New Car

[trek]

Ok, So I got my new to me car today. This is the car that I will be taking apart, cleaning, and putting in numbered bags like a new car. I'm going to make it as close to a new in the box car. This car will be a gift for my girls for christmas. My older girl is already helping me work on my current car. I have a bearing kit coming for the car and I just recieved the Tekin Rebel ESC (still needs to be tested). I have the Airtronics XL2P radio that came with the car as well. The car doesn't look too used, a bit dirty but there aren't too many scratches on the pan. Everything seems pretty solid so far.
I will be getting a new body and wing as well so we can go through the fun of painting and "decorating". I don't think I am going to have too many other hop-ups at the start.

Car as it showed up

Pink wheels - It will be a girls car.....

Tekin Rebel ESC

[trek]

I just looked at the beat up box that came with the car and it appears it is an Edinger

[THEYTOOKMYTHUMB]

I love the fact that it has an original name. White Flight. Pretty cool score.

[vintage AE]

definitely a nice score. Looks like it will clean up nice.

[trek]

Broken down. Cleaning is next

[slotcarrod]

Great idea, building it like a new kit, bonding with your girls! Looks like a very nice car to resto!

[trek]

Had to go to the local hobby store to get some deans connectors so I could make an adapter to test the Rebel ESC. After a bit of soldering the ESC seems to work!

[SFC K]

Nice find! I like the body as well with the old script. Pretty neat.

[trek]

So I've got most of the parts cleaned up. I am amazed on how well Simple Green does in cleaning up these cars. I found out I no longer have my allen wrench for the tiny little screws that hold the bearings in the gears in the tranny. Once I get the bearings out of the gears I should be ready for boiling the parts. Then I should be able to get everything put in their "orginal" bags.

[Timmy2Tracks]

Looks Great so far. I will be curious to see how all the parts come out after boiling them...

[jwscab]

yep, my process is to brush and scrape off big chunks of dirt and crud, then drop all the nylon into a jar of simple green, for at least a night. Then toothbrushes, pipe cleaners and some scubbing brings them up beautifully.

just use caution on metal parts, if you dunk them. steel, titanium, fiberglass, no problem. aluminum will get a dark haze or possiblly corrode depending on the alloy. so you can use it for scrubbing and washing immediately after, but not a dunk and soak. If it's anodized, just use dish detergent and water, no simple green.

after boiling the nylon, if you are not dyeing it, there will be pretty much no change. If you boil too long, it will eventually distort the parts, particularly the rear bulkhead, so keep the boil time short. 5 minutes in a rolling boil should be more than enough but keep and eye on it.

if you have any staining like rust or dye from sitting next to a dyed part, you can carefully scrape the surface with an exacto until the blemish is gone.

[Timmy2Tracks]

yep, my process is to brush and scrape off big chunks of dirt and crud, then drop all the nylon into a jar of simple green, for at least a night. Then toothbrushes, pipe cleaners and some scubbing brings them up beautifully.

just use caution on metal parts, if you dunk them. steel, titanium, fiberglass, no problem. aluminum will get a dark haze or possiblly corrode depending on the alloy. so you can use it for scrubbing and washing immediately after, but not a dunk and soak. If it's anodized, just use dish detergent and water, no simple green.

after boiling the nylon, if you are not dyeing it, there will be pretty much no change. If you boil too long, it will eventually distort the parts, particularly the rear bulkhead, so keep the boil time short. 5 minutes in a rolling boil should be more than enough but keep and eye on it.

if you have any staining like rust or dye from sitting next to a dyed part, you can carefully scrape the surface with an exacto until the blemish is gone.

Interesting. So why boil the parts, as oppose to the peroxide treatment, or some of the other "white-ing" processes?

[trek]

There are fourm post that indicate boiling the nylon parts will bring back some flexiblity and make them less brittle. Not sure if this has been demonstrated as correct or not. I don't believe boiling is suppose to change the color at all. Some stuff I have read indicates the peroxide trick, while making everything look great, may possibly damage the parts and making them more brittle. Since this will be a runner, I'm not too terribly worried if the parts are bright white. (although it would be great to do if I knew for sure it wouldn't damage parts)

[jwscab]

yes, nylon absorbs moisture, so the thought is that boiling will give the parts a little more flexibility preventing possibly snapped parts, especially older ones that may be more brittle. I don't know that anyone has direct back to back testing but it would be interesting.

[Timmy2Tracks]

yes, nylon absorbs moisture, so the thought is that boiling will give the parts a little more flexibility preventing possibly snapped parts, especially older ones that may be more brittle. I don't know that anyone has direct back to back testing but it would be interesting.

You know, I knew that boiling parts will give them more flexibility. I remember that trick from way back. I had "restoration" on my mind, not "durability". I feel stupid... Ha!