#7035 Team truck (NIB) build

[GodSpeed]

Nice. And I clicked on your collection link....quite the bunch of cars you have.

[marlo]

Rather than suffer the horrors of cutting into a sealed kit bag that does not need to be opened, I opted for another solution. Preferring parts on spruces (where applicable), spring cups/retainers were in my NIP stock as a loose set of correct gold rear springs/NIP front springs and not needing shock oil. A sealed kit bag was saved.

[Charlie don't surf]

It's hard to do, knowing how many years they've stayed sealed and untouched!

[DennisM]

Oh, this makes me a little bit envious
Looking forward to the next set of pictures.

[RC10th]

It's hard to do, knowing how many years they've stayed sealed and untouched!

Somebody has to pop the cherry at some point.

[shoman24v]

Did the parts yellow?

[RC10th]

Did the parts yellow?

I've got a 7001 kit NIB and the plastic didn't seem to yellow. I think three things turn white nylon yellow, not all at once but any of the three can do it.

1.) Sunlight
2.) Heat
3.) Oxygen

This is just from my experience and I'd be keen to hear Marlo's response.

[marlo]

Did the parts yellow?

I've got a 7001 kit NIB and the plastic didn't seem to yellow. I think three things turn white nylon yellow, not all at once but any of the three can do it.

1.) Sunlight
2.) Heat
3.) Oxygen

This is just from my experience and I'd be keen to hear Marlo's response.

I agree with you RJ, cigarette smoke would also be another yellowing agent.
This kit has white - off white nylon / comp. parts. I find different parts yellow faster then others. More prone to yellowing are rear bulk heads, arms, tranny cases, etc...
While servo savers, ball cups, front bulk heads (10T's) yellow at a much slower rate... not sure why.
At least that's what I find, but I'm sure all white parts would yellow in time. Not too long ago I craved pure white parts, however, these days I'm more keen on an original, more natural white, as "Arctic white" is just way to bright.

[Charlie don't surf]

Those parts look exactly as they should to me. The early 7001 tended to be slightly more bone colored than the latter for sure...and if you ever sourced later 3 piece wheels for the T and put them on an early truck you can really really see the difference. Marlo is in 'correct over spray and grease pencil marks' mode now. And I like it. There are a few of us that are like that, which is becoming rarer, which is fine. But knowing things like this (or say some of the discoveries that RC10resto has made with no stamp cars) mean being able to spot genuine gems some times

[Lonestar]

Oooooh what an awesome thread thanks for sharing that cherry-popping with us!

About yellowing parts - all I can say is you guys please don't try to peroxyde rear 10T body mounts... when I did that to mine they turned slimey-green and they weren't RPM parts...

Paul

[kineqp]

Going to be a great looking truck when done, Kudo's on the build and thanks for sharing, I'm looking at your truck and seeing a new project on the horizon now.

[marlo]

A little more work on it this weekend. 3* mounts, with rear suspension installed.

[shoman24v]

Looking great!

[marlo]

0* hub's installed.

[Vale]

Awesome build Marlon!

it is very impressive that you are paying attention to every little detail.