My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[joey_zrl]

You're welcome bro. I was worried about snapping the front battery cup when I first tried to install my SMC lipo, but the plastic is so flexible that it gives up just enough tolerance to get the battery to slide in. I think Gens Ace and Turnigy Nano lipos will maybe fit better, but I haven't tried either of those brands yet.

On the shocks, the stock springs are pretty soft, but ae sells a variety pack of springs in different tension rates.

As for the slipper, I have found that I had to readjust mine several times until it was fully broken in. After the third run or so, my slipper setting started to hold up well. Also, steep changes in temperature will throw your slipper setting off, as well as different types of terrain like dirt, clay, or carpet. I now realize that setting the slipper is a priority in the preparation of fine tuning the car, and it's best to do it for every run especially if you're racing.

Even more important is setting up and breaking in the ball differential. Doing so, will give your diff a long and healthy life. Here's a link that will help you with that task:
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/How2ProperlyBuildandBreak-InaBallDifferentialandSlipperClutch/

Yes, I do believe HD or Lowe's should carry de-soldering braid, or something similar.

Your build is looking great, and it's coming along very nicely! Again, good job!

[howaboutme]

Thanks again.

Yeah, I have that site bookmarked to look at after I am "done".

I found some of the de-soldering on home depots site so will probably get some there. I looked at the left solder joint on the motor and I think it has good coverage. It just doesn't look good. From the previous picture you can see those huge bullets for the battery. I do want to redo those so I can fit heat shrinks on the joint even though I've seen many people not use them.

I'll probably grab a set of those springs to play with as well. I do have different shock oil and have 40 in there now, which is why it surprised me with it's unresponsiveness...Could be me though as I have nothing to compare it to.

Now....what to do w/ the body..The last step.

[joey_zrl]

I think most people use 30w to 35w oil on the front with medium springs, and 20w to 27.5w on the rear with soft springs. 40w is thicker, so you're not going to get a lot of quick rebound with a thicker fluid.

I'm going to try to get around to painting my Detonator Worlds body in Cliff Lett's Moo theme next weekend. If you have any questions about painting, I'd be glad to help.

I think using shrink wrap on the bullets is a good idea, as we have an aluminum chassis that's a great conductor.

[howaboutme]

Well..thanks for reminding me that higher the oil weight means less responsiveness. For some reason, I thought the opposite. What did everyone do w/o the internet?

I think I've settled on using 2 colors and doing the windows as best as I can. My daughter loves the yellow wheels and so do I. Does anyone know what equivalent color it is? I know Camel Yellow is roughly the classic box art color but I'm looking for the yellow wheels. If I can find a comparable, I think that'll be one of the colors. I may skip stripes of any kind as those intimidate me. Instead, I am going to separate the colors into a composition based on the contours and ridges of the body....

I have a relatively thin Tamiya masking tape. What do people use to cover larger portions of the body? I've heard of liquid tape for complex patterns.

Thanks!

[joey_zrl]

With painting...my advice is to start with what you are comfortable with. I think doing a two-color faded into the contours is a great idea. I've been wanting to try that myself. I have actually seen a few bodies that looked really sweet with that kind of paint job.

Camel yellow has a tint of orange in my eye. I used Createx florescent yellow which is a very close match.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/CRE5405-2Z.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAt9vEBRDQmPSow-q5gs8BEiQAaWSEDoWdfhFPKzWOgjtGwnypgVUPN4kgBxpjfyJB6i30u_AaAhiS8P8HAQ#.WJfgWFUrLIU

If you're going to use a rattle can, Tamiya Florescent Yellow would be a good choice.
https://www.rcplanet.com/TAM_Ps_27_Flrescent_Yellow_Paint_p/tam86027.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQiAt9vEBRDQmPSow-q5gs8BEiQAaWSEDo5vf1n3QzzS7uCthUURif-SAkXFSvb4B0ySmoTtB4oaAvCb8P8HAQ

Tamiya thin masking tape actually works pretty good on straight lines. You can practice on some scrap pieces of lexan until you get the hang of it. Just remember....when you lay your tape down....the first coat needs to be REALLY thin around the edges of the tape. With a thin initial first coat, it dries quicker and seals the edges around the tape. Then you can lay on a slightly thicker second and third coat, with a warm hair dryer blast between each coat.

After your base colors dry, you can back them with white to bring out the richness of the colors, as it will make them brighter. Or you can back them with black for a darker tint. But stick with white on the florescent yellow to keep the hue light like the wheels. Just a few pointers for you there. Good luck on the body. I'm sure you will do well.

[OUTLAWD]

If you're going to use a rattle can, Tamiya Florescent Yellow would be a good choice.
https://www.rcplanet.com/TAM_Ps_27_Flrescent_Yellow_Paint_p/tam86027.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQiAt9vEBRDQmPSow-q5gs8BEiQAaWSEDo5vf1n3QzzS7uCthUURif-SAkXFSvb4B0ySmoTtB4oaAvCb8P8HAQ

I second this, the Tamiya rattle can is a pretty good match for the AE yellow wheels. As joey mentioned, you must back with white, and do the dark colors first (opposite as you would a "normal" paint job)

Tamiya yellow below

[howaboutme]

Thanks all!

I picked up a can of PS-27, the fluorescent yellow as well as PS-28, fluorescent green and the white for the backing today. I agree that it's the closest so will give it a shot. Now time to figure out how to put those 2 colors together....Stay tuned!

[howaboutme]

Taped up! This is for the green color, which I guess is slightly darker than the yellow...



I went a bit beyond my original plan (in terms of simplicity) but felt comfortable with the taping. I may do some tweaks before the final. Fun so far!

What do people do for the netting? Just hand paint w/ PS paint?

[joey_zrl]

Looking good bro. I like the way you have it masked off. Just remember to go light on the first couple of coats to get smooth and even paint coverage. It also helps to "grab a corner" with an x-acto when you go to pull the mask. You might have to pick at it a little to get it raised off of the surface enough to grab it, but once you do get it, a pair of tweezers will help tremendously. Pull it slowly, and in line with the direction of the paint lines. I'm looking forward to seeing your completed build!

[howaboutme]

Thanks Joey....This build has been so long and drawn out but I'm finally there. I finished the painting today and I have to be honest, I don't like it and feel a bit deflated because of it. I don't like the color combination nor do I like how it looks with the pattern I chose. I think I'll eventually need to have better direction of the look of the body beforehand but for this case, I just wanted to get it done. Like I said previous, I think I'll eventually get another fresh body and do a better job. All I want to do is take this car out and run it. For that, I am happy I've come to that. I've learned a lot in the process and can't wait to learn about tuning and running technique. There's still much to do, play with the ESC, re-solder the newbie connections, learning about camber, caster, etc.... I do appreciate everyone's help in the process! Not done by any means.

Here it is post paint and happy to have gotten close to the wheel color. I'll need decals to help liven the body a bit, I think (or hope).



Edit: Looking at the decals bag and realized AE included window masks! Doh!

[howaboutme]

Better...slightly.

[klavy69]

besides your wing wire being backwords it looks just fine. If you feel its a little blah yet you can always do a little more stickering/decals on the outside of it...

Todd

[howaboutme]

besides your wing wire being backwords it looks just fine. If you feel its a little blah yet you can always do a little more stickering/decals on the outside of it...

Todd

Ah shoot! Thank you for catching that.....Will fix.

[joey_zrl]

Man that's a great first effort at painting a body. That's the hardest part (for me anyway) about building these kits. My first paintjob was solid white, and it was painted with regular spray paint from walmart, lol. After a while, the paint chipped off and it looked like crap. But I had fun with it.

Great job on the build bro. You went through a lot of crooks and bends with getting the correct parts, but it turned out quite well.

[howaboutme]

Thanks Joey!

I looked at the car again tonight and the color scheme has grown on me....I need to concentrate more on the craftsmanship and technique.

I am indeed happy to have gotten to this point. Coming from easy to ready Tamiya instructions to this was a huge step and a great learning curve. Looking forward to progressing further!

Will continue to update with whatever I've done w/ the car.