, specifically to the right.
Just to put it out there, the radio is maxed, I've used many servos. But I haven't tried a longer servo arm.
Without the servo,...
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Yeah, they are very different. I always found brushless to have more punch with the same top end. Basically same horsepower but much more torque through out the entire power band.
I have a rc10 steering parts,but I not a rc10 guy, so no idea about this.just want to know who made it? it just fit and rc10 front long arms and rc10t
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No idea what can be improved by using this setup. But it looks interesting. 8)