RC10T - BNIB Build

[Lavigna]

The soak has begun!

The hardest part will be keeping my 4 year old daughter from taking parts or turning it over, lol.

Whitening the parts has delayed my build, but I think it will be worth it to have a real crisp, clean looking end result. Thanks again for all the help guys!

[Lavigna]

One more question for anyone: What is the best product to use on vintage tires to keep them looking shiny, but also preserve them? I know some use armor all, but some say it actually dries and cracks the rubber? There must be a better choice. Thanks.

[uniquenamehere]

Looking like a really great build... nice score.

For tires, I'd check out Aerospace 303... it's got a UV protection. I use this extensively on my 1:1 fun car.

[RC10th]

Please please please make sure you thoroughly wash the parts afterwards otherwise you will get bad anodizing fade under the peroxided parts.

I would almost recommend boiling the parts in clean water for 7 -10 minutes afterwards to open the pores in the nylon allowing peroxide to escape, followed by dropping in clean boiling water from the kettle and allowing to cool naturally.

[vintageguy]

Use the SC1 on the tires. I have 4 pair that I sprayed down nearly 3yrs ago (light coat every 7-8mo) and they are soft & shiny.

[Lavigna]

Please please please make sure you thoroughly wash the parts afterwards otherwise you will get bad anodizing fade under the peroxided parts.

I would almost recommend boiling the parts in clean water for 7 -10 minutes afterwards to open the pores in the nylon allowing peroxide to escape, followed by dropping in clean boiling water from the kettle and allowing to cool naturally.

I will definitely do this. I want to make sure I don't ruin these parts. The boiling water is ok on the plastic? I assume so, but it seems strange to boil plastics.

Thanks for all the help.

[vintageguy]

Boiling them is fine. That was a trick we did in the old days (occasionally still do). It will soften the plastics so they are not as brittle.

[Lavigna]

I purchased a vintage Novak ESC on ebay. I got it quite cheap, and am currently cleaning it up and possibly changing out some wires. Am am happy with how well it cleaned up. It should hopefully pass for new once I am done with it.

I have a brand new vintage Novak T1X, as posed above, but I don't think I want to use that on this build. It has a larger physical footprint, and may not layout as nice in the chassis.

Can anyone tell me what model Novak receiver would have been used in 1991-1994 era? I have a couple vintage Novak receivers, but am not sure if it is from that time period. Thanks.

[Lavigna]

Finished cleaning the Novak ESC. I'm thinking I will recover/change the 4 power/motor wires once I get further along in the build. I am thinking of going all black wires, for a very clean look. Is it considered a faux pas to change the wire colors on a vintage build? I do this with all my modern cars and trucks. However, I was also thinking of maybe going with something crazy early 90's color style like purple, pink, or something. Not sure yet.

I am still trying to decide how to paint the body. My RC10T rebuild I did in box art. However, it was a reproduction body, and the paint is not exactly true to the original. It was painted by that guy on ebay (gonracing-rc) who does nice work, but again, the design was not exact to the box art.

Since this body and decals are original, I thought it may be good to have a quality painter give it a true box art paint job. But, I also really want to do a colorful early 90's style as well, which would tie in well with the vintage electronics. The body that member LONESTAR had painted is absolutely amazing (see below). It is my favorite RC body art.

Decisions, decisions....

[TRX-1-3]

That paint IS badazz.

[vintageguy]

I like the look of "box art" 10T's but it seems to be what 90% of the guys are doing. If it were a poll my vote would be for a 90's style paint scheme.

[Ronbo]

I like the look of "box art" 10T's but it seems to be what 90% of the guys are doing. If it were a poll my vote would be for a 90's style paint scheme.

Same here, I've been pondering what scheme to do on my 10T as well. I had the team truck scheme when I raced in the 90's, but I did modify it a bit. Same with my buggy schemes, they were the Team Car colors. Better pictures of the 90's top racers would help I think.

[RC10th]

I vote a box art paint job on the original body and a 90's scheme on the "new" Associated Body or TBG copy.



Whoa..... I didn't even recognise my own name as it turned blue

[slotcarrod]

Your original esc wires look to be in good condition and long enough to hard wire to the motor. I would keep the oem wires! An Novak NER-2X or NER-3s would be correct for this build.

[nagreend]

Boiling them is fine. That was a trick we did in the old days (occasionally still do). It will soften the plastics so they are not as brittle.

Would you recommend boiling all older plastic parts on a runner? Any plastic that shouldn't be boiled?