Finally getting around to putting together the CE runner I've been hoarding parts for. Gonna stick with the original suspension setup and use B3 wheels. A lot of new parts, and nice used parts mix. Found some period correct Ti turnbuckles, Lunsford Ti shock mounts, and a few other odds and ends. Put together what I could so far while waiting on chassis to arrive. Somehow these never get boring to assemble.
Reg, yes a starting point would be good. I went ahead and built the shocks with #2 pistons all around, 30 front/25 rear, and the springs you see. 1.32 new rear shafts with 3 spacers each(thanks JK). Hopefully that'll get it close. Will be running a 10.5 BL with the stocker 81 tooth spur on a smallish track.
Do you use the B4 crush tubes when using the 3/16" rear axles? I tried, and they fit in there quite nice.
I use crush tubes and B4 CVD axle (not the bone) and the B4 flat spacer after the pin (nice flat surface for the wheel to sit against). But, I'm not using those hubs...you have to use a 1/2 X 3/16 flanged bearing or the whole assembly just falls out so I use 10T 0 deg rear hubs (with the T2/team truck 3* arm mounts).
I think that you might be a little light in the oil for the buggy overall as the short arms (compared to modern buggies) really react quickly, so I'd go up by 2.5 in the front oil and the rear (32.5/27.5) and go with a (3/2) piston front and rear. If the track is really tight with super nuts traction then you may want to lighten up a bit.
Cool. Yes traction is plenty from the start as most are using slicks in the first heats. I used the B4 crush tubes with the original hubs and a few shims to come out to this:
FRONT
25deg caster (way better turn in than the 30 on high bite)
32.5# front, 2 limiters
.71 shocks and stock CE tower upper and inside, outside lower
#2 pistons, Brown springs
2 deg toe in (for stability), -1/2 camber
2 washers under ballstud on steering arms (stock inline)
front ride height @ 23mm
1oz nose weight over front body mount hole
standard front wheelbase
MIDDLE
Chassis trimmed to 21mm
battery as far forward as allowed (right against servo) (Turnigy 5300/ large)
1/2 oz behind ESC on left side, 1/2 oz behind and 1/4 oz ahead of rec on right
REAR
3deg toe per side (T2) with stock antisquat
0deg 10t rear hubs
longest camberlink option
-1 camber
1.32 shocks/ 1.02 shaft, #1 piston (drilled out to .54), 30w oil, 3 standard (thin) limiters
Top inner (2nd from outside on worlds tower) mount, lower outside
Green rear springs 21mm ride height
Long wheelbase setting
Graphite trans brace, B4 wing mount, 2 washers between motorplate and rear chassis.
Tires vary depending on track conditions, I've found that the stickier the track and tire- the more the buggy needs droop, where the B4/TLR etc transfer weight into forward momentum the RC10 and it's stubby arms and camberlinks and swept front arms transfer weight vertically more, and once the chassis has settled you can dig in- until then it feels like its riding "on" the track instead of "in" the track-
it also handles agressive air way way way better like this too-
Also, this buggy does well being thrown into everywhere- but 100% brake is too much, there are too many changes to the rear geometry under braking to go more than 80-85% without rotating a bunch.
Oh, and 10.5 (boosted LRP SXX V2.2 w/LRP Stock Spec 10.5) at 81/21---81/19
Surprising to me, I tried to run the car limited out- low and hugged down on high bite, and found it tremendously skatey everywhere, where my B4.1 just developed more corner speeds the CE lost it-
you could also take a set of those cone washers and sand down the flat side. just a thought, those thin axel shims worry me on the wheel side, we've all done it but theres got to be a better way. i bet custom works has something that would fit.
Pretty close to that Reg. 25 blocks on the front. I do have the 1.32 shafts in the rear with 3 large downstops. Had new 1.32s so I used them. Any differences there over using the shorter 1.02 shafts?
jwscab wrote:fundamentally, no. the shock piston will just ride in a different spot in the shock body.
I think though in the case of the buggy with 1.32/1.32 you can slap the piston into the shock cap on uneven landings (side to side) I seem to remember having to add a bump stop between the bottom shaft and cup.
you could also take a set of those cone washers and sand down the flat side. just a thought, those thin axel shims worry me on the wheel side, we've all done it but theres got to be a better way. i bet custom works has something that would fit.
0 shims and just a touch of wiggle room. I did have to remove the crush tube which was just pushing the bearing just enough to keep the solid pin from sliding into the axle. Should be a bit better.
Had a couple builds that are in progress, but it always seems that they turn out too nice to run, and can't seem to find interest in running an old junker. So what better way to break in some NIP parts along with a few other nice ones scattered in...
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Bob, run standard front axles with the B4 wheels. The arms were machined to the proper length without having to add the wide axles.
Picked up this RC10 on Ebay recently. I had an RPM RC10 a while back and I sold it like a fool. This one is better though because it has the wiley and elusive RPM 2.65 trans. So, I think a decked out RPM runner is in order. Might even put the tall...
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thats the same thing i wondered.........i'm curious to see what it looks like
well since my black and gold buggy project is winding down , and I just finished sorting my latest haul
think its time to tackle the rc10 t form this lot
I already have a nice all white part 10t shelf queen with a rpm trans so this guy is...
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Nice color on the tub!
yea I was pretty happy when I saw that they had the spray on bed liner in colors
ive used the black before and its great
and this blue is pretty close to the old blue chassis associated used to sell
Got this from a good mate. It started life as a Ferrari on road racer. A Optima Mid Custom chassis that Kyosho slapped on a nice shell with the cool 5 spoke star chrome wheels. My mate converted it to...
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Spent the last couple days on this now.
I installed a new digital servo, Brushless speedie with a 8.5 sensored motor.
The gearing is around the right mark. The platinum shocks aren't that good and too stiff . The rear springs are modded Losi...
While working my effort to reduce my inventory, I have also tried to work in some time to finish off a few long standing projects. This one is particular was started about a 1.5 year ago, just before I moved. Since then, I acquired, well almost the...
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i think i use some 3/16 wheel shims like the ones that come with cvd kits. i bought a ton of these when bolink sold out on ebay a few years ago they really came in handy.
Fellas,I just about finished this one , still needs a few goodies but she's close. A chassis drilled for Stealth,RPM Rear bulkhead w/ a-arms,and up-rights,wide front arms,steering bell-cranks,and a set of ..... yup RPM white ball-cups.Lastly the...
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Sorry Sharkman, I don't have either type, lol. I'm just basing my reference off of seeing them on ebay (both types) and the bearing types on scr8p's and hoopty's rpm 10s.
Btw, nice car! I noticed that you have one of those neoprene gaskets on it...