LAZER ZX / ZXR Tub Chassis being re-released

[Welshy40]

The top looks good. The base however seems to have the usual FL lumpiness and creases. Fine for a basher but not ideal if you want a display shelfer. I think this is because they use a bag or cloth to make the "mould" on one side.

I believe they may be able to do a shiney on both sides for a display. The one your looking at however is a proto of the mold thats just been made and is a testbed for a few things that I have had on my mind for several years so am not too fussed at the moment on how it looks so long as the holes are in the right place and the bodyshell fits fine. It does look superb though

[DennisM]

What´s the main reasons for putting a carbon tub under a full radio deck supported vehicle?
I know it looks nice, but that cant be the only reason?

To protect the esc and servo as that is why I designed it in the first place, as luck would have it I also sorted out flex, plus made the bodyshell last far longer and also meaning that no undertray replacement was needed either. It can handle some serious impacts as I run mine almost hitting the deck and can take it really well.

Respect!
Thanks for the information

[Welshy40]

Update with chassis fitted. I made an error on the lipo side wall holder so not yet fitted with my brass plates etc etc. Still its almost ready.

Also I will be making an update within two weeks on the rear gearbox tensioner design and its almost done. I've made it and needs one more adjustment and then will be ready to purchase.

[wydraz]

That takes me back looks great Welshy!

Dan

[Welshy40]

Thanks Dan.

Ok, well Im happy with the tub so is now available to buy. You will need to do a couple of things first before buying from Fibrelyte.

1. Choose your chassis design from the designs that are already on the website. Or go for a modded design and you can opt for no cell holes and adding a lipo tray which ive already designed etc etc and the list goes on but be warned get it correct before ordering as once you have decided on what you want and something isnt correct but was cut to your specification then the fault lies with you.

2. Decide on the sidewall height, me I think 20mm is high enough but am unsure on the height used on ComCom and Wasp chassis when they were sold so if there is a preference find out first, otherwise 20mm is perfect as per my recent pictures.

3. Round off the end side walls at the rear as this aides in taking the gearcover off.

4. Choose the weave you want, I tried the same weave asthe top deck and shock towers to get a matching effect.

5. If you require the bottom of the chassis to be as shiney as the inner then you will need to do this yourself as its not cost effective for Fibrelyte to do, so you will need some fine sand paper and time but have been advised dont over do it.

Im racing at Maritime in two weeks time so will update with all issues and what was done and hope to put in a good result with it.

Good racing

[Delorean]

Wow welshy! Looks great. What is that smokin blue motor plate on your car?

Thanks

[Welshy40]

A one off job and has been designed to fit my carbon fibre gearbox

[Hcp22]

What happened with this project?

[Welshy40]

Ok update. Pics to follow. Ive fitted trf511 brass plates made by rudebitz and some are cut in half as i need that to better balance for jumps, brass cell hole plates and a brass plate on top.

Ive so far done a major indoor event series and after a lot of updates ive gone from 3 laps off the pace in the first race to being 1.2 seconds a lap off the pace of the top two in the third race event.

Last race i was on an A final pace until my proto layshaft had a problem but hey thats what testing is about and im almost there. Chassis has saved the day on a couple of occassions as i had some major impacts and broke my top deck but the chassis is in great condition.

Front gearbox design is not up to the job as it vibrates the screws lose evan though threadlocks used. Ive gone back to the original gearbox which is faultless.

[Welshy40]

Ok here are the pictures.

Ive changed the design of the front tower, top deck, ive had to take out the B4 slipper as I killed the proto layshaft so am awaiting a new one. Cars well balanced and jumps well.

I cant get the link but if you go to u tube and type in maritime raceway January 2014 you can see my first round race which I admit I drove it badly but never the less was 11th overall in the round with that and the next round was fault free and all lap times were identical and put me I believe 7th in that round which put me 9th overall. Still I have a few more things to do to get it right and am not there quite yet.

[DennisM]

It is a mean buggy
And I think it´s cool that You actually drive it - Kudos for that.
Crazy about that dragon.

[Welshy40]

DennisM

Thanks

The new cars i believe are not as good, this design is much better than newer cars and have gone out and proved it, yes taken a few proto designs from the 93 zxs and modifed the design to fit into my zx chassis and it goes very well. Have you watched the video as it will show how balanced it looks on the jumps but apologise for driving like a newbie, i had a few drinks the night before. I admit i have one issue on the chassis design which im rectifying to give a bit more rear end droop but once done is almost there.

[HKS_TRD]

James

Have you used the CF motor plate at all like the one Stephen made me?

If you run the finned motor plate how do you screw the diff poles on because both the motor plate and the diff poles have a thread on them, do you tighten the screw into the motor plate first then screw the diff pole onto that using a nut and screw on the other end of the pole as a locknut to lever it tight then take that out to put the screw in that goes through the motor plate?

[Welshy40]

James

Have you used the CF motor plate at all like the one Stephen made me?

If you run the finned motor plate how do you screw the diff poles on because both the motor plate and the diff poles have a thread on them, do you tighten the screw into the motor plate first then screw the diff pole onto that using a nut and screw on the other end of the pole as a locknut to lever it tight then take that out to put the screw in that goes through the motor plate?

Dan,

Motor plates one of a kind and has countersunk holes with no thread so i can use countersunk screws to attach to the LA112 poles so avoiding contact with the back of the slipper plate and means i can have that sitting closer to the motor plate. Ive used the cf plate, the one i designed with Stephens help, mines got countersunk holes as well but as my motors get hot i prefer the metal ones as the heat dissapates through the one off rear top deck mount (its top deck mounts are 3mm higher so i can use 5600 lipos)