Servos, Hitec vs. Savox.

[LTO_Dave]

I've ran both in my crawlers an haven't had issues with either brand. I Plasti-dipped a few Hitec HS-645MG's and had them submerged in mud and water. I have a waterproof metal-gear Savox in my Wraith that is a bit noisy but fast and powerful.

The glitch-buster thing also depends on your radio equipment. Some Spektrum gear requires one with other brands of servos. I tried to run a Solar servo with a DSM Spektrum receiver and it glitched like crazy. I added a Spektrum glitch buster and it worked fine.

[yellowdatsun]

The glitch buster thing, makes me think that Someone at Savox didn't do their homework, and the result was sending the customer a part that could *fail*. AHaving tio add a glitchbuster means there's an inherant problem with the product. People say that the fix is cheap and easy, but I don't want to have to fix a brand new servo. That should just be a non-issue, or at the very least, they should label what receivers their products can work with *without* a capacitor fix.

With Hitec, you just plug it in, any of them, and they work. Never once have I had an issue that needed an outside fix like that.

But then again, I'm not competitively racing, and NEED that extra transit time and torque to win an event. For the pro racers, I'm sure the glitch-buster is fine because it helps deliver the very best in transit and torque numbers.

[jwscab]

part of the issue is the insane torque that is produced on some of these servos. the thin servo wire creates a choke point for current. having the glitch buster just smooths the voltage by supplying extra current local to the servo/receiver. You could do the same kinda thing with a big old cap on the receiver or even locally at the servo, it wouldn't hurt in both places. If you were really good with wiring, you could run a fatter wire to the servo directly from the battery.

[yellowdatsun]

Yeh, but again, it's fixing a problem on a brand new out-of-the-box product, you just shouldn't have to do that. My buddy did, and he's happy with it. He went the capacitor route because he was having issues. He's fine with it, I'm less happy with the idea. I dunno, we'll see next time I need a servo. Maybe I could just fine one that doesn't generate the forces needed for the capacitor. On the easy scale, I'd bet the cheaper ones don't generate the higher speeds and torque, and those would be in my price range anyways, so I could always start there. I just can't wrap my mind around spending $80 for a servo. Call me cheap, or whatever, but that just seems like a ton of money for a steering servo.

[jwscab]

yeah, it is a problem, but not a clear solution other than to NOT make a servo with so much power. The connectors it was designed with are only good for so many insertion cycles and current handling, so it is what it is. They should sell a servo with a set of power wires you tie into a batter connector, like they did on the FET boosted units of yesteryear.

[klavy69]

$80 for a servo. seems like a ton of money for a steering servo.

did you ever run 1/10 scale nitro? even in the 90s if you wanted your wheels to turn you needed to spend some cash to get a servo with the grunt to keep them pointed where you wanted them to. Don't get me wrong...I cringed everytime I needed a steering servo

Todd

[yellowdatsun]

Spoke to a racer that works at the hobby shop at the track, and he has always run Savox servos, he says he doesn't run a capacitor thingy, nor has he ever needed to.

Not sure if that's good or bad, since the good part is he never has a glitch issue, but the bad part is that a lot of others have had the issue, making it harder to pin down which ones need it. He races competitively, so I assume he wants a servo with high torque and speed, so his *should* be failing under the logic presented on this thread.

[Chewbacca]

Spoke to a racer that works at the hobby shop at the track, and he has always run Savox servos, he says he doesn't run a capacitor thingy, nor has he ever needed to.

Not sure if that's good or bad, since the good part is he never has a glitch issue, but the bad part is that a lot of others have had the issue, making it harder to pin down which ones need it. He races competitively, so I assume he wants a servo with high torque and speed, so his *should* be failing under the logic presented on this thread.

Not quite,

if that racer also runs high end radio and esc, (which he probably does since he#s racing) he is most likely getting enough AMPs to the servo. That way no glitch buster is needed.

I hope that makes sense

[Tamlok]

I have a Savox with the titanium gears. Was a forced buy as the one in my car broke at the track and I needed a replacement. Speaking to a few guys, they have never had an issue with the Savox. I have to say it is a nice servo. Worth the price? Time will tell I guess. If I wasn't in the pinch, I probably would not have bought it. I have an Associated XP, Tactic, and Hitec in various buggies/trucks, not the fastest or most torque, but they get the job done for about a 1/3 of the price. This is a pretty good resource.
http://www.servodatabase.com/

[yellowdatsun]

For what it's worth I also had a Savox TG servo, and broke the gears on a 1/10 buggy. Bad luck, bad hit, I dunno. Savox replaced it under warranty though.

[RC10th]

I've never had any problems with Hitec servos.

Savox servos in my opinion are power hungry and can cause brown outs in some radios requiring a glitch buster/power cap for the receiver. This leads me to believe they aren't as efficient as higher end servos.

In saying that I have a $140 JR .06sec servo that doesn't glitch a Spektrum receiver.

[RC104ever]

I run the Savox low profile servos in all my cars and they work beautifully. Very fast and no glitching at all. I'm using both Spektrum stuff and the el cheapo Fly Sky stuff. Neither radio has had any issues. Truth be told, the Fly Sky seems to have better range the the Spektrum stuff and I may switch everything over.

[sandbar782]

Application dictates requirements and in some cases warrants the extra expense. For running in the yard, I went with an old HITEC HS-425BB. These have been around forever, are cost effective, low draw, and have plenty of speed and torque for my application. Racing competitively would likely dictate something else.